Let's see your FJ case swap

I’m just spit balling here but Don’t you think you could fabricate some linkage to come off the gear under that little side cover on the t case actuator?

 

I agree it would take some fabricated parts for sure .

 

So why wouldn’t you just use the manual case out of a FJ or T4R? Toyota already did all the engineering and fabrication to allow it to be manually shifted.

 

Now I remember that thread! I actually posted on it too. Damn memory isn’t what it was.

 

I agree. If you’re going to have to remove the T case, split it and fab up a linkage, just put in a FJ case. Only way to save work and make sense would be to figure out a good way of replacing the actuator with a cable device that is properly sealed and has detents or a gate to allow shifting into the different selections. Without detents, I’d probably drive that thing into low range when running at 45mph. I did that once in a 82 Ranger going about 5mph. What a sound it made!

 

because it’s cheaper to swap in the fj case. A cable shifter for the elocker costs upwards of a few hundred.

 

I’d take an oem case with oem parts over something like this any day

https://www.chilkatdesigns.com/E-Racer.html

 

Jeez, that has to be real gold plate for the price.

 

I agree , I’m definitely doing the swap and add delete all factory parts . I like to work with off the shelf stuff but problem solving something like making a stock Tacoma t case manual shifted could be a fun challenge. Lol

 

Here’s a pic of my last Tacoma11’ with the twin stick Fj swap.


Here is a pick of my new Tacoma 09’ with single stick front reduction housing which I just finished this afternoon.

 

A challenge is always fun, but ill leave that to you to explore the manually shifting taco case I’ve had enough “fun” with dealing with those type of challenges. With only one shift rail, you’ll also never get the benefit of 2lo after all of that work.

 

Very clean looks good

 

That part is also for a rear e-locker to convert to manual and not for the ADD on the front diff.

 

Of course it is, but would give one the estimate for how much one for a transfer case or ADD would run. Again for that price you can buy an fj case and be done with it.

 

For that price you could have 2 FJ cases so you have a spare that you would pretty much never need anyhow

 

Is anyone aware of the differences between a part time 4wd Front diff and the FJ cruiser AWD front diff other than the ADD-less axle tube on the FJC? I am wondering if there are any issues running an AWD FJ case with the taco front diff and an FJ diff tube?

The reason i ask is because on ECGS' website, when configuring a front clamshell, it asks you to specify AWD or selectable 4wd. Just curious bc i am about to do the AWD swap this weekend

 

AWD diff doesn’t have needle bearings. What you intend should be just fine. Perhaps the concern is more the other way around, ie, using the AWD diff in a part time 4WD application with the diff stationary most of the time but the left CV and stub shaft spinning in it all the time

 

That may be a slight concern, but when you upgrade to an ARB, there are no needle bearings on either side so based on that feature I wouldn't think there would be any adverse affects. I've been running the AWD FJ tube up front with a part time tacoma front differential with ARB, and no issues in 4+ years.

 

Here's the tacoma front diff


FJ cruiser diff, shown with roller bearing with ADD feature


ARB does not specify a separate type of carrier for AWD or 4WD, both are the

$1,091 RD121 Air Locking Differential

RD121 for the 3.73 carrier and down and have a PFTE bushing in place of the needle bearing

 

Good point, interestingly enough (at least to me, lol) the Harrop elocker DOES have the needle bearings whereas the ARB - as you say - does not. But both are 4 pinion and either OEM carrier is 2 pinion