Land Pirate's Side Chick SR5 DCSB 4x4 screed

Cool build. This is pretty much how I want my bedside to look minus the Decked system. Almost pulled the trigger on getting the Decked system.

 

Thank you. I'm very glad to have mine.

 

Installed an Air Lift Ride Control today. Just have the static air for now, down the road I'll likely add OBA and a remote unit.


Here is the basic install of the driver side unit. The cylinder hasn't been inflated yet and the axle is fairly well down in travel.


Here is the cylinder under load and partially inflated.


Top of the cylinder and part of the top mounting bracket.


Routing of the air line. Drilled three holes in the reinforcing ribs under the bed, and then ran the line through those and then inside the frame and down to the air fitting in the top of the cylinder with the elbow oriented to the inboard side. The passenger side air line is routed nearly the same. The only difference is that I routed the line outside the frame once I got over the wheel and then down the outside of the frame to keep it away from the muffler and excessive heat.


Inflation valve inside the bed. There is another one on the driver side.

 

There are some Great ideas in this thread.

How much lift are you getting in the rear over stock. I do not know anyone personally that has airbags.

Thanks!

 

FYI

if you reuse the stock springs you do not need a bro-lean spacer....If you buy aftermarket you will need that spacer

 

Thanks-
I'm really not using the air ride for any lift, just offsetting the static load of about 400 pounds from the rack, tent, and Decked system. I get it back to approximately the factory height so I don't bottom out when I've got people in the truck or more gear in the back.

 

Thanks for that. For right now, I'm not going to do any suspension mods. I have two parking garages that I have to be able to get into for work, and I'm right at max height with my factory suspension and the RTT. If I rig up a sling or something for the RTT I may go back and mod the suspension.

 

Where did you get the locking box?

I like it!

 

Ordered directly from Tuffy. Got here quick and easy to install.

 

Installed the www.anytimebackupcamera.com kit. I ordered the front and rear camera adapter kit with the switch, and then ordered the camera off of Amazon.

Adapter kit:
https://www.anytimebackupcamera.com/products/anytime-backup-and-front-camera
Switch:
https://www.anytimebackupcamera.com/products/front-and-rear-camera-switch-toyota
Camera:

Front/Side/Rear View Camera,Chuanganzhuo Universal Normal Image Car Reverse Front/Side/Rear View Bakcup Camera for All Car,Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RD05MOO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Install was pretty easy. I used the instructions from the link provided when I ordered the kit, and also used the install video from Taco Twonz.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dD5ANbp4aVo
This thread from @Papadave418 was hugely helpful, especially the schematic posted by @capequahog and then edited by @n6vmo with one/two changes from the original. There is a ton of info from the OP on different things that he's tried, lots of input from other posters, different cameras/switches, all kinds of info that is very helpful if you're researching how you want to run a front camera.



I've got an SR5 with the Pro grille installed. I'm still getting the "Clean Sensor" error message, and I didn't want to site the camera right over the sensor garnish. I moved it off the centerline and over so that it is just about inline with my normal forward line of sight, which is right under the "A" in the Toyota centerpiece. There's plenty of clearance inside the grille for mounting the camera and the power/video wiring can be ziptied right along with the sensor wiring harness up to the top of the grille and then routed over behind the headlight wiring harnesses and along the inside of the fender well to the firewall wiring grommet.

The switch mounts and wires easily. If you get the kit, wiring is super easy as you pretty much just match up the wiring by color from the switch to the relay and the harness. Ground your black wires and that's pretty much it. The camera icon and lettering looks close to what would be expected in an OEM from Toyota, and the switch fits right into a blank that was on my SR5 cubby (no bed power inverter on this model).

When the truck is on, the switch gets power so the central camera icon illuminates. It's hard to tell in the light, but it's on in this pic.

Here the rear camera is on (from Park) and the lower amber LED is illuminated.

Here the front camera is on (again from Park) and both the upper and the lower amber LEDs are illuminated. This is not a defect, it is how the switch illuminates due to the sorcery of electrical wiring.

The front camera view. The red crossbar on the limiting lines is about 1 foot off of the leading edge of my bumper. The green crossbars are about 4 feet out. Video quality isn't super great, but it is a $15 camera. I'm going to give this a try and see how well it works, but I may be replacing the camera with one of the $40 units. This one does ok in the daylight, but gets washed out easily at night with headlight illumination, and especially on dirt/rock road surfaces. It's not a bad camera, I think I just want a little better quality.

