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LCA Bushings: OEM, Energy Suspension, Whiteline

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by alphabravo, Oct 8, 2015.

  1. Oct 8, 2015 at 9:10 PM
    #1
    alphabravo

    alphabravo [OP] Well-Known Member

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    EDIT: Dropbox is discontinuing support for the "Public" folder. Most of my links in this thread will die 9/1/2017 until I recreate using their new shared folder system. In the meantime, here are PDF copies of the first few pages of the thread.
    Page 1
    Page 2
    -------------------------------------

    Hi guys,

    While discussing the pros and cons of developing a stock width after-market LCA, here, we kinda went down a rabbit hole about bushings. I just wanted to start a separate thread talking about the problems and solutions for LCA bushings.

    It seems that the LCA bushings have several issues:

    1. LCA bushings (and alignment cams) commonly seize up making alignment difficult or impossible. Seized bushings also restrict the rotation and range of the LCA.

    2. Seized bushings are challenging to fix and usually must be cut out and replaced. Also you don't really know until you are neck deep in the project if the bushings are seized and if you will need to put everything back together and make a trip to the dealer to special order new OEM bushings as well as new alignment cams.

    3. Complete replacement bushings are basically a rather expensive and rare dealer item and sometimes special order which is a bit scary as these trucks get older.

    4. While there are several after-market replacement options for upgrading the stock width UCA, including UCA bushings, there is no after market solution that allows a move away from the OEM LCA and LCA bushing setup.

    5. Even if the bushings are in good condition the OEM bushings are rubber and a common mod is to replace them with poly. As of October 2015, however, no one is making a complete poly replacement bushing that is advertised for the first gen Tacomas.

    6. The Energy Suspension polyurethane kit for the LCA requires a rather tedious process of removing the thin press-on washers from the thin center sleeve, burning and/or drilling out the old rubber, and then pressing in the new poly bushings and pressing on the old washers. You won't find many threads about how to do this (I think @Dirty Pool has a writeup) and the risk of damaging the old metal sleeves and washers is rather high to say nothing of the fact that the old sleeves can be highly corroded.

    You can see here how thin the metal is around the inner sleeve:[​IMG]

    The main issue here is that you need to buy the ES kit to do the job but you don't really know until too late whether the ES kit will be successful. If the bushings are hopelessly corroded or if you must destroy the bushings to remove them from the LCA or if you accidentally damage them while removing rubber and installing the poly, then you must either source more old bushings or buy new ones to destroy for the ES conversion. Ask me how I know :anonymous:. No seriously. I purchased the ES kit and then after removing the steering rack, strut, and LBJ discovered that the drivers side bushings were seized, badly corroded, and might need to be cut out. I took a gut check and decided not to try as I can't risk being without my vehicle in the event the conversion failed. Also I don't have a shop or my own press so that is another reason I noped out.

    7. After ordering the ES kit I discovered a lesser known alternative: Whiteline bushings W53377A. Thanks to @Squeaky Penguin and @Taco me elmo for talking me down and convincing me to try them. Although these are not advertised for first gens, some guys on TW have been running them for a couple of years with no issues @Squeaky Penguin and @lotsoftoys.

    You can see that they are very heavy and a great improvement over the OEM style. The kit includes 4 complete bushings to do the LCAs on both driver and passenger sides. UCA bushings are not included.
    [​IMG]

    And here they are installed:
    [​IMG]

    When I spoke to Whiteline about bushings for the first gens they had this to say:

    Hi Christopher,

    Thank you for contacting us with your product question. We do not currently have a set of lower control arm bushings confirmed for the Toyota Tacoma. We have a set of FJ Cruiser/Hilux bushings that are undergoing fitment and testing currently and MAY have a part number listed for the Tacoma in the first part of 2016. Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with.

    Thank you,

    Jonathan Polidano
    Technical Sales Coordinator
    Rancho Cucamonga,CA
    Email:Jonathan.Polidano@whitelineus.com
    WHITELINE USA 888-610-4755 | FX909-203-7334 | www.whitelineus.com


    They didn't specifically mention the model number but it is pretty clear that they are talking about the W53377A bushings. Unfortunately, I think they must be made in Australia or something because they are a bit hard to come by. Not many places have them in stock and I had to order from Amazon.

    Ok. Nuff for one post.

    :cheers:

    P.S. (April 30, 2016)

    A note about squeaking and poly bushings...When I first installed the Whitelines they squeaked like crazy. I think I was going crazy and I never even got it offroad.

    Anyway I went back in and completely tore everything down. Total Chaos UCA bushings, Whiteline LCA bushings, AND Energy Suspension steering rack bushings. I cleaned all the bushings, bolts, contact surfaces of grease, grit, paint, and then instead of using Redline, I greased everything heavily with SuperLube. That stuff is completely synthetic and free of petroleum based additives. It is a food grade grease and plays nice with the polyurethane. For two months now I have 0.000 squeaks. Zero. I am using it on everything now except CV boots.

