LBJ Failure - Questions - please help

Yes, the old one needs to be pressed out and new one pressed in

 

@Tronracer

Where you at?

Quick and easy job to knock out.

 

South New Jersey

 

http://www.bajataco.com/tech/control_arms_01.html

 

This is stellar question asking format! TW should template this and stick it.

The CV's look OEM. If you have the time and desire to reboot them yourself, definitely do it. If not, get some parts store CV's and reboot the OEM ones at your leisure. Fun and sometimes frustrating depending on the snap ring pliers.

No need for new LCA's unless there's serious rust issues and/or need new bushings and don't want to replace bushings DIY style. Most of the time if the cam bolts are seized, the bushing are shit as well. Definitely buy new OEM LBJ's.

New, adjustable UCA's never hurts but may not be necessary as stated previously.

The cost for a mechanic and parts is going to be stupid expensive for the simple things you need. You would be money ahead if you could buy the tools and parts to DIY. Guess that depends on if you have another vehicle to drive while you wrench and some modest space to make the repairs.

 

thanks for the reply and wisdom. A couple things: 1. I do have another car so this truck is just my vehicle to romp occasionally in the woods. I probably put 5k miles a year on it-maybe. 2. My mechanic is my next door neighbor. I trust him and he doesn’t charge me a lot for his work compared to what it would cost elsewhere. 3. I went ahead with ordering JBA UCA since they come with UBJ already attached. 4. I got Sankei 555 LBJ since they saved me $200 and seem to be pretty close to OEM. If I get 100k out of them it will take 20 years. That’s okay w me. 5. I’m still stuck on if I need EXTENDED cv axles for lifted vehicles because of the lift or not. If so, then I’ll need to do both. Price difference is negligible so that is not a factor. Thanks for the help!

 

I have 3" of lift with OEM cv axles no problems. Many others on here are in the same boat with anywhere from 1-3" of lift without any extended CV axles. Your case should be no different

 

You don't need aftermarket UCA's or extended cv axles.

Your angles are less severe than mine were with my less than 2" of lift. I bet you're well under 2" lifted over stock height.

 

I ordered the JBA UCA because the description mentions better ride quality. After I got the 5100 lift, the ride quality is super stiff in the road. Getting the JBA UCA was only a few hundred dollars more than getting only UBJ and seems like a simpler install since they come with UBJ already pressed in.
Good to know I don’t need extended cv axles though. Thank you.

 

The UCA's cannot promote better ride quality.

Your Bilstein 5100's are digressive shocks, and are meant as an upgrade for going off-road. It's for that reason that your ride "feels stiff", your shocks are valved in a way to keep your tires planted to the ground to maintain traction in an off-road environment.

Too often are people buying upgraded shocks for these trucks assuming it will ride like a pillow.

Aftermarket UCA's will have added caster to help with achieving proper alignment in a lifted situation. They'll also offer slightly more articulation but only in an environment that can take advantage of said travel. Otherwise, you won't feel it at all.

You mentioned your neighbor being a mechanic and doing the work, it would be fair that he (or any mechanic for that matter) will have one of those large C-clamps or even a 3-jaw puller for separating your old upper ball joint from your spindle.

 

On the plus side, I think JBA still sends out Jesus CD's with their arms so....that could be something to look forward to

 

Can confirm, they are still sending out Jesus CD's.

 

Makes sense; have you seen the 3rd Gen section?

 

JBA = Jesus Born Again

You will still need to press out the OEM UBJ, but your neighbor can figure that part out. In the future just four bolts will replace your UBJs.

 

Damn, epic fail on my part. I should have just gotten plain old UBJ instead of the UCA.

 

I don't agree. At least with aftermarket there is no pressing back in a new one. The adapter is put in place with ease for the JBAs. You don't have to remove the knuckle for this, but might as well since you are replacing CV and LBJ at the same time. It will be easier to press out with a ball joint press or shop press with the knuckle free from the truck.

 

He's paying his neighbor to do the work, which is why I believe the convenience really is more for the mechanic working on it and not the OP.

I believe the money is better spent on OEM LBJs.

 

I understand. On a 1st GEN anything other than OEM LBJ is JTW (Jesus Take the Wheel).

 

Maybe those UCA's will save him

 

I understand Sankei 555 are identical to OEM. I got those.