Length of 3.5 degrees caster?

Hey guys
When going to 3.5 degrees of caster how far does that actually move the wheel forward? Trying to Google this but I'm apparently not searching the right phrases. What all plays into this

Running 285 75 16 geolanders on ray 10s w - 12 offset, 2 in lift with factory uca and lcas. Rubbing on body mount and fender flare.

 

It depends. Maybe none, maybe an inch. The lower Cams can rotate to move the wheels forward.

3.5 degrees doesn’t tell us much and there are a couple of different ways to achieve that.

 

d=rθ, and you get about half of d if you move only the lower ball joint forward to get 3.5 degrees.

 

I was under the impression the added caster allows to move the wheel forward towards the front end? I'm rubbing flexed on my body mount/corner of fender flare. How do I get the wheel moved forward then, with oem lcas.

 

Can i get an alignment with factory parts to move forward at al ? I need atleast a half inch.

 

@Dirk Diggler enlighten me

 

I'm out of my element on this one sorry

 

So can you get much adjustment? Why does everyone say they use spc ucas and stop rubbing? I'm so lost on this stuff

 

I'm still trying to get ahold of this too. Some manufacturers don't have them speced out either.

I DO know SPC let's you adjust everything under the sun. Plus side is it should work for any wheel BS as well as tire sizes up to 35" (at least from people using and posting)

Down side is it has more risk of knocking out an alignment. Perhaps some reinforcement is in order in that department.

Other UCA such as JBA high castor they are fixed in resulting in a max tire and BS (I believe it is 33" tire 4.75 BS) meaning less chance of it getting knocked.

Anyone else feel free to fix any corrections or elaborate more. So far this is more in line with what I've been able to find out.

Also dirt king has a UCA and LCA group buy running

 

Uca’s with added fixed caster (JBA, Dirt King etc etc) get the additional caster by moving the upper ball joint back (towards the rear of the wheel well). This will move the wheel/tire closer to the cab mount. These are great uca’s but just be aware that with 33’s (depending on wheel offset) you’ll most likely need to cmc....

The light racing spc uca has an adjustable upper ball joint (caster and camber). What many do is max out the caster on the LCA’s then “dial in” the adjustable caster on the light racing upper ball joint so that they get enough clearance for the cab mount. You may not get the 3-4* caster that you may want but....you’ll most likely still get 2-3* caster and get camber to whatever you may desire. And, may not have to do a cmc with 33’s (off course depending on wheel offset).

I can see where some may worry about knocking the spc uca’s out of adjustment with heavy wheeling. I’ve never had a problem but don’t do any heavy off-road. The upper ball joint nut is supposed to be torqued to I believe 180ft lbs. If it did move during hard wheeling, I would think the camber would be affected but not caster. Caster is adjusted via a positional inset steel plate.

 

It’s not necessarily just about caster. You need to rotate your lower cams to move the wheels all the way forward then adjust from there. SPC allows you to make adjustments as needed.

The amount of caster is irrelevant, as it’s about maximizing wheel space.

 

I'm super closer to rubbing here towards the cab. Planning a cmc, and ucas, hopefully w the adjustability I can get the wheel moved forward.

 

I thought you already had the CMC.

 

Nope. Still trying to get ahold of jim

 

But it's that fucking fender flare piece of plastic I'm worried about. I dont want to have to cut it all off

 

Heat gun and massage it back after the CMC

 

I don't think I can massage that red part anywhere.

 

If you just trim the inner edge and the very bottom it’s not really noticeable at all. Not a big deal really

 

Auburn offroad installed my spc ucas today and got it aligned. Told them to move the wheels are far forward as possible. Well they gained me atleast 3/4 of an inch I'd say, with my official measuring technique. Lol. After 33s and a lift now my alignment is spot in and it feels much better. Next, cmc, lol

 

Cut it weld it prime it paint it wheel it repeat