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Leveling Kit Questions

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by 90YotaPU, Oct 1, 2010.

  1. Oct 1, 2010 at 11:02 PM
    #1
    90YotaPU

    90YotaPU [OP] The Messiah

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    Aftermarket Stereo, 10 Disc CD Changer, Cap, Spidertrax Wheel Spacers, HF Air Horns, 3" Lift
    I'm looking to put some 265/75r16's on my 2010 regular cab 4x4 and I'd like to level out the front to the back. Question is how do I determine which size to go with. I'm still debating between the Bilstein 5100's and the Daystar lift but leaning towards the 5100's cause that seems to be the consensus on this site. Is determining the size just as easy as measuring the front and rear and the size is the difference between them? I thought I saw on some sight that a 1" spacer gives 2-1/2" lift. Also if anyone with a regular cab could tell me what lift they're running in the front that would be much appreciated. Last question is, at what lift on the front do I need to do a differential drop?

    Thanks.
     
  2. Oct 1, 2010 at 11:20 PM
    #2
    dirtytaco2010

    dirtytaco2010 Well-Known Member

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    south lake tahoe, CA baby
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    custom badging, Black Badges, tint, General AT/2's, nerf bars black, ultra-gauge,toytec AAL, removed mud flaps, Bilstein 5100's @ 2.75, AFE pro dry s air fliter, spidertrax, black rock 17'' wheels
    5100's at 1.75 will level you out. you dont need a diff drop. blocks/spacers will give you a shitty ride go with the shocks. I have the 5100's at highest setting 2.75 i believe with a toytec 1.5''AAL and it rides about 3 inch lift super smooth didnt even need an alignment after I installed them. I have 2010 DC sport. youll love them. I was questioning it at first but now im sold! you will be too
     
  3. Oct 2, 2010 at 7:42 AM
    #3
    90YotaPU

    90YotaPU [OP] The Messiah

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    Aftermarket Stereo, 10 Disc CD Changer, Cap, Spidertrax Wheel Spacers, HF Air Horns, 3" Lift
    What size tires are you running? Got any pics? I was thinking of lifting exactly like you did but I don't think I want go any bigger than the 265/75r16's cause I do a lot of driving for work and don't want the mileage to suffer too much. I think lifting all around would maybe look too tall with those tires.
     
  4. Oct 2, 2010 at 8:08 AM
    #4
    BirdTRD

    BirdTRD Unsuspectingly striking from above

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    Front (2.75" total): 1.6" Eibach coils, Toytec 0.5" (L) & 0.25" (R) top plate spacers, 5100's @ 0.85", Built Right uniball UCA's, Differential drop, Removed sway bar Rear: TSB springs, Wheeler's 1.5" AAL, 5100's, 2* shims, Carrier bearing drop, F and R Spidertrax, 285/75-16 Goodyear Duratracs, Self-fabbed sliders, rear bumper, and skid plates, Cobra 75 CB, Bed lined slim lo-pro tool box, Bed Extender, Diff breather mod, Two tail gate security mods, Exhaust dumped behind axle, Can't leave shit alone so plenty more coming...
    In a light weight regular cab, 5100's at 0.85" would easily level your front with the stock rear height. You'd have plenty of room for the 265's. I imagine the 1.75" setting would put you front end high (A look you may or may not like). I agree that an all around lift might be too much on a reg cab if you're running 265's. Not to mention all of the other issues that may arise with a bigger lift. Ball joints binding and alignment issues= new uca's ($$$$), cv's bind= diff drop ($), possible drive line vibrations= CB drop ($), want bigger tires ($$$$), decreased mileage ($$$) etc, etc.

    Big spacers are the cheapest way to do a big lift but they destroy your ride comfort. Small spacers like the Toytec 1/2" top plate spacers are great and offer about 3/4"-7/8" of lift in a reg cab. This would also level you to the stock rear and it would only put you back about $60. The spacers that sit on top of the plate are better than ones that get compressed between the coil and the top plate.

    Some people say you don't need a diff drop at any height. I disagree. Added angle= accelerated wear and tear, period. I would do a diff drop on any lift over 1.5". It's cheap insurance without any real drawbacks. I wouldn't bother dropping the diff with 5100's at 0.85" or with 1/2" top plate spacers. It's just not enough to bother. In fact, you'd probably even go past stock angle with that set up. The diff drop lowers the diff 1". Certainly unnecessary if your lifting the truck less than that.

