lBJ bolt threads stripped, now what?

Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242 is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing.

 

Red is considered permanent on fasteners smaller than 3/4". On 3/4" and larger it is considered removable and the equivalent to blue for these larger fasteners. Red usually needs heat to aid in disassembly once again on smaller fasteners.

When I was in industrial sales I was trained directly by loctite / permatex.

 

Cool, good to know. Now we are talking about LBJ bolts not railroad tracks . 10mm is is almost half of 3//4 inch do red loctite big bold theory does not apply here. The bottom line use blue for LBJ job. Period.

Now all need to be very careful about using OEM bolts for no OEM LBJ. The easy way to see a difference between aftermarket LBJ and OEM (besides greasing tip on some aftermarket parts) is the metal surface where these bolts go through. All aftermarket LBJ (including so famous MOOG) have these surface not finished (rough from the casting) and possible few mm thicker than OEM. For these LBJ 31.5 mm long bolts might be to short. OEM LBJ have both sides of each hole machined flat and to correct thickness so OEM bolts have enough thread to engage with steering knuckle.

 

Red is far from permanent. I have coated the threads of my trans mount in that stuff multiple times and the bolts still come lose. Next step is tack welding the bolt to the mount.

 

Both surfaces have to be clean from any oil and rust. The loctite is not a putty - the thinner layer of it between metal surfaces the stronger it is. Few times I was able to break bolts that were loctited (green or red).

 

I just had a very similar problem. I drilled an tapped the hole one size larger. I have about 300 miles on it so far, some of those miles are off road. Every thing is holding up well so
far.

 

Actually because of sleeve dowels the bolts see no shear at all.

 

Same. However, I use Permatex, and that stuff, while red, says on the bottle "high strength", not "permanent". I guess red Loctite is different.

 

Does anyone know of a toyota flange bolt that's m12x1.25x32mm

 

for the lower ball joint? with or without the dust cover?

 

Without

 

If you have good access check this out... repaired a stripped lower unit drain hole on my outboard years ago with the solid wall threaded insert kit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlQWhmr1DJQ

 

without asking too many questions, this thread right here should have all of the answers you’re looking for

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lower-ball-joint-bolts-why-so-many.730843/