Larger Alternator VS Secondary Battery

Hey guys! I’ve got a 2011 Tacoma factory alternator, regular ole toyota battery. So my question, I’ve got a lot of accessories connected directed to my battery, most of them lights. But I’m having some issues with power not pushing very well on some of these LED lights anymore. Halfway coming on pretty much. The lights are good I know.

And I plan on putting a winch and more lights on for night riding. So my question is, would a larger alternator or a secondary battery be a better option for power??

 

You should look into a agm battery and doing this little mod so it charges the battery correctly. You don’t need a northstar but any agm will suffice.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-northstar-agm-battery-voltage-booster-upgrade.604478/

 

I’ll look into it! That’s for the reply.

 

Your welcome

 

Have you measured the voltages at the LED lights that are doing weird things? Something sounds wonky.

 

Can you explain how an AGM or any other battery will solve an output problem?

First, you need to see what the voltage atthe accessories are as recommended. If your system voltage is dropping below 12.8 the alternator is overloaded so a battery will not solve the problem. You are exceeding the output capacity.

Now if you want to run accessories while the truck is off a higher capacity battery may help but you would want to look at a secondary deep cycle if that's the case.

If you want to run a winch the stock system will work fine...been done like that for decades.

A second starting battery will help with surges like when the winch loads up. You really don't need anything fancy for a winch. Lots of people run yellow tops or deep cycles which I don't understand. Those batteries are made for long small draws like running accessories, not for a winch which is what a starting battery does...short bursts of high current.

 

The only benefit to AGM is faster charging capacity and the ability to deep cycle. None of which would really benefit utilizing AGM in lieu of a standard lead acid battery.

I would however, add an AGM to the existing battery and run a blue sea acr or equivalent automatic charging module.

This ensures you have a high crank starter battery and a battery that will power accessories for prolonged periods of time.

 

I was thinking the same thing.
If they worked correctly when installed and are now an issue, check everything common to the lights in question. Multiple light grounds under one bolt without terminals, just bare wire under the bolt...?
Not saying that's how you did it. Just using that as an example. Check all your splices and stuff like that.

 

How is adding an additional or 20 batteries going to solve the problem of overdrawing the alternator?

If it puts out 100a and you are drawing 101a no additional battery capacity is going to work. Sure it will prolong discharge but that isn't a great way to run an electrical system for extended periods of time. I recommend spending more time reading about basic electricity then the most expensive overland journal/overpriced accessory advertisment.

Of course if your voltage drop is from bad wiring that is a while different story.

 

Does it wear the alt faster?

 

They say absolute power corrupts absolutely...

 

Both a bigger alternator and a second battery.

 

No it don’t

 

Holy sh** that may as well be a second engine! Who makes that???

 

Look closely at the idler pulleys - thats a home job.

Probably some car audio guy or one of those nutso radio yelling contest people. I pulled it off image search.

 

PA performance makes a high amp alternator for the Tacoma. Not cheap though @ $400.

 

So nobody wanted to explain how changing battery chemistry can all of a sudden increase available current from the alternator?

I would probably shy away from any high output alternators for Japanese vehicles. A lot of these smaller Mitsubishi or Denso alternators only put out so much power because the cases are very small.

I too bought one of those very fancy and expensive alternator is back in the day and it popped very quickly.

Your best bet if you really need more power is to put a second system in with a real alternator like a Delco or Leece Neville unit. They are made to take the abuse from the factory and are physically larger and more capable.

Of course that takes a lot of fabrication and expense but so does everything else. Did the original poster ever figure out what was causing the dim lights? Was it a voltage drop or overdrawn the system?

 

https://www.autobatteries.com/en-us/how-to-choose-your-car-battery-replacement/overview

 

It might be helpful to include what lights you added, how many watts are you pulling max if they are all on.
I know next to nothing when it comes to electrical but that would be a good start.