Left front tire sounds like a snow tire or I'm driving on gravel

I can hear it best when I am turning right. Also, the axle has in & out play at the hub. I recently replaced the wheel bearing. Defective?

 

ADD correct, did you press in the wheel bearing? What torque on the CV nut?

 

Yes. I pressed in the bearing. 173 ft/lb.

 

I am trying to think through where you would be getting the noise from since the hub has no preload nut and just the cv nut. How about the brake dust shield or siezed piston in the caliper?

 

I removed all the remnants of the brake dust shield when I replaced the bearing. Pistons are fine. No grabbing.

 

you shouldn’t have any play at the outer cv joint by the hub though, it should be snugged up on the backside of the knuckle when torqued down. The only play should be at the diff. Perhaps something didn’t seat correctly. I wonder if you recheck the cv nut if it is still toqued down now or has it developed play as well behind the cotter pin. Did you use a Koyo bearing?

 

I'd pull the wheel and spin it by hand. If the bearing is that bad, you'll probably feel it. Pulling the caliper might help too.

 

I drove for a day or so & then double checked the torque, however can't hurt to check it again. & yes, in fact it is a Koyo.

 

Sorry, I’m all out of Schlitz, wish I could help more.

 

The caliper is off.
Lemme try asking this or hopefully I can explain it well enough. The difference I have noticed between the left & the right - If I grasp one lug nut stud on each side of the hub & give it a little rotational back & forth jerking kind of movement, the left hub is very loose as compared to the right. Any significance?

 

Thank you....

 

Kristi, that just sounds to me like the spindle didn’t get completely pressed into the bearing far enough. You should be able to see the outer seal mated up against the knuckle on the backside of the hub though. There shouldn’t be any gap there at all. This is why I like the manual preload nut setup better.

 

I wonder if it would help to raise the control arm prior to tightening the nut. I have had a lot of problems getting that side squared away. Well, both sides to some degree, however 240,000 miles later & one should expect some guff. The axles or parts related have been particularly challenging. The last axle I tried on the left pulled out of the hub as well. I have differential mounts on order. I am not sure if there's anything going on there that would affect axle stability, however my bushings are pretty shot.

 

So we're pretty sure/sure it's not the bearing, correct? Or at the very least I should try shoring up the nut & see if that takes care of it before thinking bearing again?

 

My opinion is that the spindle may not be all the way pressed in. The cv nut won’t be able to cinch it down at all, it will need to go back into a press to seat it if that is actually the case. The cv nut can be torqued to spec but if the spindle isn’t seated properly then it won’t matter. The Koyo are OEM as you know and sealed bearings. Unless it was pressed in outside of some point not on the race itself then I would be very surprised if it were the bearing but you would hear the bearing by simply spinning it if it were rough enough to make the sound like you are hearing and feeling.

 

Ok. I see. I was confused by "spindle". I was thinking axle. You were talkin' hub. I picked up the loaner press I used to do it the first time, so I can easily see if there is any wiggle room I missed.

 

This is how I pressed in the bearing. The adapter sat perfectly on the outer race.

 

no issue with the bearing, the c clip either fits or it doesn’t, the spindle or hub as you say that gets pressed into the bearing is where I think the issue resides. I use a 20 ton air over hydraulic press with PB blaster prelude and wheel bearing grease and even then sometimes have to re-attack after the first engagement to seat it properly inside the bearing. The cv nut won’t seat it and it will just continue to wobble around. This is why ADD crew can’t just pull a bad CV on the trail and go but the manual hub guys can.

 

I believe I've seen this pic before and couldn't make sense of it.

You changed an ADD hub bearing without taking the spindle (whole assembly) off the truck and pressing everything flat?


I didn't think that was possible with the way the hub/bearing has to press back and forth.

 

I was asked if I took pics when I did the right one. I had not. So this is the left. I also used Timmy’s vid as a guide & for tips, etc.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/front-wheel-bearing-replacement-diy-using-loaner-kit.716571/