Learn From My Mistake - Replace Plastic Oil Filter Housing With Metal

Yes the filter comes with both O-rings, you just need some 0w-20 and a drain plug gasket and you are good to go. Mobil 1 has a $12 rebate if you snag it before the end of May.

 

Yes I am buying 3 jugs of mobil1 to get 2 rebates. Only $23 a jug at Walmart so 1 jug will be free. Just ordered 5 filter kits for $25. Do these drain plugs require new gaskets each change. I only replaced those gaskets as needed for all my other vehicles. Actually planning on putting a quick change valve in it anyway so a non-issue. With the TRD skid I want to minimize the mess. Only thing left is buying a quality wrench.

 

I always replace drain plug gaskets, but I am sure you could get by a couple changes.

 

I got tired of changing o-rings and worrying about the plastic housing. Bought the Baxter spin-on adapter and life is much easier.

 

I looked into those but I can do nearly 6 years of oil changes, at 7500 miles a year, cheaper than that adapter.

 

my exact question-almost. filter did come with orings. im thinking 5-20. im in florida. prob gonna do mine tomorrow or tues.

 

Reviews were showing cheap knock-off warnings.

 

The reviews may be correct almost every Toyota part label has a genuine hologram looking sticker on it when putting into light and moving it around you’ll see Lexus
Toyota on it

 

OK so I got the aluminum filter housing, 3 oil changes of mobil1, 5 Toyota brand filter kits and a quality filter housing wrench. My new aluminum housing arrived with the tube but has no drain plug. Do I need to buy a metal plug or is everyone using the one from the plastic housing. Is the oem plastic or metal. Did not look before I mounted my skid. No rush because it will be December before I need an oil change. Just figured I would stock up now while mobil1 rebate is still on. Thanks.

 

You just use the one from the plastic housing it will Work and it’s metal.

 

Thanks. Just saved me $7, or as they call it in California, a gallon of gas.

 

I wonder if the people at the dealer are lubing the O ring before they put it on, and wiping the inside of the housing where the O ring seats with clean oil before snugging things up. A dry O ring will be a bitch to remove.

Years back I worked at a GM dealership. Two guys did all the oil changes, both in their sixties. One guy was retiring by the end of the month. He took the square O ring seal off of each filter and wiped it on both sides with chassis grease, then did the oil change as normal. Months later when those cars came back for an oil change (this was in the time of 3K oil changes) the remaining oil change guy had to get the filters off with a screwdriver or a strap wrench, depending on what would fit. Grease made the rubber gasket swell and stick.

 

Update: just did my first oil change with the new filter. It came off without a fight. Everything is great!

Tip for anyone else who saw someone recommend the oil filter drain hose - do not buy it. It’s a complete waste of money for this truck. When hooking up the hose, there’s barely enough oil in the filter to make it through the hose.

 

I share similar if not exact frustrations regarding oil changes in my Tacoma that it seems a lot of the community members share. Namely, I've been unable to loosen my factory oil filter housing thus forcing me to get my oil filter changed elsewhere which is more expensive and in my opinion not as satisfying.

My question to the community is what are my options for getting the plastic oil filter housing off? I've seen that some members have resorted to using a breaker bar and/or maybe some other power tools (neither of which I own). Should I purchase some auxiliary tool or should I just purchase a metal housing unit and politely ask the mechanics who end up changing my oil to replace the plastic housing with the metal housing when completed?

Thank you in advance for any help, guidance, and/or suggestions y'all provide!

 

are you guys uncllipping the safety clip at the top of the housing? And lining up the grooves in the wrench with the those on the housing?

 

Yes.

 

I use prime series 5w 30 from Sam's club.

 

My safety clip doesn't even touch the housing.

 

My experience (unfortunately) trumps all:

I “inherited” a 2012 Corolla when I got married. All previous oil changes were under warranty. My first oil change was unsuccessful because I COULD NOT get the plastic housing out. I had a filter tool but it didn’t work. It was a cold day so I decided to wait until it was a little warmer and order the Toyota filter tool. So...new tool, warmer day, breaker bar...nothing.

Long story short, the plastic housing was stuck. Real stuck. I ordered a brand new housing AND the ported metal bracket (that bolts to the block and accepts the plastic housing). I just replaced the whole thing. With the old off the vehicle, it took a 2 foot pipe wrench, a heavy duty bench vise and significant abdominal straining to break it loose.

Unfortunately, to make matters worse, I foolishly installed the new o-ring in the wrong spot on the new plastic housing since I didn’t have the old for reference. So, about 2 seconds after the engine started for a leak check...oil sprayed everywhere.

Needless to say, I was frustrated. Oil changes should be easy! And I also keep a picture with the correct o-ring installation location on my phone.

Photos:
- the metal bracket
- the reference photo (with a dirty filter. On my failed attempt I put the o-ring lower vs in the slot where it resides in the photo)

 

used same as 2012 rav 4 , v6 3.5 metal housing.