Nighttime illumination of the switch. It's rather bright and doesn't dim, but because of where it is the steering wheel mostly blocks it and keeps it from being too distracting.

 

Finally got around to moving my dual band radio from the jeep to the Taco.

RAM suction cup mount for the control face, the set is under the driver’s seat along with the external speaker.


Routed power out through the boot in the firewall and the separation wire runs down the A pillar trim and along the wiring harness to where it goes under the seat. Antenna coax runs out from the floor grommet across the engine bay to the Comet mount and antenna.


27” whip, lots of spring, tops out a little higher than the cab.


Nice mount, fits the hood lip and should still allow for clearing the eventual ditch lights. Adjustable in two axes.

 

This is the extension base for the radio. The tiny machine screws and nuts that came with the kit were way to short to be used with the RAM mount, so I got replacements from Ace Hardware.


This is the sideview of the suction cup base. I had an extra Arkon short arm, so I used that. I didn't want to have a longer arm because I didn't want it sticking out too far.



I ran zip ties around the joints to hold the wiring in place. I left enough slack so that the face plate could be pulled out far enough to make plugging and unplugging the cable easier.

 

Nice setup!

 

Thanks!

 

Added KnuKoncepts upgraded terminals.



Ports for wiring, 0-4-8 ga. Next step is to mount and wire in my aux fuse panel.

 

Got 2 things from @CaliRaisedLed installed.
First, I got the bed stiffeners on.


Install was exactly as in their video. However, since I was installing mine after the Decked system was already in, I couldn't drill the front-facing hole for the top bolt. Everything else was without any problem.


The stiffeners clear the drawers, and I still have room to get to the valves for my Air Lifts. I will probably get a washer to replace the OEM D rings. With the additional tie down points on the stiffeners there really isn't any need for them.


I'm still able to get the traction mats in, and there are no clearance issues. The still wedge between the tailgate and the rear of the Decked system and are secure. If I want to, the shackles that I was using fit through the tie down holes in the stiffeners if I really want to secure them.


Top view of the antenna/light mount on the top of the stiffener.

Next was the rock sliders.
These are a huge improvement over the OEM steps. I love these. I went with the bolt-on kickout, 0*, powder coated, no plates. Install was a little different than described in the instructions, but nothing that was too hard to figure out or that was totally unexpected. Just one slight hitch: on the clamp parts I had two issues. First, I only got two of the short spacers when I should have gotten 4. Second, I noticed on the tall clamping assembly with just the spacer between the frame plate tab and the clamp angle piece there was a gap when I tightened down on the assembly. This left the clamp angle piece angling down beyond horizontal, and the head of the bolt was sitting at an angle against the tab. I took two of the extra washers that I had left over from some of the extra hardware and added a washer under the spacer and on top of the spacer. This took up all of the extra slack and it leveled the whole thing right on out. I'll be contacting them for the missing short spacers on Monday. Overall, neither of these are major problems at all. I was able to resolve the angle issue with the included hardware and I still have four of the six clamps installed, and it won't be a problem to get the others on.



The kickout is great for being able to reach the RTT, or to reach into a roof basket (upcoming project). The kickout gives enough of a stable platform that I'm not having to contort like I did with the OEMs.


They conform to the side of the truck (except the kickout obviously) and the finish was well-done with no defects that I saw on the install.
Very happy with the sliders.

 

As an update to the rock slider hardware, I emailed them on Sunday afternoon, and then got a response Sunday night, and got the shipping notification that the hardware was being shipped to me first thing Monday morning. Excellent customer service and great responsiveness.
Great work @CaliRaisedLed

 

