Leer 122 on a 3rd Gen... Anyone have a picture???

The bay windows make it feel very open which I appreciate for camping. But it might be handy to reach in the sides - totally depends on your use case.

 

How does the Leer 122 compare to the Leer 180 as far as leaks are concerned? Do you have to caulk both of them?

 

Been waiting over 3 months for my leer.

 

This is a Cap-It Bulldog, almost the exact same shape as the Leer 122. They replaced with a Leer 122 after the Bulldog damaged my vehicle bedsides and cut massive slots that rust now grows all over (Yes they're covering it).

No photos of the Leer, but it is MUCH better quality to say the least. However it has just as many quality issues, luckily no damage. Gaping brake light hole, leaks in the windows... Hoping to have them credit something that isn't fibreglass at this point since they'll be getting a free $4500 canopy from replacement.

 

My Leer 122 required sealing on solid cab-end window, the door was off-centre, and the gap for the third brake light is so massive you're likely to get snowed on through it. Over all I did a ton of waterproofing, and I mean a TON - body and canopy.

It's pretty common with any canopy to need to do waterproofing on the truck, however with fiberglass there's a lot more quality control issues in the manufacturer molding/cut outs/seals. Both fibreglass canopies I've had have been bad and enough to warrant quality call-backs and replacements. Waiting on something aluminum or steel now, preferably an RSI Smartcap honestly.

-Used butyl tape for the brake light and window on the exteriors as a waterproof gap filler.
-Silicon caulked the bed rails: both sides and cab-end, inverter cubby by taping off the lid/cover edges, let the bead get a nice skin while it was quite gummy still and placed the lid in, closed it, locked it for added pressure, and then let it sit for about 12 hours before removing it; not a drop of water comes through.
-Sealed the hatch with a thick garage door seal with two spined edges - cut one spine off plus some width a little longer than the door and attached it to frame on the body of the canopy. As the door closes, the seal folds underneath it and conforms with the tailgate spoiler fitment piece.

Usually needs something stuffed into the top edge of the tailgate to keep it dry still, but still a major improvement.

 

Pretty much finished my build in a Leer 122. Features include:

Diesel heater
Maxxair ceiling fan
USB rechargeable water pump
250 ah lithium battery system
2000 watt pure sinewave inverter
House battery charges from the alternator, with option to add solar panels
Cooking is electric: water kettle, george foreman grill, small rice cooker
Latex mattress with memory foam topper
110 volt outlet plus 12 volt and USB in the camper
Bomb-style automatic fire extinguishers in furnace box and electrical system compartments
Oak footboard (still needs screwing on) to keep the mattress in place


I am really surprised to find that adding all that cabinetry somehow makes it feel bigger inside, not more cramped. The 122 is an excellent choice to build out a camper that doesnt compromise the usefulness of the truck in any way.

How-to details in my build thread

 

TacomaWillow,

can you put a link to your build thread here? I have a 122 and your set up looks fantastic!

 

Thanks! Here it is:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacomawillows-camper-build-camper-done-for-now-dog-bonus.775967/

 

Thanks! Just viewed entire thread. Gonna steal your rv rain channel idea for back door hatch, giving you full credit of course!

 

The rain channel fixed the main problem, but there are other issues with the back hatch design that I'm fixing now, so if you have any of those check my thread in a week or so. Basically the way the factory mitered the inner channel and outside drip edge leaves a (completely unnecessary) 1"x.5" gaping hole to the outside. I'm trying to modify it without making it look too monstrous.

 

I know the gap of which you speak! I can even see them through the rear view mirror! Just don’t make them like they used to.

 

I had my dealer send photos to the manufacturer, but I'm very confident they are not going to do anything about it.

 

Yeah, some kind of extension from the ends of the hatch that molds to shape of topper would have been nice and probably pretty easy for the manufacturer to modify, but we can dream….
In the meantime, I look forward to your ingenuitive ideas!

 

I plan to use this along the lower drip edge, and extend it off the edges as far as the factory shape should have gone.

 

Good idea! Feel free to share your method of installation.

 

This was a complete failure, don't bother. First, The material wouldn't stick to UHB tape at all. But also, once I had cut it with the flared ends I was sure would close the gaps, well, it just didn't. Even if it had adhered, this was not the fix needed to close the gaps. Back to the drawing boards.

 

A wise Yoda once said;

“failure, the best teacher is”