Level your truck right the first time also on the cheaper side!

If you just want to level learn from my first mistake. At first I put the 5100 Billy's on set at 1.75 and it did not ride like I wanted it to. A little rough on bumps and it liked to follow the road a lot and I felt every bump. A few days ago I put on some OME 884x w/driver side trim pack with the Billy's set at zero and it is night and day difference. Rides better than factory IMO. Does not follow road anymore and I can't even feel the bumps in the road anymore. I even have a sport and wasn't happy with the ride quality with the billy lift. With the OME coils I am pretty much level with 1/4-1/2 higher in front but they have not settled yet so will prolly end up leveled. Hope this helps at all! Must add I still have oem uca and was able to get alignment in specs as well. Pretty cheap imo and much better than doing a spacer lift!

 

Thanks Dirtboyz i'll keep this in mind!Eventually when i have the funds thats all i want to do is level my Tacoma with Bilstein 5100's using the oem uca's.Considering the 6112's as well.Good info to know as well on the ome 884x w/driver side trim pack.A spacer lift is not even in my thoughts what so ever after researching negative responses to that.Thanks again OP!

 

Was on the fence about this exact set up...now I think it's time to pull the trigger. Thanks Dirtboyz! Is your rear stock then? (Just 5100's back there I mean)

 

884s are almost always going to be too light for a double cab and will sag a ton over time. they are really intended for regualar cabs or 4 cyl trucks.

 

The back is all stock with the 4600 shocks. I believe that is what come on the sports factory. I eventually want to put on the 5100 on the back.

 

That may be true for the older 884s. I even called wheelers before I made the purchase and the new 884x that they sale now have little to no sag at all because they have the same load ratting as the 885s which I was going to get but would have put my front to high. (Bro lean). There are other threads and other people on here that will back up what I am saying as well but I do agree the older 884s had a bad sagging problem! In the future if it turns out I do have a sagging problem I will contact wheelers. But as I sit now with almost 1k miles after I have no sagging or did they settle they that much and yes I have taken it off road not just road driving.

 

That's s great setup. I may go w the OME 884 on OME shocks. I only want an inch or so front lift.

I also want to maintain some rear factory rake for hauling and towing. So I understand an AAL and new rear shocks will do it.

I'm going to have to stick with 265 16's max tire size. Because I dont want to get into trimming and all that.

 

Yea I'm not sure with 16's cause i have seen a lot of people say stuff with fitting tires with them. I am running 265/70/17 and I have zero rub with now trim work. Just had to take those little flaps off up front which I still don't have a clue what use they have.

 

If this question was for me, no I did not have to redo the alignment after the first. Why do you ask? I'm asking because I do feel like my truck pulls to the right a little more after the shop did the alignment so I might have to redo my alignment and they better not charge. Which I haven't had real good luck with 4WPs up here when it comes to them correcting their mistakes. they always make you pay twice. That's another reason why I wish I was more mechanically sound!

 

Here's a little insight from my 10,000 miles with the 5100/884 setup. First let me say we have different goals with the lift. I also lifted the rear. I wanted 2" front and rear to maintain factory rake.
The 884s settled maybe 1/8" and that was in the first 1000 miles. Not a bit since then. I'm at 22" hub to fender.
As for alignment, you will never get it perfect with factory UCAs. Sure, you can get it within factory spec, but remember factory spec is a range. You will be on the extremes of that range if all measurements are in the green. With my first alignment my truck pulled left even tho it was "in spec". This was due to positive camber ie tires like this \ /. It was causing the outside of my tires to begin to wear. Ideally the tuck should have 0 camber 0 toe 2.5+ caster. That just isn't possible with stock UCAs. There is a caster/ camber trade off. I chose to get my camber and toe correct at the expense of low caster to prevent tire wear. Now, the low caster makes the truck a little wandery at 65+ but it is much easier to deal with than the pulling and tire wear from high camber. UCAs are next on my list. What are your specs? If you take it back I would suggest making them give you 0 camber 0 toe and as much caster as they can give it. Hope this helps.

 

Wow. That's a great post. ^^^

 

BS. I rode 884s with 5100s for a while without having a 'ton of sag' over time. Here it is back in the day with bud built ifs and mid skids which aren't light. After that I put on a bumper and winch and still didn't experience a 'ton of sag'

884s have the same spring rate as 885s just not as tall. A great option for people wanting to level their ride.

 

Good looking stance. Tell us more. And those wheels/tires?

 

KM2s 265/75 r16 on Procomp 7089s. I did have the TSB springs at the time too. Rolled that setup for awhile before going to 315s.

 

You could also check out the 883's. It will give you little less of a lift up front unless your ultimate goal is to raise the whole truck then yes then the AAL will be needed. I've heard a lot of folks talk about the progressive AAL or leaf pack from wheelers but I haven't dealt with that portion yet.

 

Thanks for the info. I will keep this in mind when I take it in tomorrow for the retightening! Hope they don't try to recharge me for another alignment like they have in the past. Should I worry that much about it right now though because my tire wear seems to be wearing evenly with two rotations?

 

here are my readings

----------Camber--------toe--------Caster
front left- -0.1---------0.08--------1.1

front right- -0.1---------0.08---------1.4

cross camber- -0.1
cross caster- -0.2
total toe- 0.17

 

You're caster is extremely low. I know they can get it higher than that. Throw a fit if they won't do it. Lol. I also highly recommend wheelers progressive AAL if you choose to lift the rear. Rides wonderful.

 

Yea I spoke with the guys today they are going to redo the alignment and I will tell them to get the caster as high as they can. As far as that goes the other numbers look alright or should I get them to get it closer to 0? I told him I want to try and get as close to 0 as possible. I even looked today and the left front wasn't even in specs. Wasn't that far off just .1 but still they should know being an off road shop. I really do appreciate the help man. Hopefully this will rid what tiny bump steer I have left and get rid of the truck pulling to the right.

 

you know, I looked at your post wrong. I saw the -0.2 instead of the 1.4 and 1.1. You actually have as much catser as I do (still very low). your caster adjustments are most likely already maxed out. Mine are at that range. I would have them take the camber and toe to an even 0 tho. I also have some bump steer, but UCAs will fix that.