Latest AR Build

I'm not one to show my weapons, or disclose what I own. (For personal reasons.... I'm sure most of y'all understand.) But I can't resist showing my latest build. I've build this weapon around me, ease of use, and practical. Everything on it serves a purpose (even if it is just visual appeal on a few small itemsl.) If you have questions, feel free to ask. And; yes, I am a huge fan of Magpul. Not because it is a fad, but because I have used their products in some environments that make other products cry for mommy. This is my first DPMS. I normally go for S&W, RRA, and other high prices peices, but so far I am happy with the DPMS. 1.5 +/- MOA right now, with only about 400 rounds through the barrel. It started out as a bare DPMS Oracle and ended up as this. Total build time was 14 days. All work done by yours truly.

GG&G FF rails
YHM gas block w/ flip front sight
MBUS
Ergo Grip
Vortex Flash Suppressor
MOE Stock
Magpul AFG
Magpul trigger guard
Magpul BAD Lever
Magpul MMS single point sling
McFarland Gas ring
Magpul Ambi sling attachment plate
EOTech E-XPS2-0
VLTOR offset scout mount for tac light
Streamlight Polytac
Extended Charging handle
Misc other add ons, and some minor paint work.

 

Thanks, its very comfortable. (No tape on switch, I just use the pressure switch on the back of the light. I don't like excessive wires or pressure switches that seem to wear out at the worst possible moment.) I've never used the 11 o'clock until recently. I don't like having to shift my grip to access anything I need in a split second. This allows me to move my thumb about 2cm and "take a picture" with the pressure switch. I'm also not a fan of the guys that leave tac lights on all the time. The VLTOR mount isn't the cheapest, but its easy on and easy off should the situation arise. Its solid as can be, and locked in tight. Ill carry this flashlight mount to Trashcanistan with me if that gives you any idea of how pleased I am with it. The GG&G rails are modular and offer an 11 o'clock mount, but I like the VLTOR more since the light sits a little closer to the weapon.

 

Also, the AFG is not for everyone. It took about 30 min to get comfortable with, and I may change it to the AFG-2 (slightly smaller) since I only have carbine length rails and can not go as far forward as I would like with it. Overall a winner though.

 

Nice looking rifle.

 

For a broomstick, side mount (9 or 3) is probably your best bet since you can actuate the light with your thumb. 11 or 1 o'clock works best for most people with an AFG or no additional grips; again, actuating the light with your thumb. You want to build the weapon around YOU not you around the weapon. Use whatever setup you can so that you don't have to change your whole grip/stance to operate any additional equipment on the weapon. In combat or any SHTF situation, you don't want your brain doing any more than it has to so you can focus on filling up the bad guy with lead. My personal opinion of broom sticks is that you get too much wobble on the top end since all the weight is resting on top of your closed fist for the most part. *To each his own though; its what you are comfortable with. I will never tell someone that a certain set up is any better than another.*

 

looks good. Im starting a build and I planned on using the desert tan magul gear too

 

OoOooo...you've got the BAD lever too! Jealous...

 

Care to share your painting method for the fire/safe etc etchings? Also your dust guard engraving?

 

Ejection Port Cover:http://www.harengser.com/store/products.php?cat=11
Don't listen to people that say you have to remove your barrel to change the cover. Just use some needle nose plyers and remove the super small c-clip on the retaining rod, slide the rod back towards the forward assist, pay close attention to the spring, and try not to scratch the forward assist with the rod. Reverse and you are good to go. *The c-clip is concrete soluble, and can be lost EASILY. Have a spare or pay CLOSE attention while removing it, it will get lost otherwise! I used the end of 2 1/16th" hole punches to guide the c-clip back on and it worked well for me.

TO PAINT:
Items Needed: Testors Model Paint, Paint Thinner, Beer, Fine Paint Brush or equivalent, CLP, lots of free time, patience, and Beer.

1) Degrease area you wish to paint

2) In a small area (I used the cap off a water bottle) dab some paint in the bottle cap and mix a small bit of paint thinner in with the paint. (Approx 1 part thinner for 10 parts paint.....guessing, its not a science though.) *I have done this without thinner, but it requires more time*

3) With your fine paint brush, apply the paint mixture to the recessed area you wish to the thinned paint and let the paint "flow" in to the crevice (like water through a trough.) No need to try to follow the lines and be all perfect with it. Let the paint fill up the letter, shape, etc. Don't worry about extra paint, you will fix that later.

4) Drink Beer, let the paint dry, again, not worrying about the excess paint blobbed on the receiver.

5) Take a rag (old cotton shirt works best) and dab with CLP. Begin to rub the shirt with CLP wrapped around your finger in a circular motion over the blob of paint. Work in all different directions and move to a clean spot on the rag as needed. After what seems like 25 forevers, you will see the blob removed and perfect lines where the paint is recessed appear. Dont get impatient, keep rubbing, and all the sudden you will notice that you are done.

6) Drink more beer, and look over the area you completed, reapply as needed.

7)Marvel at the clean paint lines! Once the paint cures, it will be permanent. I have taken weapons to the range, training, and various other nasty places and the paint has held up fine. It works on all the guns I own. (If you do this on a polymer part, the paint will "stain" and you cant do anything about it.)

Let me know if you have any questions, I'm always willing to help out!

***I am not responsible for any damage done to your weapon and do not recommend this process unless you want permanent paint!!***

Some reccommend a crayon, but it melts in one trip to the range, others use a needle and syringe, but there is too much room for error there.... besides. Do you REALLY want to take a firggin crayon to you $2,000 weapon?

 

Easy enough on the Testors paint. I also read about people using a China Marker, but I like this method way better. And those dust guards are SWEET! I see a custom Zombie Hunter in my future! Thanks for the info Matt!

 

Real nice.