Let's see your FJ case swap

Taking it out is the easy part. Putting it back in is the hard part.

 

I have extra steps because I have a URD exhaust, and a skid cross member to take off.

Im moving to the interior part now. Do i need to disconnect the shifter cable?

 

That part I don't know. Mine is a 5 speed so cables involved.

 

Auto base is cut. Going to cut a little more so i can access the shifter bolts from the top. There are 2 more bolts on the tcase than i can access from the top too. Then i can put the driveshafts back in

 

Wrapped up for tonight.
Tcase in, shifter in place with minimal rubbing.

I need to recut the pencil tray, finish wiring on the tcase sensors, finish glove box wiring, and get a different shift boot for the floor (the LX470 boot is too big and nice to hack up), and get a leather boot.

Then i also need to do the FJ tube to delete ADD.

I also found some other small issues like the studs from my cats are stripped. Need to replace those, along with new gaskets, and clamps.



Also, everything is functional, but theres a slight grind if Im in neutral, going from N to 4lo. Anyone else have similar issue?

 

@Littles do i need to cut the wires at the 4x4 ecu in addition to the sensors at the tcase, in order for my lights to stop flashing?

In that case, I've only done the tcase sensor wires as of today. Lights will still flash.

 

Yes. Need to disconnect the plugs from the 4wd ecu and then cut and splice the correct wires in that area.

do not plug the connectors back into the ecu

 

And selling this if anyone is attempting their install soon

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fs-lexus-lx470-shifter-boot.843427/

 

Brown/white wire was hard to find. I cut the white/black wire from plug A first. Was wondering why I didnt have 4lo light.

But got it fixed!

 

Nice! All you really have left is swapping the ADD out for the FJ tube right?

 

Yessir!

Turns out my FJ tube isn't in great shape. I think im going to need to helicoil the bolt holes for the arms. And of course replace the seal.

But I scored a "used" tube for $100, so i cant complain too much. Sold the rest of the diff to ECGS.

 

It's just some seasoning. Doesn't look that bad. If the bearing feels good and seal is alright, send it. It looks like you have some thread on one side. Might get away with some red locktite.

 

I think the bearing is ok? Theres a little bit of side to side play. Should it be solid? I could always do the poor man version of just sliding the collar over

 

I honestly don't recall whether or not there was side play but I did all new parts so I wouldnt have checked. You can wait to see how it compares to your ADD bearing when you pull it, and pick the better of the two. Might need a press or drop it off at a shop, but I know someone posted recently about using the heat/ freeze method successfully.

Worst case scenario if you go with it as is and theres a problem, you end pulling the tube again. If there's less than 150k on the diff and it doesn't feel too loose and no grinding, I'd send it for the $100 you spent. Or slide the collar. I didn't like the slide the collar idea at first, but I have come around to it. Hard to argue against it's free and it works. I have never heard anyone report that it slid out of position or had any problems with that method.

 

So on my tcase, i have a small grind when shifting from N to 4lo, when the trans is in N. Im not sure if thats normal, and its not all the time. I think i may need to change the fluid again. But there shouldn't be anything spinning

 

I have never had any grinding, but I'm a manual so my clutch is on the floor any time I'm pulling shifters. I would think in neutral nothing should be loaded, but someone with and auto can chime in

 

Might need to be forceful when shifting at a full stop with trans in N. @4x4Runner found your old post!

https://www.4runners.com/threads/shifter-grinds-engaging-4lo.8748/

 

The issue is because once the transfer case enters N from 4H, if the transmission N is more resistant, the engine will spin up the t-case input and planetary if you stay in N for any amount of time. So then when you pull the shifter further to go into 4L, the mode ring which is sitting still has to engage a spinning planetary, which is still being spun by the engine through the transmission. In other words, pretty much shift quickly from 4H to 4L to avoid grinds.

 

So the 4Runners and FJ Cruisers experience the same grinding if the shift isn’t done quickly?

 

Yes. Pretty common with all automatic transmissions and manual cases.

Being in park would mitigate this, but nobody wants to shift all the way to park.