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LED Light Bars

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by ToyotaKTMracing, Oct 17, 2012.

  1. Jan 3, 2014 at 10:32 AM
    #821
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    What about these relays now?,,,
     
  2. Jan 3, 2014 at 10:42 AM
    #822
    STiLL WILL

    STiLL WILL MY NAME ISN'T WILL

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    Yes, I sold my '13 Taco. :'(
    I'm a huge wiring newbie, but what my brother(who wires up and decommissions cop cars for a living) told me the gist of it is---using the relays just eliminates the need to run an additional power wire into the cab, among other advantages he told me about that flew right over my head lol. So all we did was run 2 ground wires(one for the LED bar relay, one for the Dually D2 relay) into the cab attached to the switches on the console. Install of the wiring went something like this:

    bro: "Hey run this wire into the cab, and connect it here to the switch"
    me: "ok"
    bro: "Now do it one more time for the other switch."
    me: "ok"

    :eek:

    Sorry in advance for being so "circuit stupid" when it comes to explaining it haha. It's beyond my forte.

    EDIT: this is the best I could find for my lack of an explanation of using relays lol---> http://www.rattlebars.com/avalanche/relay_basics.html
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2014
  3. Jan 3, 2014 at 2:24 PM
    #823
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    LOL- ah, yeah. Thats normal. I thought he had some OTHER "special" relays other than what we were using.
     
  4. Jan 3, 2014 at 2:35 PM
    #824
    STiLL WILL

    STiLL WILL MY NAME ISN'T WILL

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    Yes, I sold my '13 Taco. :'(
    Yeah figured it was haha.

    My LED bar didn't come with anything but a power and a ground wire lead so we made a custom relayed harness for that. The dually D2's came with a harness but we(mostly my brother lol) re-wired it using the relay it came with and a different switch since I wanted the switches to be identical and I didn't need the switch to be lighted.

    :)
     
  5. Jan 3, 2014 at 3:52 PM
    #825
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    my 2 6" SR2 bars didn't come with Relays either. If they are under a certain amp draw, a relay is not warranted. Now when you increase the load, you do not want the regular switch doing all the 'heavy lifting'. Referencing the amperage. Could cause a fire or melt the switch. Having a switch that engages the solenoid, removes the switch from being the 'heavy lifter'. Now the switch is just engaging the electromagnet in the relay. Thus the RELAY is the switch for the heavy load now.

    I made a 'custom' harness for my 2 6" SR2 bars also. Tying them into each other so one switch controlled them both.
     
  6. Jan 3, 2014 at 3:54 PM
    #826
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    Not downplaying what he did for you. That is awesome that he took some time for family and used his expertise to do so.
     
  7. Jan 3, 2014 at 4:57 PM
    #827
    STiLL WILL

    STiLL WILL MY NAME ISN'T WILL

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    Yes, I sold my '13 Taco. :'(
    For some reason I actually understood that last post. ;)

    Good way of putting it!
     
  8. Jan 3, 2014 at 8:55 PM
    #828
    06HAOLE

    06HAOLE Well-Known Member

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    How did you pop the switch blanks out? I want to do my switches like that.

    Used the 2 dummy blanks in the center console for my switches.

    IMG_20131221_162851_1_zps18957f6a_b90004a91e9e97ebb89ba5bab7c97e083119bbbd.jpg[/QUOTE]
     
  9. Jan 3, 2014 at 9:03 PM
    #829
    Bsheriff11

    Bsheriff11 Remember Your ABC's. Always. Be. Casual.

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    [/QUOTE]


    Two ways, either pop the HVAC control panel off, reach your hand/fingers back there and give them a firm push, or, run a dry wall type screw into the blank and pull it out that way. I recommend taping off the plastic dash to avoid scratches, it's too easy to do.
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2014
  10. Jan 3, 2014 at 9:05 PM
    #830
    Bsheriff11

    Bsheriff11 Remember Your ABC's. Always. Be. Casual.

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    Question though, I have a '12 sport and had pre-wired harnesses behind the far left and far right blanks. Anyone know what those are for?
     
  11. Jan 3, 2014 at 9:15 PM
    #831
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    Not sure, did you look at some pics of other same model year? Heated seats? Aux in? USB in? Alarm sensor for the glass break? Call button for bluetooth?
     
  12. Jan 3, 2014 at 9:19 PM
    #832
    skygear

    skygear                    

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    In the past, I just use a nice long sharp pocket knife or a 'HOOK' tool for removal. Pick a corner, and gently work the tool in between the blank and the plastic of the dash. then 'poke' the side of the blank with the implement you just worked in there and pop it out towards you.

    Alternatively, if you know you will be drilling it, and know where on the blank you want your hols, start the process with it in the dash and then use a hook, or nail and remove the blank that way once the hole is drilled.

    There are also nylon tools used in electronics. They are ~$1 each. Called Nylon Pry bars. They work wonders and leave no marks too.
     
  13. Jan 3, 2014 at 9:22 PM
    #833
    skygear

    skygear                    

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  14. Jan 3, 2014 at 9:57 PM
    #834
    STiLL WILL

    STiLL WILL MY NAME ISN'T WILL

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    Yes, I sold my '13 Taco. :'(
    [/QUOTE]

    Just removed the paneling and reached behind and undid the clips to the blanks.
     
  15. Jan 4, 2014 at 2:16 AM
    #835
    YotaOverAll

    YotaOverAll Backyard Performance

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    Anybody heard anything about All4Offroad?
     
  16. Jan 4, 2014 at 11:45 AM
    #836
    06HAOLE

    06HAOLE Well-Known Member

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    Two ways, either pop the HVAC control panel off, reach your hand/fingers back there and give them a firm push, or, run a dry wall type screw into the blank and pull it out that way. I recommend taping off the plastic dash to avoid scratches, it's too easy to do.[/QUOTE]

    [/QUOTE]

    Thanks a lot for the info. Im a caveman with the finishing touches of an install and this will let me close out the install right.
     
  17. Jan 4, 2014 at 8:20 PM
    #837
    Rockbmx1

    Rockbmx1 Well-Known Member

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    Icon Coilovers, Bilstein 5125, Camburg UCA's, Icon Progressive ADD, 1.5" tapered blocks, Glasstite Topper, Uniden 980SSB CB Radio, H&R 1.5" Wheel Spacers, AEM CAI, Vision X LED's, JW Speaker LED's.
    I bought some Vision X led lights a bit a go, and installed them this week. I'm going to do a full write up on these lights since they don't seem to have as many reviews as Rigid lights. I will just say that they are awesome for now, it's truly incredible how much light they produce. I have about 35,000 lumens being churned out from the lights, so keep that in mind too.
     
  18. Jan 4, 2014 at 8:46 PM
    #838
    mudsicle

    mudsicle Member

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    Make sure to include pictures of what's infront of the truck and not just the truck itself please
     
  19. Jan 4, 2014 at 8:47 PM
    #839
    mudsicle

    mudsicle Member

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    I mean, I'm assuming you're gonna include pictures :p
     
  20. Jan 4, 2014 at 9:45 PM
    #840
    NightProwler

    NightProwler Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I personally think they have to be the best out there. They're reflectors and LEDs are so much better. I'm curious to see your pics. As I planned on buying some vision x products myself. Specifically the xmitter prime extreme with 5 watt LEDs. 43" puts out over 38k lumens!!! Crazy. But, its like $2k. Idk if I wanna do that or a china knock off of the evo prime with 10 watt LEDs. 40" is around $400. I could do 2 and stack em and have 40k lumens for like $800. Hmm.. Well hurry up andshow us them beasts!!!
     
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