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LEER Cap wiring

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by tacoman00, Aug 30, 2021.

  1. Aug 30, 2021 at 3:08 PM
    #1
    tacoman00

    tacoman00 [OP] Your Average Joe

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    Toytec BOSS 2.0 lift, 18x9 Fuel Rebels, 32” BFG AT K02.
    Hey everyone,

    I placed an order for a Leer 100XQ for my truck today. I was wondering about wiring.. hoping some electricians can help me out! Does anyone know how exactly they wire up the 3rd brake light? I’m assuming they’re gonna pull power from the taillights because that only makes sense…which leads me to my next question, I also have the MESO stage 1 taillight kit enroute and was wondering if that T-harness will mess things up when it comes to tapping power for the shell?

    thanks in advance for the help!
     
  2. Aug 31, 2021 at 5:30 AM
    #2
    tacoman00

    tacoman00 [OP] Your Average Joe

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  3. Aug 31, 2021 at 5:44 AM
    #3
    Llama_Taco23

    Llama_Taco23 Active Member

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    Not an electrician, but I have a leer 100XR on my 2020 off road premium. When my leer dealer performed my installation, the extent of the wiring for the 3rd brake light was splicing into the tail light harness. Whatever aftermarket harness you have they may have to cut the loom for access to the wiring but that’s just my observation from watching the install.
     
    Dfpftw and tacoman00[OP] like this.
  4. Aug 31, 2021 at 6:47 AM
    #4
    NoVa TRD Sport

    NoVa TRD Sport Well-Known Member

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    Leer cap
    Leer caps come with a fuse box on the driver's side rear corner. It has inputs for Ground, 12 volts, and brake light circuit, as well as the optional remote lock connections.

    There are two ways to wire these inputs. The cheap way (used by most installers) is to tap into the existing brake light wiring. The expensive (and best) way is to use the Leer no-tap harness that plugs into the trailer connector (behind the bumper). Either way, you're going to have to run a wire directly to the battery for the constant 12 volts for the dome light. Running that wire along the frame and up into the engine compartment is probably the hardest part of the job.

    I had to drill a hole above the bed light for the wiring to emerge from behind the fender. What you see in the picture below is the optional Leer 12-volt accessory outlet. The fuse box is hidden to the left, behind the rubber door flange. The wire harness snakes around, under the lip of the cap.

    IMG_0141b.jpg
     
  5. Nov 6, 2021 at 5:49 AM
    #5
    metalramp

    metalramp New Member

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    I just purchased a 100XQ that I need to wire. So you're saying ideally get a no-tap harness to plug into the trailer connecter & wire to the battery for the dome light?

    My 100XQ has remote unlock— is there additional wiring that needs to be performed? I've been unable to find any info about this online.
     
  6. Nov 6, 2021 at 12:31 PM
    #6
    tacoman00

    tacoman00 [OP] Your Average Joe

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    the Leer dealer installed mine and used what the company refers to as a “7-way” to wire it. This 7 way powers my 3rd brake light and inside the cap light, so I’m assuming it could power your lock also. Look on the Leer website. It appear to run directly from the battery.
     
  7. Nov 6, 2021 at 12:35 PM
    #7
    TwinTaco31719

    TwinTaco31719 Well-Known Member

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    My dome light powered from my battery and then they did a positive wire splice to the rear left taillight blue wire that ran to the 3rd brake light
     
  8. Nov 21, 2023 at 6:52 PM
    #8
    mrCanoehead

    mrCanoehead Well-Known Member

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    Not sure if you're still around. Maybe somebody else can provide clarity if not.

    This morning I was in the hotel parking lot fixing the broken wires to my brake light. Miserable job - cold and windy. I'm glad Toyota provided the bed inverter outlet to power the soldering iron I bought.

    A while after I got the Leer cap, I discovered the Leer dealer used vampire taps and when I called to question this, the shop eventually agreed to install the Leer #300200 TAG 7-way harness mentioned above. Afterward they said have been using taps for 20 years and implied I'm an idiot. I thought that was the end of it.

    It's a year later and I'm not sure when my driver's side brake light stopped working. You can see from the pic that 2 of the.wires were broken. Looks like they might have broken when the vampire taps were removed, and were twisted together and taped. The third wire broke while I was repairing the other 2. Before I took the pic I had cut off the bare wire ends at a rest stop along the highway so they would not short on anything.

    I made (crappy) linesman splices following the NASA procedure. Used heat shrink over them. The driver's side brake light works again.

    However, the high center mount light on the cap doesn't work. Neither does the dome light. The T harness looks fine.

    Is it likely that the 12 V wire to the battery is the problem? The fuse near the battery is not blown. I don't care about the dome light right now. I need to get the high center mount brake light working - the weather is bad here and there are tons of 18 wheelers with questionable brakes about.

    8F0EAF71-B7EA-41F8-BA1B-5852977523B0.jpg 1BD8399A-4C56-4152-9BCF-200ADA22E4FB.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2023
  9. Nov 21, 2023 at 7:14 PM
    #9
    ScottThePainter

    ScottThePainter Well-Known Member

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    FBC Harness Solutions. He’s on here. I used his taillight harness for my third brake light and it’s great.

    https://fbchs.square.site/
     
    joshtree likes this.
  10. Mar 25, 2025 at 1:32 PM
    #10
    kgree3

    kgree3 New Member

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    Hi Scott,
    I purchased the 3rd brake light harness before the store went off line. Would you happen to have some step by step instructions or know of a video that might help me with this install? i have not done something like this before and would really appreciate the extra information. Thanks so much:)
     

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