Left Foot High Beam

Thank you, Sir!

 

@mgord

Had you thought about purchasing a new Tacoma? I'm pretty sure they invented Automatic High Beams for this exact reason you mention...

 

If I were doing it, I wouldn’t use flash.

 

Not to hi-jack but...



What's the best rust stripper or converter or solution for something that has begun to rust beyond just surface stuff, some mild pitting etc in a hard to access location where you can't get down to bright steel as there's no tool access?

Is there a recommended at home rust dissolver or chemical means for something too large to feasibly dunk for electrolysis?

 

Will get to this in the next week or so. Just finished putting a JDM engine in a Subaru Outback after determining the existing engine was beyond saving. Cracked head and both were warped. Cheaper to buy a JDM engine. Runs like a champ now.

 

Just a thought. How about keeping the factory wiring and lights as is. Mount a couple off-road lights and use the foot switch for that?

I have used the foot switch for the horn in my single seat race car and have one in my motorhome for the off-road lights. It's fun walking into Autozone asking for the switch and they ask, "what year, model is this for?". I tell them, 1972 Ford Van.

 

$31 Corroseal-82320 Water-Based Rust Converter Metal Primer, Rust Converter - 1 Qt

https://www.amazon.com/Corroseal-Water-Based-Converter-Primer-82331/dp/B001CRFYG0?th=1

 

My '69 D100 has the floor dimmer, as did my old '84 W150. It's something that I wonder about as well, since they'd be even more suited to a modern vehicle since most everything is an automatic these days. They can be something of a pain with a stick shift, due to the clutch demanding regular left leg attention (I've been rolling up to a stop sign with the clutch in and my high beams on when somebody appeared from the other direction, for instance). But they're both manageable. And if it was a factory-installed thing, the floor penetration would be a non-issue. It'd work well with the modern 'hands free' mindset, too.

 

Why not? How would you do it?

 

Here is what I posted earlier in this thread.

 

Although it's impressive that you have inside information to the internal workings of the body ECU, doing it your way will still have unexpected results. The most obvious problem is that the internal relay will remain energized indefinitely if you shut the truck off with the high beams on. Whether or not the high beams stay on is unknown since you didn't include the internal happenings of the head relay circuit when flash is engaged. I stand by my opinion that the proper way to do this is to use a switch that grounds the red/green wire, just as Toyota engineered the circuit to work, when you flip the lever to high beam.

 

Your Voo Doo has crystal ball attributes, seeing the future for all who add the 1960's switch and leave it ON without perceiving the High Beams illumination.
The ECU has a feature which I'm very certain you've seen in the tea leaves that the lights go off when you open the driver's door. But when all is off and you actuate any position on the stalk, it stays ON...

It's difficult to anticipate ALL the variables; OEM Alarm, Aftermarket Alarm, Intelligent & perceptive DIY, etc. So I leave that to you.

 

I'm not going to argue any more on the possible adverse side effects of your way, but I am genuinely curious on the motive for your way.

Please explain just 1 advantage to grounding the red/white wire instead of the red/green wire. Without trying it, nobody here knows what will happen if you duct tape the turn signal lever in the flash position and leave the truck for a few days.

 

See, I leave that up to you.
Please post a pic of your vehicle with duct tape in the stalk...But post it on Friday.

 

After careful verification, I have to agree the best High Beam selection wire is RED & GREEN.

 

I finished this last night. I'm happy to confirm it works as described, and both locations still work.
Red/Green wire from under the bottom steering column clamshell (right at the turn signal/headlight stalk connector) to the top post on the floor switch, and one of the bottom posts to ground. Easy-peasy.
Thanks to @caribe makaira and @Muddinfun for the helpful debate.

 

I actually thought about going this route for funsies. But unfortunately I know myself all too well. Any foot mounted switch would be an instant "fuck you" device in traffic. Once upon a time when I tooled around in the Bronco, whenever a cavalier shitbox wanted to shave my front bumper there was just a little bit of satisfaction giving that guy a hardy foot stomp. It felt better when it came from my foot somehow. One foot to stop 3 tons of steel on 4 undersized drum brakes, and the other foot to voice my displeasure at having to do so.

I love the project though. Its a cool idea.

 

Nice!!! I'm going to tackle this this weekend. Just finished another project.

Did you have to remove the airbag?