So I ordered an @upTOPoverland Bravo roof rack back around New Years or so, and when it arrived the weather was pretty crappy for a few weeks, and then the Rona showed up and I went to zero free time and work all the time. Last weekend I told work I was not going to be scheduled this weekend, and one of the things I wanted to get done was installing my Bravo.
The packaging was very well done, and everything arrived intact and undamaged. Opening it up, the parts were well-protected and everything was there. I laid everything out in groups to make assembly easier, and used two saw horses to assemble the rack where I could get to everything.
The hardware bags.
The tools and printed instructions that I got in the email shipping notification. I started out using the hex key set, but ended up using 4mm and 5mm hex bits in a power driver at the lowest torque setting.
Major pieces laid out.
I started with the two stationary load bars across the saw horses, and then added the side plates. Somehow, even after making sure I had the driver and passenger side plates oriented correctly I still ended up getting them backwards so I had to redo this step. Not a big deal and totally my fault; took a few extra minutes to get it straightened out.
Rear load bar installed vertically.
After this, the remaining load bars went on easily exactly as described in the instructions. The front fairing was a little confusion as the instructions mention 12 washers, but mine didn't come with that many. I figured that was because mine is the non-LED front fairing. Regardless, the front fairing went on fairly easily as well.
Front view of the Bravo fairing.

Now the rack is kind of large, being a roof rack, but not very heavy. The install says to use two people so you don't ding your hood or roof. Being as we are under SIP orders and social distancing says no contact, and I work in high risk areas I really couldn't have somebody come over and help with the install. So I was going to have to do it myself.
I was worried about the exact problems that are the basis for the recommendation to have two people, but it looked like the only way I was going to be able to get the rack on top of the truck was going to be working over the RTT or the hood. Either way was sketchy and I was pretty sure something was going to be gouged.
Originally, my plan was to get the rack together, and wait for the weather to clear before punching the trim and actually installing the rack. However it looked like I might be able to actually finish the install today if I went ahead and committed. Needing a dead blow hammer to punch the drip guard trim pieces I went to ACE. On the drive in I kept trying to figure out how I could get it done. Then the idea of padding the rack hit me. From that, I thought about the split-side foam pipe insulation. So I bought three lengths of small diameter foam insulation and sped back home.
I took the foam pieces and ran one length down each side of the main rails.
I took the third length and ran it across the bottom of the front fairing.
I then took the scrap pieces and cut them to fit the corners, feet, and rear load bar.

I made sure all of the feet were padded so there could be no possible metal to metal contact. I nerfed the whole thing.

It took a lot of extra time, and I ended up racing the weather to get it installed. A lot of small pieces had to be cut. But I felt a lot better about a solo install with the nerf pads.

I knew I would have to crab/walk the rack over the curve of the roofline/windshield, and I wanted to make sure that the high spots didn't contact the metal of the rack.

I ran several wraps of tape to hold them in place to prevent the pads from slipping while the rack was being moved.

After all that was done, I measured and punched the trim pieces, reinstalled them, and shot some Gorilla Glue silicone into the holes for the feet. I added the spacers as instructed and got ready for the final install steps.
I removed my dual band antenna so I wouldn't have to work around that. Then I stood in front of the rack, pulled the front fairing into my body, and grabbed one of the load bars to lift the rack off of the saw horses. I then walked it over to the truck, and easily test-fit the rack onto the hood to make sure nothing was going to harm the hood.
I then crabbed the rack back and forth up to the roofline.
I eased the rack over the windshield/roof transition.

Once over that, I moved the rack into rough position.

I then lined up the feet.

Once I had that, I started to remove the padding around the feet and started the hardware in.

After I got the hardware started, I went around the rack and removed the remainder of the tape and foam.

I did the final tightening of the hardware for the feet to the roof and then the feet to the rack, and then I flipped the load bars back in their assembled position and tightened them all down. Checked all the hardware for tightness, and I was done with the rack install.
I added one pair of grab handles and the jack rack mounts. I will be ordering some tool mounts, a roto mount, a Waterport mount, and another pair of grab handles. Very happy with the mount and how it has turned out.

 

Good work! Looks awesome up there

 

Today the hardware came in, so I started putting my mounts on the rack.
I added a Rago Fabrication Waterport mount.
I mounted this so it sits right at the edge of the rack, but the mats can still be removed.

The traction mats are mounted on KB Voodoo mat holders. I mounted these to the underside of the load bars so they would sit a little lower. To do this I loosened one side of the loadbar screws and removed the other, then rotated the load bars to I could access the channel on the underside. I used 3/8x16 threaded rods for the holders, and then a knurled knob to secure the mats. The rod section is held in place with washers and nylok nuts sandwiching the Voodoo holders. I covered the thread section between the nylok nuts and the upper edge of where the knob will spin down to.
I also added a QuickFist to help secure the Hi Lift handle and hopefully keep it from rattling so much.
I mounted my Rotopax with Waterport attachments inside to the Uptop Overland bracket.