Lag bolt in tire

Patches work better than plugs. Should cost around $20 for a tire place to pull the the tire off, patch it and remount it.

 

I picked up a spark plug once, Tire Kingdom patched the inside and I never had a problem. That bolt should be no problem with a patch, or a plug or two, just use rubber cement with the plugs.

 

Where the bolt is located it’s fixable. Would I use a plug? No, id have a plug patch done. If done correctly it should last as long as the tire

 

Lol

 

They make a plug patch. It’s basically a patch with a plug on the back of it. It installs from the inside like a patch and the plug part pulls to the outside. I’ve used them on motorcycle tires without any problems.

 

I meant I don't think there is a significant risk of the tire blowing at that speed. The belts in that tire should have no problem at all holding the tire together at those speeds, even if one or two of the belts was cut by the bolt.

He brings up a good point, though. I'd for sure put that tire in the rear, or better yet, use it as a spare.

 

That is a completely false statement, a tubeless tire can and will blowout. Here is the example. He plugs the tire, he’s driving down the highway at speed, the tire looses enough to still drive but the sidewalls actually at this pint due to low pressure overheat and breakdown, two things happen the tire will literally shred apart and you have time to pull over or the sidewalk will blowout at speed. Having worked on tires I’ve seen many examples of both.

 

Big hole. At Firestone we went by the Rubber Manufacturers guidelines for repair in terms of size of hole, angle, and distance to sidewall.
You should ONLY use a patch plug on that (if it is repairable). Do not use only a plug or only a patch.

Did you drive on it flat? If so you probably compromised the sidewall and when you demount the tire there will be a hand full of rubber from the sidewall disintegrating.

 

Too young to remember the Ford Explorer/Firestone debacle huh? Might want to read up on what you're saying before, you know, publicly jamming your foot in your mouth.

 

^^^This 1,000 times. A plug/patch, applied from the inside while the tire is dismounted is the best way to repair it.

https://products.techtirerepairs.com/tire-repair-materials/one-piece-stem-repairs/

 

This was caused by belt separation, no puncture. In the rear, or as a spare is the best advice yet.

 

Why take the chance?
Never seen a wadded up fender from a blowout?
Trying to save that $150 tire mite cost you thousands.
Dont be a cheap ass.

 

I had a similar situation happen to me on a road trip from Nebraska to Oregon two summers ago. I had just gotten off an old dirt road and I heard a ticking sound, and low and behold I had a 10mm bolt in my tire. It ended up seperating the plys of the tire. Total loss. You could "fix" it to save a couple bucks but itll blow as soon as your in the middle of no where

 

@ToyotaJim , I had this exact same thing happen on my 1977 Jimmy, BFG tire. I managed to limp home before it went completely flat. Believe it or not, I used about 4 plugs patching the tire, and it held. I drove on it for 2 or 3 years before I had to replace them. It didn't leak all that bad, a few psi every couple of weeks. You might give it a try.

 

If you say I am wrong in my statement so be it I stand corrected.

But being told that by my tire dealer of forty plus years I guess He was wrong in his statement then when tubeless tire first started to hit the market

I have never had a tubeless tire explode so can only go by that .

Having had far to many tube type explode and catch fire .

It comes down to the person with the tire and it being there call after all

 

Maybe it could be sold to someone that just wants it as a spare or only does local low speed driving. At least get a few bucks for it to put toward a new tire.

It's also good to do 5-tire rotations, so if this situation ever happens you can retire that tire to use exclusively as the spare, then continue a 4-tire rotation until you replace all of them again.

About 10 years ago I was driving a small car loaded with crap on old tires that weren't inflated enough for the load. I ended up blowing out a rear tire on the highway and luckily only fishtailed a few times then spun 180° to a stop in the left lane. Other cars were far enough back to stop, and I was able to pull over to the side.

After this experience I take my tires seriously. Check tire pressures regularly and especially before long highway trips or if I'm carrying more weight than normal. It's the flexing of the tire which generates heat which can breakdown the tire, so higher pressures are actually safer in that regard, but too high could cause handling problems or a harsher ride.

Anyway, back to the point. This tire if patched and plugged might not be dangerous especially if it's used on the back not carrying heavy loads and it's kept properly inflated. I'd be more concerned with broken belts rather than losing air. A leak can be tested for with soapy water. The broken belts might allow the tire to flex a little more that usual and fail unexpectedly.

So it all depends on how you want to use the tire after fixing it and what risks you want to take.

 

Maybe consider storing your bolts in a box, because a tire is a dumb choice.

 

Lots of good advice and perspectives here for the OP to look over and make decision for him/herself.

 

ToyotaJim; the plug patch is the best, for sure, but a plug would fix it pretty well, and you don't need to dis-mount the tire. ARB sells a very-good tire plug kit (photo attached), and I always keep one in my truck, and have used it dozens of times. I have NEVER had a plug leak or fail. Additionally, it looks like your lag screw went straight in, not at some crazy angle.

Plugs are basically made of a synthetic rope (strong fibers) impregnated with un-cured rubber. When you put the rubber cement on the rubber-impregnated plug, and then push it into the CLEANED puncture hole, it will actually vulcanize the damaged tire back into a homogenous unit; just like it was before the screw went into it. And, be certain to push the plug well into the inside of the tire (1/4" - 1/2") before cutting it off; this allows the pressure inside of the tire to "push back" on the plug (towards the outside of the tire) to further seal the puncture; kind of a "half-assed" boot/patch on inside of the tire. The pressure inside of the tire causes the inner portion of the plug to flatten out on the inside.

Remember though, after you have inserted the rubber cement-impregnated plug, be sure to let it sit for some time to cure/vulcanize before re-inflating to full pressure.

The reason I emphasize both cleaning the puncture and using a generous amount of rubber cement on the plug is because I have actually seen guys complain that a plug didn't hold, only to find out that not only did they not CLEAN the puncture, they didn't even apply ANY rubber cement (kind of the glue) to the plug before inserting it!

I always plug a tire that has SOME air in it, so that when you DO fill the tire back up, it doesn't stretch at the repair so much. Keep in mind, a plug works best in a ROUND puncture, and you should evaluate each puncture on the amount of damage that was caused. If the damage to the tire isn't a round puncture, then you will have trouble getting it to seal (and be safe).

A little background on me: In another life, I ran a large company's (Goodyear) private truck/company car fleet, and was responsible for 39 tractor-trailer rigs, and 65 company cars. Even though we actually worked for a Tire Manufacturer, we plugged tires DAILY, and never had one fail; ever. Of course, we didn't plug tires that after evaluation were determined to be unsafe for plugging.

 

Awesome info and experience you're sharing hermano I love hearing from folks that especially work on the commercial side of this stuff. Especially appreciate the tips on the things we might skip over in heat of the moment, like ensuring the hole to be plugged is nice and clean so you get a good bond with the cement. I've seen that ARB plug kit in person and seen it used in Southern Utah plenty. Well put together kit and definitely worth the 50 bucks or whatever.