    [​IMG]

    Edit April 2017:

    I've had the Whitelines on for about a year and a half and wanted to add an update.

    1. On the positive side, the Whitelines are still squeak free after doing the careful cleaning and greasing I described last year.

    2. On the downside, the Whitelines do not have the grooves on the bearing face that the OEM bushings have. These grooves allow the bushing to bite into the metal on the frame under proper alignment bolt torque. The Whitelines have thick smooth aluminum washers which are prone to slipping under heavy load and throwing alignment. I just had this happen to me yesterday when I was changing out tires. When I dropped the jack on the front end the suspension droop caused the tires to land on the outside shoulders which put the LCA into compression and caused one of the back LCA cam bolts to bang to the limit. It took me a bit to figure out what had happened. I'm limping on a manual alignment til I get it re-aligned. I have been using a higher torque then OEM (more than 100 ft-lbs) to prevent this from happening but the potential still exists. I have been thinking of a way to roughen the face of the washers and improve the grip but no great ideas yet.
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2017
  2. Oct 8, 2015 at 9:13 PM
    #2
    alphabravo

    alphabravo [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I wanted to post some pics and video of the bushing removal/replacement process.

    Here are the poor stock bushings with 200K miles on them.
    [​IMG]


    I only found only one video on Youtube of the bushing removal process so I made my own :D



    Here are some guys doing it for a 4th gen 4 Runner. Heat added.



    Here is a guy discovering how hard it can be to remove the LCA when the bushings are frozen up.



    Here is a pic of the inside the control arm after the corroded bushings were removed.
    [​IMG]

    The passenger side bushings popped out without much trouble but you can see the bushing is a bit corroded.
    [​IMG]

    I used a ratchet strap to restrain the arms when the bushing was stubborn. You definitely don't want to spread the arms.

    [​IMG]

    I used some antiseize when I installed the new bushings. Not sure if that's kosher.

    [​IMG]

    You can see that the OEM bushing has a slight taper to it. I guess that is why the Whiteline bushings fit even though they have a slight step in them. I was able to tap them in with a rubber mallet.

    Here is the diagram of the Whiteline bushing from their website.
    [​IMG]
    Whiteline dimensions here.

    Here are some dimensions of the OEM bushing showing the slight taper of the outer shell (about 1/16").

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2016
  3. Oct 8, 2015 at 9:13 PM
    #3
    alphabravo

    alphabravo [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Here are some links to other threads that discuss control arm bushings.

    The thread that got me going:
    http://www.bajataco.com/tech/control_arms_01.html

    Interesting hack for removing bushings:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/redneck-lower-control-arm-lca-bushing-press.134846/#post-2624141

    Second gen bushings:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-lca-bushing-replacement-2005-tacoma-4x4.176250/#post-3691528


    Here are some links to source MOOG, OEM, and Whiteline bushings:

    MOOG, Beck/Arnley, AC Delco
    http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1429084&parttype=7532

    OEM (2003 4WD shown)
    http://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/pa...icleid=78972&diagram=8510190&diagramCallOut=4

    [​IMG]

    OEM part numbers are as follows:

    lower cntrl arm front bushing 4 WHEEL DRIVE Left & Right
    OEM Part No. 48061-35040

    lower cntrl arm rear bushing 4 WHEEL DRIVE Left & Right
    OEM Part No. 48061-35050

    Whiteline Bushings (Part No. W53377A)
    http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W53377A
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2016
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  4. Oct 8, 2015 at 9:45 PM
    #4
    nagorb

    nagorb Should be a dang perma mod

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    Awesome thread! Wish it had been done when I did mine, absolutely wouldn't have gone with energy suspension. Beers on me if we ever meet!
     
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  5. Oct 8, 2015 at 10:31 PM
    #5
    chowwwww

    chowwwww Well-Known Member

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    Great thread! the video is super helpful. I don't feel so hesitant to try this now. Hopefully I'll find time over the winter break to do everything.
     
  6. Oct 9, 2015 at 5:46 AM
    #6
    Deathbysnusnu

    Deathbysnusnu Work is just a daily detour to happy hour.

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    Dude..:cheers:
    Thanks for posting this!
    If the new lca's don't happen, it's nice to know this thread will be here.
     
  7. Oct 9, 2015 at 6:01 AM
    #7
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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  8. Oct 9, 2015 at 6:56 AM
    #8
    johnny3

    johnny3 Well-Known Member

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    I got the rubber ones also, too manny squeak stories about people using polyurithane. With 160k miles on the stock rubber ones I can't complain,
    you had 200k, that's awful good service. I've got to get started changing them out before it gets too cold.
     
