Let’s see some subwoofer setups!

Thank you sir!

 

That’s incredible work. I’m following along!

 

The “valet switch” works like so:

l - The HU powers normal as OEM was designed. Truck on, HU comes on and remote lead on HU powers DSP, which powers all amps.

ll - The HU powers on directly from AUX battery with truck’s ignition off. The keys could be in another state. System will power on and play as long as the AUX battery has juice.

O - The HU will NOT power on, so the DSP will not power on which will cause neither of the amplifiers to power on, therefore no boom-boom.

This way if I’m not around and other people have access to my keys, no monkey business will go down. The switch will be locked inside my console vault.

 

In the first mode is it ignition switched off the main battery or aux?

I’ve been tempted to do mine off aux as I already have an ignition switched aux fuse block.

 

The HU powered on from the main battery just like OEM. You need ignition on or engine running.

All the amps and DSP are directly powered from the auxiliary battery.

The second mode is for “off-line” or engine off music listening.

 

I am starting to wonder if you have water in your ears to need all that NavyDiver! LOL

OH, and those pillar covers are sweet!

 

The water eventually gets out.
Car audio is a thing I always enjoyed.

 

I got two JBL 10's in this custom box and amp is under the passenger seat. These things hit pretty hard.

 

I really like it. I am not a big bass head either. It’s simple and fills the cab well.

 

yes, after a lot of hemming and hawing I actually went with 8” subs, the JL CP208LG-W3v3. It’s a ported box and that’s why I went that direction. I never thought I would go with 8” subs. I never likes them, I always felt the minimum size for subs was 10” but I also much prefer ported enclosures and I like dual subs over a single (don’t we all). With the minimum space in the cabin, it’s just not physically possible to have all three of those preferences without sacrificing seating or doing serious modifications, neither of which is an option for me. So, I decided to give ported dual 8’s a shot and I’m very happy with the choice. I’m running 500w rms to them and they hit very nicely. Are they comparable to the dual, ported 12” w6s I used run in a blazer? Of course not, but I’m also not 20 years old anymore and I don’t need to rattle the mirrors on everyone else’s car, just my own, and they achieve that. Running the remote knob at about half way is perfect for most rock and metal and cranking it all the way up for hip hop brings a smile to my face. I’ve been busy with traveling for work in the past few weeks so I haven’t had a chance to get the install completed yet. The box is currently sitting behind front seats on the floor. I have to get it back behind the rear seats. I’m also considering swapping out rear fill from the current Morel Maximo coax 6 in favor of Memphis audio MJP6 subs for added mid bass. I feel like the coax speakers in the rear take away sound quality from the front JL C3-650 components. Once the box is in its final resting place I will post some pics here.

 

Finally was able to carve out the abs for my C7 mid-bass thanks for the advise!
Defintely have to be ready with different tools and buy materials I’m advance so some thought went in to this but well worth the effort.
Another concern was there was nothing behind the speaker preventing from water/moisture running in to the speaker; after I re-inspected after some heavy rain my speakers were as dried as new so definitely happy with the result not the way it looks but it fits the purpose

 

That was a concern of mine as well. I cut some speed rings in half and made rain shields. Not as robust as your abs ones but hopefully they’ll be good enough to handle any water that happens to get in there. I’m jealous of your C7’s. I just couldn’t bring myself to drop that kinda coin for car audio components. Was also afraid if I didn’t go full 3 way with dsp I wouldn’t be utilizing the full potential of their capability. I’m glad to hear they’re working really well for you. Who knows, maybe I’ll take the plunge sooner or later.

 

Does anyone have a Mr Marv 13.5jl in a third gen? I had one in my second gen and was by far the best thing I did. Now that I picked up a third gen looking into adding something again

 

Enluzenment, well I’ll tell you something if you get C2 6x9s and C2 3.5 coaxials in the dashboard tune them wit a DSP and you will get very close results in my opinion around 80 to 90% results as the c7s loud and clear just ensure to use plenty of dampening material.
But if you decide to go with the c7s I still recommend the 3.5 coaxials so you can get enough Mid frequencies up on the dashboard and is easier to balance your front stage (time alignment is easier to achieve with more mid frequencies than just highs). That’s why I removed the c7 tweeters and left the 3.5s in there. The second and most important recommendation is to ensure you feed the c7 mid bass with at least 150-175 watts **otherwise just stay with the C2s 6x9s 3 ways. I will emphasize this fact since/even though I was happy with the C7s at first I was feeling they were missing something, until I came across someone who was powering the C7s with 200 watts including the C7 3 inch and C7 tweeters.
I found an XD 600 amp (6 channel)bridged 4 channels to feed the mid bass and the last 2 channels for the tweeters and problem was solved.
If you have more questions reach out
Take care

 

I did. I upgraded to Gately but I have a box for sale

 

Got any pics? Price? Also what’s the gately?

 

I'd love to hear how the Gately box sounds. I got rid of my stealthbox JL setup and needed more. I contemplated the Maui sounds 6.5" subs but curious how you like your box @Gingerbeard Man