leaking Brake fluid, help fix please

A few days earlier the brake light came on and i added brake fluid and thought nothing of it but today I saw the driver side of the rear axle was wet and after looking underneath the truck I found this thing leaking Brake fluid. Well I think its brake fluid and I don't know what its called. Thank you

 

Thats the LSPV (Load Sensing Proportioning Valve). Needs to be replaced or re-built.

 

not cheap by the way, I think they are like $150

it adjusts how much the rear brakes get used based on how much weight you put in the bed which pushes on the lever arm which adjusts brake line pressures to the rear wheels

 

Thanks guys, I'll just replace it. Will i have to bleed the brakes after installing a new one?

 

yes of course, all your brake lines connect to this thing so the whole brake system needs purging afterwards.

its a great time to flush out your master cylinder reservoir since you need to put all new fresh fluid in it.

before starting use a turkey baster or food injector to suck up the reservoir fluid they squish it back in a few times to stir up all the sediments to suspend them and when you have gotten all the darker stuff off the bottom suck it all out and throw it away or use it in a bottle as an air trap to bleed the brakes (explained in the video). then after changing the LSV, refill the reservoir and bleed all 4 of the brakes to purge the system of all old fluid and air. if you crack open a bleeder valve and stick a small 1/4" clear hose on it, then put the other end of the hose in a bottle so its underneath the surface of the brake fluid (use the old fluid you removed from the reservoir or just use new fluid), the fluid holds back pressure on the line when you pump the pedal so it can only push out fluid and it cant suck air or fluid back into the line, its a great way to bleed brakes by yourself and you just bleed it until no more bubbles are seen in the clear hose.

the rear brakes are going to be hard to bleed since they barely get used so tie the load sensing rod up as far as it will go to give as much pressure to the rear wheels as you can get and be prepared to get frustrated at how long it takes to bleed the back brakes (everyone curses it when they have to do it)

here is a video that shows the easy way to bleed brakes by yourself:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfTmlOZbXgs

 

Thanks for all the info , too bad it cost so much , I thinj im going to try to find a used one

 

myself, I would just eat the cost and buy a new one, after all the brakes are not something to play with, but if you can find a parts truck from non rust belt areas, they might have good ones that aren't rusty.

there are a few parts trucks in the for sale section right now, they might have a good one for you

this is the best price I could find on one at $143 http://www.toyotaonlineparts.com/oe-toyota/4791035320

 

Im in Texas so rust isnt much of a problem on parts trucks, I'll check out the sale section here. Thanks again for your help

 

if going parts truck route, try to get it with the bracket too, so if the one your buying doesn't want to separate from the bracket, you can swap the whole thing.

yours doesn't look rusty so you should come off fine but who knows if the other one will

what you are looking at is a two piece thing, there are bolts on the back side of the valve body that you cant see and they hold the mounting bracket and they sometimes don't want to unscrew and if they snap off it makes the valve useless