LED Light Bar Switch wiring help

Hey guys need some help here, I've got my led light bar wired up and it works great! But I'm having a bit of trouble with the switch.

Everything works fine but the light on the switch won't turn off. It's one of the mictuning drop in switchs so it has the 4th wire. I'm stumped and I've looked all over TW but couldn't find anything!

Any ideas on how I can get the light on the switch to turn off when I turn the truck off?

 

Where is the positive wire connected?

 

Straight to the battery

 

You need to connect it to a switched source.

 

Like doing an add-in circuit tapped into something? Or could you give me an example?

 

Are you using the mictuning wiring harness? Can you post the schematic for the harness. There may be a seperate wire used to power the indicator light on the switch.

 

I have the diagram for the switch but not for the harness. The harness only had one wire for the bar from the relay, power (I have this tapped into the relay wire that has an inline fuse, and a ground wire.

The switch does have a wire for the dimmer but my main concern is getting the light inside the switch to turn off. Right now it is constantly on.

 

If you have a relay there should be a 12volt positive wire from the battery going to the relay and a seperate 12volt switched positive lead that switches the relay on coming from the lighted switch in your dash. I have included a schematic.

 

OK that makes sense! But now the question is what to connect the wire going to the switched power too?

 

There are a few choices you could use as shown on the fuse panel legend above. I used an add a circuit and IIRC connected to the power outlet circuit. Really any source that is only live when the ignition is on should work. If your switch has a seperate illumination wire you may be able to connect that to your dash lights dimmer circuit and your switch could dim with the other dash lights. Note that with this configuration you will need the ignition switched on in order to turn your LED bar on but this should turn the light on your switch off when the truck is switched off. As always I accept no responsibility for any of this advice. Proceed at your own risk.

 

When I installed my switch for power tailgate lock I used an add a fuse in TAIL 10A (fuse panel behind coin tray in cab) for my switch lighting. It works the same as all other switch lighting including bright/dim. For power to the lock I wanted 12V hot (key doesn't need to be in ignition), I used a add a fuse to PWR OUTLET 15A to achieve this. I'm guessing you would want your lights on 12V switched though.

 

I'm about to install the same mictunning wiring harness in a few days. I already knew to hook it to a switched power source with an add a fuse. My question has been what size fuse to go with? I was thinking a 5 amp to 10 amp. Any suggestions?

 

The schematic for the wiring harnes is very vague. It does not say to connect the power wire for the switch to a switched power source so I do see the OP's original confusion. I looked at it for a few minutes b fore I figured out what needed to be done.

 

I did the wiring about three years ago so was kinda guessing about the fuse panel. Thanks for the correction?

 

I did look at the schematic provided by mictuning and saw how vague it was too. That's why I pasted the other one into my reply. Makes me question if their product is any good.

 

You don't need a big fuse. I'm pretty sure a 5 amp would be adequate. You're only switching the relay.

 

Well the wiring harness seems to be a decent quality. All the connectors are of good quality and the use loom to cover up most of the wires. The relay is made so that the wired cannot be yanked out of the bottom and also not letting in moisture of any kind. Hopefully it holds up over time.

I figured it wasn't anything big. Thanks for the response. I'm gonna go with the 5 amp.

 

Got it! Thanks L J that's exactly what I was looking for!

 

You're welcome. Check the circuit you decide to use to power the switch with a meter. Someone said the PWR Outlet fuse is not switched power. I thought it was but could be wrong.

 

That is correct, I ended up using Ignition #2