Let's see those Alu-cab setups

Hate to be the first one haha. Im deep in google currently praying for an answer

 

I haven't been able to find one yet myself.

 

the weight thing up top doesn’t matter to me, it’s going to be one long 4ft box which I haven’t seen in aluminum. Haven’t really looked though. Just trying to throw some stuff up there I’ll hopefully never use. Axles, fluids, some tools. Won’t be more than 60lbs probably plus the box.

 

This was the best that I could come up with, given my criteria, which aren't quite the same as yours.

Pelican Roof Box by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Pelican Roof Box by Michael Rickerd, on Flickr

Drilled through the bottom and bolted to the extrusion channel in my roof rack.

The box was expensive (Zarges/etc. were prohibitively expensive at this size), it isn't as large as it could be, but it's what the market had to offer.

I use mine daily while camping and I like it. Weathertight and relatively easy to access.

 

Ya this would be a little easier with a roof rack. But just with two load bars I'm stuck with very very few options.

They are currently 58" apart, which are setup that way to provide my awning with maximum support using two brackets... I could add another set of load bars and then I could get a smaller box. Or I could move my existing load bars closer together somewhat (maybe to 48" apart). Always something...sigh.

 

Yeah, I recall reading that earlier.

Are you using a 270 degree awning? Or a square awning with support poles?

If the latter, I wouldn't hesitate to bring the load bars in so that you can mount a box.

If you have a 270 degree, like a Shadow Awn, I would definitely keep them as near the ends as possible.

 

It's just a square 8ft ARB touring awning with the aluminum hard case. It's about 40lbs or so. The brackets are standard L brackets with gussets. As you can see in this pic, there's already a good 3' unsupported in front of the front load bar, that's probably the one I would move rearward. I don't see or feel any sag with this setup currently. I'm not concerned about support when deployed, it's more support while driving and over bumps. It does not stay on the truck full time, only for trips.

 

$54 Plano Storage Trunk - 108 Quart w/ Wheels (1819) - Hunter Green

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TY4AMZQ?ie=UTF8&th=1
i got one of these for like $25 last year. it went on sale again not too long ago. for the price it works. i wouldn't be afraid of drilling through it either. others have added weather stripping to keep water out.

 

Ya I'm not opposed to one of those cheap Plano cases, but they are too short. Needs to be about 50" internal to work, leaves me with about 2-3 options that I can find.

 

you may have seen this one? big/deep enough?

https://www.planooutdoors.com/rustrictor-all-weather-2-52-gun-case-1595445

https://www.planooutdoors.com/all-weather-2-52-long-gun-case-1595405

the second one was a little cheaper but looks like in store only

 

That looks like a good option. A little taller than the HF Apache Case of similar size. Thanks!

 

I cut an RV style roof vent in mine so can tell you what I know.

There's only aluminum skin on the outside (maybe 1/16" thick), which is supported with aluminum stringers that run the length and width of the roof. The long stringers on the long axis of the roof were about 14" apart, the exact width of the RV vent. There are stringers that go cross-ways too, they are maybe 18" to 20" apart. The areas that aren't stringers were filled with a foam mat and the whole deal is covered in that quilted headliner.

The easiest way to find the stringers is with a pin or sewing needle - just poke the headliner and you'll find them, barely leaves a mark in the headliner too.

Here's what pictures I had from when I cut the hole.

 

Thanks for sharing. Your definitely the first I know of to do it!

Are those Alu-cab branded load bars in that picture? They look different than mine.

 

No problem, hope it helps. I was definitely nervous obout chopping a hole in the roof of this thing but it's been nice having some ventilation in the camper when it's packed down.

As far as the bars, they're the 1"x3" t-slot from Tnutz. Just drilled them straight through and bolt down using carriage bolts that fit in the Alucab roof track.

 

Is anyone aware if the Alu-cab explorer canopy fits both the second gen and third gen tacomas? I’m finding conflicting information. OK4WD sells a version that they advertise as fitting 2005+.
https://ok4wd.com/alu-cab-explorer-canopy-for-2005-toyota-tacoma/

 

I can't answer this exactly, but I know the Canopy Camper is identical, it just has (2) sets of 'filler plates' to get the camper 'sealed' to the bed.

Probably not helpful, but that's what I know.

 

the rear hatch is different. Had someone local go through this and had to order the correct rear panel for it to work. Can’t remember which way they were trying to go but think the hatch wouldn’t latch because it hit the tailgate too soon.

 

Talked to Chuck at OK4WD who told me that they were different and that third gen owners that want the explorer will have to special order it because Alu-Cab is promoting the contour canopy now. Gave me an estimate of November for delivery of an explorer.

 

Have any finished photos of the roof vent fan?

 

Hey folks, seeking comments on an option to lower the profile of my iKamper Skycamp Mini 3.0 on Alu-Cab Contour canopy. Currently, the iKamper is mounted on Alu-Cab load bars which are attached to the Contour on 40mm feet. Without the feet in place, there would not be enough clearance above the canopy roof for the iKamper 3.0 mounting brackets. With the feet in place, the gap between canopy roof and iKamper is large enough to cause significant aero issues (sizable mpg drop). Wwe're only talking lowering my setup < 1.5" here (yes, I trend OCD). The option I am exploring is to replace the 40mm feet with flush feet (Alu-Cab load bars attached directly to Contour roof rails) and cut off the lower portion of the iKamper 3.0 brackets so they don't contact the roof. The brackets would still fully grip the load bar, there just wouldn't be as much material below the bar - only about 0.5". Obviously, this raises concerns about the integrity of the iKamper attach point...which is why I'm seeking opinions! Do you think an iKamper 3.0 bracket that grips only 0.5" below the load bar is a sound attachment? Other ideas?