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LCA Bushing Question

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by PMK, Aug 29, 2011.

  1. Aug 29, 2011 at 4:23 PM
    #1
    PMK

    PMK [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2010
    Member:
    #32186
    Messages:
    1,057
    Gender:
    Male
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    10 DCLB TRD Sport
    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors
    There are a lot of folks that have had the lower control arm bushings cause problems.

    Most comments are that the bolt corrodes in the bushing resulting in the alignment cams rotating. This causes a constant changing alignment.

    It has been said that if Toyota had put grease fittings or assembled with grease the bushings would not corrode and seize, ending the damage to the cams.

    So can someone offer details on this bushing. Apparently it has a steel sleeve. Is the steel sleeve bonded to the rubber, or does the inner bushing actually rotate. Or is the design one in which the bushing is pivoting on the bolt (this just seems wrong)?

    I have searched here and look at the Toyota manuals posted online. If the rubber bushing is supposed to allow the true movement, how can the cams move if the bolts are torqued to the 100 ftlb spec.

    I can see the grease acting to minimize corrosion, but am not sure it will help make these bushings rotate any better, or save the cams when properly torqued.

    PK
     
  2. Aug 30, 2011 at 2:56 AM
    #2
    PMK

    PMK [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2010
    Member:
    #32186
    Messages:
    1,057
    Gender:
    Male
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    10 DCLB TRD Sport
    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors
    I agree and can understand how grease applied to the bolt will help with disassembly later.

    The part that bothers me is why are the bushing pivoting on the bolt and not pivoting by flexing the rubber bushing, ultimately bending the frame tabs.

    Other than the bolts that secure the LCA being undertorqued, how can this be happening?

    PK
     
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