LED's on tacoma!!

ok i found the link someone posted for those switches.. thank you, and they look nice. but ill stick to my $6 ones, $39 is a little bit more.

OP i really like the light bar you made, i am curious does it have to be 40" or could it be 44" or 46"

What does one cost? I have a 30" rigid E in the bumper now and its just too expensive to get a 40 inch for the roof, however i like that yours looks quality unlike many of the less expensive or alternate brands.

In my pic above is my first LED bar i believe, it was an unknown brand before i got the rigid its nearly identical minus the bolts around the front.

 

For my self i think im going to put a 30" in the bottom was think about the top but i dont know

 

A 40" bar for me would cost 440$ with a wiring harness, you could always do a single row which would be a little less but if you want the look of the double row then thats different, but i have compared my light up yo a rigid and mine was pretty close to the same, i mean yea rigid has the hammer proof lenses and stuff like that but i doubt you'r gonna get a big enough rock to hit that and cause damage, but pm me if you're interested about the specifications

 

Also in my pics i posted i have the bar pointed down quite a but because i was on the street but if i was on a dirt road the bar would shine further than posted

 

Those wires are for the Factory Heated Seats which are offered in certain areas and wired to switches in that panel.

 

Thanks for the specific answer

 

I had to eliminate the LED function due to the way that I installed my aftermarket lights. I used an auxiliary fuse block (the Blue Sea piece). As such, I wired my KCs directly to the fuse block for both the main power and the lamp trigger. This gave me the option of turning on the lights w/o having to turn on the truck. Because of that, the switch is always hot. The LED pulls power from wherever you connect your signal trigger. Since my signal trigger is always hot, the light is always on. Both LED wires are linked together. The reasoning is that the thought that you will connect the signal to something that is only illuminated when the lights are on (think the illumination wire for your low beams), so it can gain it's signal from this point as the trigger is not a particularly high amperage circuit.

That being said, because my switch is always live, the LED is always live, so even when my truck is off, the switch is illuminated. In addition, I found the LED to be painfully bright (about the same as the Daystar units I had in my old '93 Xtracab) which were very distracting on a dark road. I could go back and eventually connect the switch illumination to a switched source to light them up at night, but that would involve chasing a lot of wiring around my dash, something I'm not really interested in doing at the moment.

I got them from Tundra Part

Sorry for the late reply.

 

No problem, thanks

we all miss a thread or 3 ahah

The led's on my $6 switches burned out anyway Lol

 

My light bar is now wired with the factory rigid harness and a replacement swtich (i already had it in the dash) and it is direct powered key or no key.

 

Does anyone have a picture of the black plastic heated seat blanks after they were removed? I noticed that there are some prying marks in some of the above pictures, and I'm hoping to avoid this kind of damage when replacing mine with the TundraPart.com switches. Knowing how they attach might help.

Thanks!

 

the best way to avoid pry marks on the blanks is to remove them from the back.

Otherwise just be carefull, but you will usually end up with a little marking somwhere.

 

^if you look at the picture of mine above, the mark on the left switch hole is actually from wire crimp tool not from removing my blanks. I pulled my switch first and used my finger to pop the blanks out.

 

Anybody know how some attach a 40" double row LED light bar to their OEM roof rack? Looks clean like the roof mount brackets.

 

so on my 2012 the thing behind the first blank is for heated seats? i wonder if anyone has done that mod?

sorry for off topic. i get excited about pre-wiring for heated seats. i have the Wet Okole heated seat and i like it. i would definately throw $$$ at a factory wired option.