Leer Cap Ordering...what to include?

I just had a shell installed this week. I looked at ARE and they seemed great too but the SnugTop guy had lower lead times and was more local. Here's the lowdown:

I got the Sport Hi-Liner which is ~4 or 5 inches above cab height (I'll be sleeping back there)
Sliding vented windoors both sides
Carpeted interior
Fold down sliding front window
Pro lock (throw-in)

Regarding the windoors on both sides: I was debating whether or not I wanted to go with windoors on both or one side, ended up springing for both. I knew in the first 5 minutes of having the shell that I made the right choice there and would have heavily regretted getting only one side, as they are absolutely awesome and I can tell I'll be using them more often than the main rear door.

Mine came with a standard LED light which is actually pretty bright but anything beyond that I agree with you, I'd rather install myself to suit my needs.

I wanted to spring for roof racks but I figured I'd wait until I establish a need for them.

For reference my cost was $2609 installed. ARE was $400-$500 cheaper.

These things are pricey but if you're going to keep your truck for a long time you won't regret saving a bit longer and springing for exactly what you want.

http://i.imgur.com/WCFUjNj.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/NBYj4BK.jpg

 

I will have to check. Be aware that at the moment I have 2 different kinds of bars. I have the Yakima Whispbar on the front, and the Thule square bars on the cap. The Whispbar has some arc to it, while the Thule are completely flat.

A lot has to do with the mounting feet. If the mounts are the same height, then no problem. If the feet are at different levels, then there with be height differences.

For my purpose, I do not have a need to have full contact on all 4 bars at one time. I will be carrying one set of items on the front bars, and a different set of items on the back bars. There may be an occasion to use all 4, but at the point the item being transported will probably be a raft and it will have some give to it.

I do have a plan on checking out under the "rain gutters" on the roof and see if I can find the factory mounting points (seen here) to see if I can replace the Whispbars with Yakima bolt on racks. I hate the racks that attach to the door frame. They always drift on me over time.

I will try to check the height differences given my set-up later (might be a couple days though).

 

I've had a LEER 100r and now a 100xl. Came with LED lighting, I ordered the fold down front window, added it to my original 100r about 6 years later . I loved them both and have absolutely no complaints. AREs were more expensive in Pittsburgh, Snugtop are not available here.

Remember, if you buy a LEER, go to their website and download their competitive discount coupon. Present it AT THE TIME OF ORDER, and they will deduct it from the sale price. I think mine was $50, we did it with my dad's flip up bed cover and it was even more off.

You will find that cap dealers typically wire the bed light into the parking lights which sucks IMO. I need to rewire mine so that I can use them anytime. My parking lights aren't on when I need my cap lights most times.

 

Mine are not. I have 4 Thule square bars. If I place a 2x4 on the cap bars, it sits 1/4" to 1/2" above the back cab bar. The front cab bar is even lower, since the roof curves down in the front. It will probably depend on the specifics of your set up though. I have Front Runner tracks on my cap. The Thule tracks may sit at a different height, so that could affect the bar height.

 

Yep, I didn't order the drop down window and my cap has been on since 2006. Despite pushing a sponge through and squirting soap and water between the cab and shell it's pretty nasty. I need to reseal the thing anyways so whenever I get back to the US it's on my list of things to do.

I wanted hooks on the ceiling of my shell so I used some D ring style picture hangers (ex. http://www.lowes.com/pd_264575-37672-122318___?productId=3029190&pl=1&Ntt=d-ring+picture). Just open up the hole nearest the ring to fit the bolt from my roof rack tracks; no need to take the bolts out and disrupt the sealant. I used them on my last truck as well and they work well for attaching a net, paracord, gear hammock or whatever.

Gluing the caps on the ends of the bars is not actually a bad idea. Both Yakima and Thule used to not coat the insides of their bars- that may have changed, I don't know. Anyways, they get moisture in them and they will rust from the inside. On my brother's recommendation, I took some extra paint I had and poured it in the bars, rolled them around, emptied them out and let the paint dry then smeared a little silicon on each cap before putting them back on. The plastic coating on the bars only last so long before the UV dries it out and they start cracking so it's also going to be time to replace my bars whenever I get back. The rollers on the Hully Rollers get tacky like putty as well; they make a sticky mess then peel off.

 

If I did it over again I would order the model with the high roof. If you intend for your fur babies to ride in bed, get the pet screens

 

Have any of you ever removed the window screens all together to let your dog hang their head out?

 

I had to order some brackets that converted it over. I used rack attack. Their customer service guy knew what I needed. Give them a call.

 

This was a great thread, I just came across a leer top last week and bought it. It was at a used car lot and I got it for 300 dollars. It was blue and my truck is MGM but I've removed the windows and preped it for paint. I've gotten paint quoted at 100 dollars a quart if I do it myself and waiting on a quote from a local body shop. I never really considered a top but now that I have it I'm very excited and planning what upgrades I would like to make.

 

I apologize if this has already been mentioned. I recently bought a 2015 DCSB with a Leer 100 XR. The interior light is wired so that the cap requires that the key is in the "ON" position for the light to work. My suggestion would be to have that light wired so it's always hot. I understand the pros and cons of wiring it either way, that's just my opinion.