  9. Oct 9, 2015 at 7:27 AM
    #9
    Squeaky Penguin

    Squeaky Penguin Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained

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    Nice write-up! Glad the Whiteline's are working out for you, and that the bottle jack method worked for you better than it did for me.

    I would be slightly concerned with the anti-seize depending on how much you used. On poly bushings, you want the sleeve to move, and Whiteline supplies some of the special grease that you apply to the inside of the bushing/outside of the sleeve. I doubt it would cause a problem, but you don't want the whole thing moving in there. And on top of that, really not that hard to remove the whole setup even after a dozen years and 200K miles.

    FWIW, my Whiteline's do squeak, but I only really notice it when wheeling. Doesn't bother me at all.
     
  10. Oct 9, 2015 at 7:57 AM
    #10
    chowwwww

    chowwwww Well-Known Member

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    Anyone have a link to the correct whiteline bushings? its for the 3rd gen 4runners correct?
     
  11. Oct 9, 2015 at 11:18 AM
    #11
    Fernando

    Fernando ! GIT-SUM !

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  12. Oct 9, 2015 at 11:30 AM
    #12
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool WHEEL DAILY

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    Someone tagged me?

    FWIW, NAPA lists the Whiteline bushing set (all 4) as a Tacoma application, W53377A $104.
    I like the rotating/sliding design as opposed to the "torsional flex" of the rubber with OEM/OEM type bushings. As Mr Squeaky Penguin mentioned there is going to be the potential for squeaks. Other than that, they likely will not last as long as OEM (friction/dirt) but plenty long enough for my money and easily as long as the ES set up.
    One other thing, some arms (pics above) have a hole in the eye, mine below don't. The eye is the weakest link in the arm and a hole makes them weaker.

    The bottle jack method will work fine in cases of "lesser" corrosion but the potential for bending the arm can not be denied. Just something to keep in mind and keep an eye on while one cranks on the jack.
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/slightly-bent-lca-feedback-appreciated.508276/
    And yet another, worse.
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lca-bushings-will-not-budge.617319/#post-20985401


    With a press
    About a half hour job, for both sides

    While the average Joe doesn't have a press handy, if the jack method isn't cutting it, the following prep/process could be taken to the local pressman with a few bucks.

    In this case they were rusted in pretty good. Toyota wants you to cut off the flange on the old bushing to allow the control arm eye to be supported (against the pressing force) by a SST or in our world a QUALITY bearing splitter. It sounds simple enough but in reality, removing that flange without destroying the eye can be a challenge. The flange is right up against the control arm eye.

    Here we go.

    Bend back the edge of the flange with a stout hammer and drift, in 2 places 180deg (more or less) apart. No biggie.
    CONTROLARMBUSH001_2a926b3037870d78a88ff1be4bbcc35594cf150c.jpg


    Flange bent back.
    CONTROLARMBUSH002_9f9a27093e9f8419b8c37f5079dee321cebb6dfd.jpg


    This allows room enough for a splitter to support the control arm eye against the pressing force. Don't be timid when tightening the splitter against the bushing.
    CONTROLARMBUSH003_6d3f8287e32f0af2118ef0f7091c478fb91c3214.jpg


    Splitter supporting the eye and ready for pressing. The pressing force must be delivered thru the opposing eye with what ever stuff you got on hand (pipe, rod, sockets, general stock, etc.)

    CONTROLARMBUSH004_2d93ffee0a4965901f8af2a38c3fef396915ec8a.jpg
    SETUP2_zpszjutj2ri_eb19a500fb42f1138562e8f2b7d5425c6de9f508.jpg


    In this shot the first bushing is tapped back in just a tad to serve as a guide to keep the whole mess stable while pressing the second bushing.
    SETUP1_zpsyjpd0gq8_71c56269fcfa82031b88466cdec56727b74822d8.jpg


    The offending bushing, now a paper weight, same taper/step as the Whitelines.

    CONTROLARMBUSH005_59b9ef663ecebcf6f47b6e7ecee25363d04be57f.jpg


    This shot shows the front and rear OEM bushings and the cam/sleeve that gets cut if it is seized to the inner sleeve of the bushing. The cam/sleeve half of the adjuster is the only part destroyed. Usually the bolt is not seized to the cam/sleeve. If it is, there is just that much more to cut thru.
    OEM front and rear 4wd bushings are different and have an "up/down orientation in the control arm eye. BUSHCAMRS002_d66b99dedfea68a9431fd5e27ebaaec109d68060.jpg
    Pressing in the new bushings is as simple as just pressing them in.

