leveling 2016 with bilstein adjustable 5100

Thats what I was thinking, appreciate the info bro!

 

Just go 5160 if you can afford it. Great reservoir shocks for the money. Not over priced like icon, fox, etc.

 

Anytime man. PM me for any questions, we are all here to help people! @KingRob

 

I believe that is the route I will pursue. May go ahead and get 5100s and 887s and bring the nose up a bit then, get the 60s and AAL. What AAL did you go with if I may?

 

Deaver 1.5/ toytec single AAL, same thing.

 

There's 3 leaf/progressives that can hold
More weight and ride better. But single is affordable and I only haul 500lbs max(4wheeler)

 

Yeah I'm not gonna be pulling or hauling anything impressive so I'm just gonna go the single route for now

 

Sounds like the lift I am planning on my Sport, only I am going to run smaller tires 265/70/r17 KO2's for now. I'm wondering with the OME 887 springs and the toytec add a leaf I bought if I should set the front to 0 or .85? I don't have any extra weight on the front and only want a small amount of rake say 1/2". 0311KILL any thoughts? thanks

Edited to add: Oh and should I worry about UCA's or not now that I am running the 887's at a lower setting on the front shocks then say going to 1.75 with the stock springs?? How about a differential drop with this setup?

 

Yea I was wondering about UCAs as well. Also, if I do the 887s will it be to much on the cool to set the shock to .85?

 

Set the front at 0. You won't need a diff drop mostly likely. I didn't for my truck. I would get uca because you'll never get the truck to drive like stock/perfectly aligned.

 

I wouldn't preload it to .85, but you can. I've seen people do it before. It's fairly common.

 

Ok, back with more questions...


As of late, I've been thinking about screwing with my simple plan, and was wondering if something like this would work:

1" factory rake from back to front (correct?)

Bilstein 5100's (set to 0") w/ OME 885 springs = 1.5" front end lift (more/less), accordingly to headstrong

SumoSprings added to rear for 1/2" lift (more/less)

Equals level truck???? Is this correct? Or more or less level truck I should say... Just trying to avoid any bro lean. Do I still need to get a progressive AAL?
Goes without saying the 887 or 888 springs would definitely require a AAL, just wondering about the above scenario.

Do you get a higher lift with a 885 spring & 5100's set to 0", as opposed to factory TRD OR springs w/ 5100's set to .85"? Or it is essentially a wash, and I should save $175, and not worry about OME springs?

 

If you just want a dead level, I would scrap the coil idea and just go .85 5100 shocks up front. Don't even buy 5100 shocks for the rear, they are identical as far as valving goes compared to the stock yellow TRD OR shocks.

 

@Swiftks

 

The top pic is yeaterday after the wheeler progressive 3pack. No overload. 5100's all around with 885's set at zero. The bottom pic was with just the front done. Dead level. Sumos might give a half inch rake.

 

Perfect, this is what I needed to see. Same truck and everything!

Hard to tell from the bottom pic, but was it level without the wheeler 3 pack, or was the front end sitting higher than the rear, as I'd imagine it would probably be?

Also, what's the deal with adding a progressive leaf pack to these new 2016's? I see all kind of comments that you have to drill out a rivet and grind off a stock clamp, or something to that effect? Just curious, as if I do get a leaf pack, I want to tell the installer up front that this isn't going to be straight bolt on replacement, there's going to be a little work involved.

Looks damn good, BTW.

 

It was dead level without the 3pack. I don't like that look. I prefer about an inch of rake. When i put a canopy on, thats where I'll end up. Right now its about 1.5. I put the 5100's on the rear before the aal and it was stiff. Seems a bit softer now. Much more consistent with the front. As far as the clamp. Thats the worst part of the install. U remove the first clamp past the overload guide brackets in the rear. Your aal is longer on one side from the center pin. Long side goes to the rear. I drilled the pin out to remove the clamp. Your aal has a new clamp where the e-brake connects. I bought a 1/2 inch longer bolt to attach that and a second nut. You only need to do that if you remove the overload. Because the e-brake bracket attaches to the overload bracket. Don't know if that makes sense.

 

Do you happen to have pre-lift measurements? Did you have about a 1 inch rake prior to install? I'm looking at the same setup but with a .25 front spacer for the driver's side!

 

Looks good sir! What tire size you running again? 265?