Leave leveling kit with a 3" lift 06 taco

I was wondering if anyone tried leaving their leveling kit on and putting a 3" lift on and what extra was needed etc. tryin to find ways to get some height without breakin the bank
Might be a bad question but thought id ask
Thanks

 

Stacking lifts is a very bad idea.

 

You would fry your cvs with a 3" spacer on top of longer springs... And you would have 0 down travel.

 

For the amount of lift you want, I think drop bracket is your only choice

 

don't do this.

 

will make her look like she is a ball-arena dancer sittin on edges of tires, o, and kill the tires and suspension. the arm only has so much movement. think about it logically, this is what we did to design the lift kits for ford rangers and bronco II's. the arm has only a set amount of movement possible, by putting a spacer, yes, you add height, but you take up some of that movement space. you can make it role strait with an alignment, but at about 3" you get past the point where an alignment will compensate.

this is probably waaaaay too much in depth, but this is what we had to do when when we reached the usable limit in the suspension... and also explains why you can not stack...


we did 3"body lift, 2 inch spacers, cut out fender flares, and then only could fit 31x12.50 tires and still be usable, but at max those still tore up the fenders and ran out of flex super easy, i mean maybe 8-10" up/down max!. since i used the bronco on trails and no one made a suspension lift for the ranger/bronco II's back then,

we left the spacer in, we ordered 10" lift coils from super lift, i forget what truck they were from, maybe a 4runner? i forget. then we put the 10" springs with the 2" spacers in place (of course with appropriate shocks) then we removed all the rivets in the a-arm suspension, braced the lower suspension so it so it sat at oem position, no stress, then lifted the truck 13"'s physically with a car lift. used jacks to level everything out, then dropped plumb lines from each rivet hole on the frame where the OEM suspension brackets originally where, aligned the plumb lines to the original rivet holes on each suspension part, then took 1/4" hardened steel plate "red iron" and made the spacers and brackets to connect the original rivets from the frame to the original a-arm suspension. so in essence everything sat as it was OEM just spacers in the connection and henge points.

in essence, we took a door henge at rest and then instead of opening it to widen the gap between each side, which if you look at a door henge, if you simple widen the gap by opening it and leave the henge point as it originally was, yes it makes each tip of each side of the henge get a greater distance apart, IE lifting the truck, but look at the henge pieces, the angle is getting greater and greater, more load is placed and less back and forth movement is allowable as you open the henge. what we did and what suspension lifts do is widened the gap between the 2 henge pieces by relocating the henge point, so back to the door henge example we expand the distance between each hinged plate, BUT we never 'open' or swivel the henge, so each plate of the henge stays level even though we increased the distance between them and this allows each plate to still have the same (well close to the same) up and down travel, IE wheel travel, as it did from the factory and/or more
now lets back track.

if we took the OEM setup, could max handle 2' spacers to be usable, and jammed about 12-13 inch lift in what would happen?

since the arms cant drop anymore and since the alignment variance is way past, what do you get?

the arms turn into hinges basically, you keep forcing them to open/widen , just stay under load, so the tires turn inwards, a ball-arena.

you have to think of it like that, you have to extend the points where the suspension connects to the frame, IE keep the distance even. spacers and springs do lift the truck and do work well to a point, but the gain in height is the loss of flex and the addition to constant load.

the coil overs work best for me because i over-sized the shock and chose a spring thats stiff and helps compensate for the extra load put on the system which helps eliminate the bottom point where the oem spring coils touch because you put them in a state they were not designed for.

i tried to sum up like a years work in a single post to give a real world example of why you can not start stacking lifts without modifying the suspension, , sorry if i lost everyone, hope someone understands the point


cheers,
disco




cheers,
disco