    I will add this. OEM bushings are not inferior or failure prone what so ever. More good ones are replaced by folks chasing clunks than bad ones. They last a long long time.
    With the washer popped off (F) the "inner sleeve" is seen to be far from "wimpy or thin" as seen below. The hollow voids in the rubber portion come orientated up and down with the rear bushing having smaller voids.
    CAB6_zpsgbv9uzjc_efebb1c19d5102fd9f1f615e4e0fcf0f5a24584f.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2019
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  13. Oct 9, 2015 at 11:43 AM
    #13
    mach1man001

    mach1man001 eh whatever

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    Thinking I may need to be doing this soon. :popcorn:
     
  14. Oct 9, 2015 at 11:47 AM
    #14
    alphabravo

    alphabravo [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The hyperlink to Amazon and whitelines is in my writeup. Whiteline bushings for the LCA were about $64.
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2015
  15. Oct 9, 2015 at 12:43 PM
    #15
    alphabravo

    alphabravo [OP] Well-Known Member

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  16. Oct 9, 2015 at 12:47 PM
    #16
    alphabravo

    alphabravo [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Awesome. Thanks man. Yeah I saw that you had offered to do a writeup. I was hoping someone had more about how to do the ES install with all the burning and drilling and swearing :D

    I have an ES kit I'm not using and some old bushings now. Maybe I should do it for the education. LoL
     
  17. Oct 9, 2015 at 12:59 PM
    #17
    Lipson

    Lipson Well-Known Member

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    For anyone who's in SoCal go to the SD Truck Shop for your LCA bushing replacements. They do a swap service where you give them your LCAs and they give you other LCAs with new polyurethane bushings already installed in them. I have them on my truck and they're great. I attempted to do the energy bushings myself but burning the old ones out nearly ruined the LCAs (probably because i'm impatient).
     
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  18. Oct 10, 2015 at 11:08 AM
    #18
    Caligula

    Caligula It's the COVFEFE

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    Im curious, is there a reason i never see anyone using a MAPP torch on these to aid in breaking the bushings loose? Even if the outer bushing is metal on the metal LCA, is could help release the bond from oxidation and cause the LCA to expand a bit.

    I have made a series of bushing tools using various pipe fittings and 7/16" (M12) allthread. It looks like there is not enough surround surface to use these. If you dont have access to a shop press, i would agree like the OP to use the splitter first, then a 2 jaw puller with an impact gun.

    Also i would not use anti-seize , i would use white lithium grease, just to help with installation. You see rubber bushings are not meant to rotate like poly bushings. The rubber bushings are designed to twist and flex with the outer surround stationary. Poly bushings are designed to fully rotate.

    On a BMW rear subframe:

    12042009061.jpg
    12052009079.jpg
     
  19. Oct 10, 2015 at 4:15 PM
    #19
    chowwwww

    chowwwww Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2014
    Member:
    #131583
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    Male
    Orange County
    Vehicle:
    03 Doublecab 4x4
    Billys 5100/Eibach and Wheelers Progressive 1.5 AAL with overload in
    What brand bushings and price?
     
  20. Oct 10, 2015 at 6:03 PM
    #20
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2010
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    #34006
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    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Roaming the PNW
    Vehicle:
    The RedHead
    2002 XtraCab TRD 4x4 v6 Auto Trans With Lots of Mods King Extended Travel COs Camburg Uniball UCAs Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushings Alcan Custom 8-Leaf Rear Spring Packs Fox 2.0 Resi Rear Shocks FrankenFab Rear Shock Relocate All-Pro U-bolt Flip w/Timbren bumps Toytec 1" Extended Shackle 4.88 Nitro Gears ARB Front Locker ARB Twin Compressor Gunmetal 16x8 SCS Ray10s 285/75r16 Cooper STT Pros Limited Edition Relentless Front Bumper Smittybilt X2O 10K Winch 3" LED Pods w/Amber covers in the Bumper 22" Single Row LED Bar on the Bumper Mini D2S Projectors XB35 Ballasts + 4500K Bulbs Badland Sliders FrankenFab Tire Carrier Swingout bumper w/kitchen BudBuilt Front & Bellypan Skids BAMF Rear Diff Skid Whynter 65 qt. Fridge/Freezer CVT Mt Bachelor RTT Badland Custom Bed Rack GM 140 amp alternator Dual Northstar 24F AGM batteries BlueSea 7622 ML-ACR Battery controller Peak DBI Dual Battery Voltage Monitor Magnaflow 18" Muffler 13WL Brake Calipers Braided Steel Brake Lines AFE Pro Dry S air filter ScanGauge II OBDII Scanner Kenwood TM-71A Dual Band Ham Radio Larson 70CM/2M Antenna Uniden 520xl CB radio 3' Firestik Adjustable tip antenna Pioneer DEH-P9400BH HU Alpine Amps & Type R components (F) and coaxials (R) Wet Okole Seat Covers Weathertech Digital Liners Deck Plate Mod 1" Diff Drop Carrier Bearing Drop
    Very good information @alphabravo Thanks for the write-up.
     
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