Level 8 MK6 hub too tight to mount

Took the wheels to mount at a local shop and they got the wheel on halfway and it stopped. They couldn't get it to seat on and running a lug nut on to try and help did nothing either. They had to gently tap with a rubber mallet til the wheel came off cause it wouldn't come back off by hand.

Anyone else had this issue on their truck? My truck is brand new so rust/grime can't be an issue here.

 

is the wheel powdercoated inside where it got hung up? had a buddy that got wheels PC'd, he got em on, but they were hard as heck to get off @Shibbyjeep we had to rubber mallet them off. @Marty65 hooked it up with a flapper and removed a small amount of material. Shouldn't have to do that on new wheels though, but, might be the issue

 

I'd talk to whoever sold you the wheels and see what they say/what the manufacturer says.

I had these wheels, no issues. The hub bore should be powdercoated, not bare.

 

Tried talking to someone at level 8 and they basically didn't believe the wheels don't fit on. There is very little paint. In fact when trying to fit them it rubbed enough so I could almost see the bare metal at the inside of the hub. The guy said they have never had a machining defect as if it can't happen.

 

Are the wheels new as well? Is this issue with one or all of the wheels? A long shot, but are you sure there are no hubcentric rings already installed onto the wheels? I'd be asking for replacements if they were new wheels.

 

Brand new wheels. Issue is with two wheels of the 4. I didn't bother unboxing the other two cause I'm sending them back. Going with a larger hub bore wheel and some rings if I need them down the line.

 

That's lame. My buddy has the same wheels on his 5th gen runner with no issues. Discount tire is a dealer for level 8 wheels. Maybe you can swing by to test out one of their mk6s.

 

They should be hub centric if new. Something else going on for them not to fit.

 

My LVL 8 MK6's have never had issues and I have had them for 3 years.

 

You want some @SCSPerformance wheels anyway.. you just don't know it yet.

 

I wish! The ones I want from them are never in stock.

 

He has a list, just gotta put your name on it and save yourself a spot.

 

I had the same problem with my Mk6s. Discount Tire mounted them up, and while installing a lift kit, the rears would not come off. Putting them back on proved to be an issue too. It seemed that between a thick layer of powder coat on the wheel and some rust on the brake drum/wheel hub didn't give enough clearance. I wanted to install mine sans center caps so scratching the powder coat was not an option. What we ended up doing was taking a wire wheel to the brake drum followed by removing just a hair of material off the hub with a sanding disk on an air grinder. You can probably get the same results with some 180 grit paper and a sanding block. After that they bolted up with no issues!

If they are still tight, you can try some anti-seize on the inner radius of the center of the wheel to help them slide over the rough cast surface of the axle hub.

Hope this helps!

 

What offset did you guys go with?

 

Mine are 0+

 

Anyone running the negative offsets?

is that to keep them as close to stock as possible?

 

No, 4.5 BS 0 offset is quite a bit different than stock. Stock Wheels are 5.75 BS

http://www.autoanything.com/wheels-rims/wheel-offset-vs-wheel-backspacing <-----Good info here

 

So are the 0 offset the ones you would recommend? I understood that negative offsets would give it a wider stance which appeals to me.

 

If you want wider stance get -10. I had 0 offset, they were about even with the stock fenders.

 

Like @T4RFTMFW said. Get the neg offset ones if you want a little more stance. I happen to like the 0 offset ones because they were just about flush with the fenders.