Kinda fixed, but confused as to how???

Had intermittent starter problem for several months. Until yesterday, turning the key again would make it crank. Last night, got the dreaded one click. Voltage tested okay, put remote starter switch on it and it cranked. Showed no juice from the wire that clips onto the solenoid. Starter relay tested okay with and without voltage. Was about to delve into troubleshooting neutral safety switch and ignition switch, but opted to use remote starter switch to bypass the relay, jumping "5" to "3". It cranked! Turned ignition on, tested again and it started. Took remote starter switch off, put relay back in, and it cranks and starts just fine.

Any clue? I'd rather fix the problem as permanently as possible. TIA!

 

I had this problem and it turned out to be a combination of 4 problems: bad ignition switch, blown diode in alternator, bad 80 amp alternator fuse in the under hood fuse box, and a short in the wire harness from ignition switch to fuse box. A relatively easy bunch of stuff, but they were all intermittent and PITA to figure out the first time. Most of the stuff on mine was caused by a shitty Clifford alarm that the dealer had installed in 1999 when the truck was new. I ripped out the alarm, replaced all the bad parts and put in an unmolested dash harness from another truck. I also permanently bypassed the ignition key switch with a momentary push button ( also theft deterrent).

 

Thanks, Gary! Sounds like a lot of work. I had considered putting in a push button toggle and bypassing the ignition switch. I replaced all the serpentine belts a few weeks ago, but didn't bother to check the alternator output, and the battery is charging okay. It held 11V on cranking.

I was thinking ignition switch, but I don't see how "tickling" the circuit would have corrected an issue upstream, so to speak.

 

I didn't either, but it being intermittent was what led me to look at the harness, which was toast.

 

When you have worn (or misaligned) starter contacts sometimes just a slight increase in voltage to the starter solenoid can make the difference between just a click and cranking. Maybe fiddling with things gave a better electrical contact. I'd bet the problem will return soon.

 

When I was a wrench at the dealership the F & I guys were selling alot of Clifford alarms, the touchpad type, I refused to install them due to the bs scotch locks that came with the kit... always always a problem with them.

 

Thanks for the additional responses! DrZ, I fear you are correct in assuming the problem will return. I was thinking the solenoid contacts, too. M quandry is whether to replace the whole starter, or to just replace the contacts and plunger. The truck has 300K miles on it.

Never had any alarms on this truck. Can't say there are no scotch locks anywhere, though.

 

A new rebuilt starter may not be as reliable as one you rebuild yourself. I new one from Toyota or Denso probably would be but it would cost more.

If you do replace the contacts you need to be sure the contacts are still sitting flat after you tighten the bolt/nut that holds them. And if you overtighten the nut holding the big wire to the starter it can rotate the (internal) contact slightly causing the two contacts to be uneven and still cause the click/no start problem.

 

I spent the money and bought a rebuilt from Toyota !!!

The core charge was really cheap and not worth the hassle of sending my old one back

This gives me the option of rebuilding mine when time permits

 

I just ordered a starter. I'll be happier knowing it's more than "kinda fixed"!

Thank you all for your input!!!

 

I hate to be a pest, but something still doesn't feel right about the problem being the starter. Doesn't jumping the relay's 5 (hot) to 3 bypass some interlock stuff?

 

When you jump pins 3and 5 your just jumping the contacts .In the relay .

You have 300,000 miles I say maybe the relay contacts might be a little worn so the voltage is a tad low add the worn solenoid contacts you get a random failure to crank

Add the positive and Negative cables to the mix

Every thing lowers the voltage just a bit more

The relay coil is energized though either the clutch safety switch or neutral safety switch if what you have has failed .

The starter relay contacts will not close and you get nothing no clicks no matter how often you cycle the ignition switch.

Quite simple to look at the solenoid contacts once you remove the starter .

If you were close I would be glad to help

 

The best way I know to test the starter is to unplug the single prong connector that leads to the exciter on the starter ( should be a 12 or 14 gauge wire) and while in neutral and with the parking brake on; take a length of similar gauge wire and make a connection between the battery positive and the exciter terminal. You will probably have to temporarily remove the driver side splash panel between the frame and the body to do this. If it still clicks instead of turning the starter motor, it’s the contacts. If it does turn over and start; it’s something with the ignition switch, wiring, battery connections, bad relay, etc.

 

That's not definitive proof. Sometimes when the contacts are going bad a little extra voltage will give the solenoid enough extra power to pull the plunger in and make a better connection with the contacts. Bypassing the relay, neutral start switch and wiring might buy you 0.2+ volts and allow the starter to crank, or getting a jump start from a running engine at 14 volts will allow it to crank.

I'd say feel the side of the starter as someone turns the key. If you feel the plunger getting pulled in, but still no crank then it's worth removing the starter to inspect the contacts.

 

300,000 miles it might be time for a fresh starter

Mine went about 225,000 miles till the contacts were shot