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Knock sensor

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Colton94, Aug 14, 2016.

  1. Aug 14, 2016 at 6:05 PM
    #1
    Colton94

    Colton94 [OP] Member

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    Colton
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    1997 Toyota Tacoma
    I just replaced both knock sensors in my 1997 Tacoma, had one bad (bank 1) so went ahead and replaced both. Got it back together and now it's high idling and the timep gauge ain't working. Help....
     
  2. Aug 15, 2016 at 6:19 AM
    #2
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 800,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    1st make sure ALL the vacuum hose are on tight and no vacuum leaks, And that you connected them back to the same place.
    Did you by chance try cleaning the throttle body ? Or mess with the butterfly.
    When I did my knock sensors I cleaned the throttle body, that was a mistake for me, after that
    the engine had a high idle 1200 rpms. My throttle body was worn and the carbon buildup
    was filling in the worn gap by the butterfly and the housing. Now that I cleaned it I had a larger gap
    and a high idle because of that. I had to replace the throttle body and then everything was ok.
    Temp guage has to be a wiring issue I would think
    Disconnect the battery for a few hours, not minutes
     
  3. Aug 15, 2016 at 7:21 AM
    #3
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Is the temp gauge wiring by one of the knock sensors? Or its wiring?
     
  4. Aug 15, 2016 at 7:32 AM
    #4
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2013
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    Messages:
    10,399
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
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    Denver
    Vehicle:
    97 reg cab, v6 5sp 300hp supercharged, Methonal Injection, 800,001 plus miles, Original Owner
    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is located on the front of the intake manifold, passenger side of the upper radiator hose, and just behind the cover that hides your timing. It is a 19mm socket and to get it out you should drain about a gallon of coolant using the petcock on the passenger side of the radiator, disconnect the upper radiator hose and remove the upper timing cover. This is a 2 wire sensor.


    The water temperature sensor is just for the gauge and it is located on the back of the intake under all that crap. If your gauge is working then this sensor works and there is no need to get down to it. If you do have to get down to it you either have to be really squirrely or you need to take the upper and lower plenum off to succcessfully get a socket on it. This is a 1 wire "sensor". All this does is provide a ground for your temperature gauge on the dash

    You probably didn't reconnect one of the wires or both
     
  5. Aug 15, 2016 at 11:02 AM
    #5
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Solid, detailed info. As specific as you can get there :thumbsup:
     

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