Leaking differential fluid after CV change. I needed help please

That seal is waaaayy too deep into the housing (and is why it's leaking, it's likely past being able to contact the seal surface on the shaft).
Notice the rust line from where the old seal was? That is where the new seal needs to be (basically flush with the end of the tube).

 

Well that's just lovely. Pretty much everything I read/watched online said the passenger side got put in as far as it could. Which this time I tried to leven it out somewhat more but maybe I guess ill try that.
Should I contact Trackmotive whom made the axle and see if the diameter is the same as factory or if maybe they make a seal to fit it. Should I get a one from Toyota.
I kinda figured that rust ring was from where the metal flange on the end of the axle that goes in the differential. Plus the original axle seal was pushed in like that and it didn't leak until my neighbor damaged it.
But I know enough to know that I don't know much.
So let me ask this.... How do u get the axle out of the differential without bending the metal flange or damaging anything so I can put the same axle back in?
Also on the lower control arm same side, I couldn't get out The alignment chemicals on the Riverside the front lump came out running and I tried heat soaking it in all kinds of penetrating oil and an air and nothing. So where is it that you cut the bolts out?

 

According to the FSM the seal should be 4.85 to 5.75 mm (0.1909 to 0.2264 in.) past the edge of the tube (housing). So a little bit past flush.

There should be notches around the body of the inner CV. You can use a hammer & punch, old chisel, something in those notches to knock it out of the housing (needs a sharp hard blow though to pop the axle clip inside the differential out of it's groove). If it's stubborn, try rotating the shaft ¼-turn at a time (this may allow the clip to drop into a better position so it can pop out of the groove easier).
A slide-hammer kit also can be used, though I didn't have much luck on mine with a cheap Harbor Freight one (old metal chisel and a 3lb hand-sledge worked better for me).

Not sure your last question... If you're asking about the cam (alignment) bolts, the only option is to cut those out & replace them if they are rusted solid.