Learn From My Mistake - Replace Plastic Oil Filter Housing With Metal

Well then I'm sorry to say, but your neighbor is an idiot. Any spin on filter that's stuck for longer than 5 mins gets an 8" philips head screw driver pounded through it. Twists right off.

 

Just did my first oil change.

this tool worked perfectly fine for the stock filter housing

https://www.motivxtools.com/products/toyota-2-5l-5-7l-oil-filter-wrench

 

Dorman makes a metal filter housing also

 

Already put the metal on my Sienna and waiting on the next oil change on Taco to change it. Never had trouble with plastic but just don't trust it. Also heard to many horror stories about the plastic ones.

 

Does your new aluminum housing have the same 3 pins/teeth on one side? I was looking at Amazon reviews of it and looks like it only has one on each side. The oem plastic housing has 3 on one side and one on the other side. They slide right in on the oil filter wrench oil remove tool, I've attached a photo of the wrench so you can see what I'm talking about. And if it doesn't have the same teeth, would my oil filter wrench still work on that new aluminum housing?

 

I have an extra plastic canister that l rotate each oil change, not because of fear of one breaking but just because it gives me time to clean it good. There is already a new filter cartridge installed and ready for my next change.

 

I had to stopped reading this thread, as it basically boils down to person after person buying a cheap Chinese sh*t w socket (xMotive) that interfaces with the tabs (which it shouldn't) instead of fully engaging the flats like the proper socket in the post above, and then is surprised they cracked their housing. Bad tools make everything harder. You don't need the metal housing, just the right tool.

Link to socket on Amazon:

$18 Assenmacher Specialty Tools TOY 640 Oil Filter Socket Wrench for Toyota/Lexus

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015PK3AG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It is noted that it can be hard to remove from the filter housing after use, but rocking it back and forth with wrench will get it to disengage.

 

Just to be clear: DO NOT BUY A SOCKET LIKE THE ONE SHOWN IN THIS POST ABOVE!

Any socket that touches the tabs is a cheap Chinese P.O.S.

 

Wow, you actually clean the canister. I’ve never thought of doing that. Although I don’t really see any particles when I’m changing the filter.

Not trying to start a pissing contest here, but I do my changes every 5k, maybe that helps I don’t know.

 

Y'all do notice Motivx changed their design. The most recent one has no "notches." The one ordered from Amazon had the red spindle/no-notches pictured, but what I got was the all black older model that had the notches.

I'm just figuring this out.

From the description on Amazon:

"CARTRIDGE STYLE OIL FILTERS - This is Motivx Tools 2nd generation 64.3mm 14 flute oil filter wrench compatible with all Toyota and Lexus cartridge style oil filter caps from 1.8L - 5.7L Engines. This is a notch-less design which securely grips the fluted portion of the oil filter cap without engaging the tabs like older wrench designs, preventing the tabs from cracking or breaking off avoiding serious oil leaks. "

I suddenly feel bamboozled.

 

I bought this. It doesn't engage the tabs. It's forged chrome-vanadium steel, so I would expect it to be more durable in the long run than an aluminum tool.

$39 Tool Guy Republic Forged Chrome Vanadium Oil Filter Wrench Socket for Toyota, Lexus, Scion, Type Oil Filter Housings - 64mm 14 Flats

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B8O0BFU

 

Those dorman ones have a major issue with the center piece not staying on, people forgetting them and filters collapsing and blowing the motors… I’ve replaced a few engines at work due to the filters caving in due to a dorman filter housing missing the center tube

 

But of course...

I trust the plastic just fine, even though plastic is inferior to metal imo. The main reason I use it though, is that metal will add an extra pinch of cooling to the oil in the canister via the surrounding air. Or at least that's my excuse for swamping it out.

Good to know, I was starting to think I was the only one who does that.

I take my time and clean it too, even though I'm changing it every 5k. But I'm anal when it comes maintenance, so there's that

 

In the long run you will appreciate these things...long run. More and more people trade in their vehicles so soon and "the postponed" maintenance will be the problem of the next owner...

 

Lol works fine if you don’t overtighten your oil filter.

 

Hmmm! Someone send me their cast-off nylon cartridge. I can get behind this method.

 

I can see it if you're trying to get off an over-torqued canister. Mine wasn't over torqued and came off easily. I didn't apply a lot of torque putting it back on.

There are just as many people complaining about the wrench you recommend, not just not being able to get it off, but rounding it (or the canister) off.

 

I'm amazed at the number of people that can't remove the filter housing without destroying it. Often followed by bat shit crazy claims that the weak ass die cast aluminum is "stronger". Aluminum has higher tensile strength, so the ability to resisting stretching forces is increased, but has less resistance to compression.

So for people that over-tighten the housing then use the wrong tool and sketchy techniques, die cast aluminum is easier to remove. But if you have mastered the complex mechanical concept of lefty loosey righty tighty, the OEM fiber reinforced nylon housing is better. Because fiber reinforced nylon has higher compression strength, the "plastic" housing will survive a bigger direct hit to the housing than the die cast ever will. In either case taking a direct hit to the filter housing wouldn't be good, but the large grain cast structure/thin wall aluminum housing would crack or shatter at a lower threshold than the fiber reinforced polymer housing.

 

Huh...fascinating. I think it's potentially cheap lube places that are overtightening stuff. Before I started doing my own, I'd see that lube joints would try to max tighten the filter/filter housing an drain plugs until they were seized. In previous trucks I've had to crush filters to get them out after taking it somewhere (many moons ago).

 

Now you piqued my interest. Hahaha!

I have no idea what that casting alloy is, but going from this description and that it is molded:





Some other 300 series alloys are stronger:




Nylon 6/6:


170MPa is 24.7ksi -- comparable to cast AL
8,000MPa is 1.1e10^3ksi - much less brittle than cast AL

Sorry. I do not have compressive data.