    BTW, any time you mess with your suspension or steering, get an alignment! You're changing geometry on this which changes the angle on that, etc. Don't burn through a thousand dollars worth of tires to avoid a $60 alignment. Even if it still "drives great", get an alignment.
     
  5. Oct 2, 2010 at 1:29 PM
    #5
    90YotaPU

    90YotaPU [OP] The Messiah

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    Wow, thanks for the info. You answered pretty much every question I was thinking of. Appreciate the help. Actually at this point (being I only have 3,000 miles on the truck) I'm thinking of getting the spacers for the front from Toytec and possibly when it's time to replace all the shocks then go with the Bilstein 5100's. Any thoughts on this being good or bad. I'd kinda like to save the money now as I'm trying to convince my wife that I need new tires. Figure if I buy the Bilsteins now and put them on myself I still have to pay for the shocks plus about $80 to have them changed out on the coils. Thanks for the help.
     
  6. Oct 3, 2010 at 7:51 AM
    #6
    BirdTRD

    BirdTRD Unsuspectingly striking from above

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    Front (2.75" total): 1.6" Eibach coils, Toytec 0.5" (L) & 0.25" (R) top plate spacers, 5100's @ 0.85", Built Right uniball UCA's, Differential drop, Removed sway bar Rear: TSB springs, Wheeler's 1.5" AAL, 5100's, 2* shims, Carrier bearing drop, F and R Spidertrax, 285/75-16 Goodyear Duratracs, Self-fabbed sliders, rear bumper, and skid plates, Cobra 75 CB, Bed lined slim lo-pro tool box, Bed Extender, Diff breather mod, Two tail gate security mods, Exhaust dumped behind axle, Can't leave shit alone so plenty more coming...
    That's a fine choice but be aware that you are going to have to disassemble the shocks and coils for even the top plate spacers. Granted the top plate spacer plops right in there in about 30 min per side. The problem comes in having to disassemble the coil to put in the extended length studs. Once you have the whole damn thing apart, you may as well put in the parts you want. Otherwise you have to do it all over again when you upgrade. Not necessarily a bad thing if you enjoy the work. Plus you'll get a hell of a lot faster in subsequent jobs. I've had my coils apart 3 times. The first time took all day, the second time took half a day, and the third time I had the job done in about 2 hours.

    I've never paid to have the coils compressed. I use the Autozone "loaner" coil compressor. If used properly, they are very safe and simple. If used improperly, they are the equivalent of a loaded gun in the hands of a moron. If you would like to venture down that road, let me know and I'll share all the techniques and tips I know.
     
  7. Oct 3, 2010 at 9:11 AM
    #7
    90YotaPU

    90YotaPU [OP] The Messiah

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    Yea, I was just reading the install instructions. When I read top plate spacers I figured I wouldn't have to dissassemble them. Any tips with the Autozone one would be appreciated.

    Thanks.
     
  8. Oct 3, 2010 at 3:19 PM
    #8
    KPT

    KPT sees what you did there.

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    An impact gun will turn the spring compressor work from a 20 minute job to a 2 minute job. Just be careful, those springs have a lot of force in them.
     
  9. Oct 3, 2010 at 6:51 PM
    #9
    BirdTRD

    BirdTRD Unsuspectingly striking from above

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    Front (2.75" total): 1.6" Eibach coils, Toytec 0.5" (L) & 0.25" (R) top plate spacers, 5100's @ 0.85", Built Right uniball UCA's, Differential drop, Removed sway bar Rear: TSB springs, Wheeler's 1.5" AAL, 5100's, 2* shims, Carrier bearing drop, F and R Spidertrax, 285/75-16 Goodyear Duratracs, Self-fabbed sliders, rear bumper, and skid plates, Cobra 75 CB, Bed lined slim lo-pro tool box, Bed Extender, Diff breather mod, Two tail gate security mods, Exhaust dumped behind axle, Can't leave shit alone so plenty more coming...
    They have two types of coil compressors. An inside the coil compressor and an outside the coil compressor. You want the outside one. It's about a $50 deposit that you get back when you return it.

    Take the screws out of the compressors and grease them a little. It takes a lot of torque to compress them so you don't need any binding making it even harder.

    While the screws are out, put the claws in the coils. Two on each side of the coil 180* away from each other. You don't want to pinch one side more than the other. If you did, you'd still have pressure on the side you're not compressing not to mention the unbalanced pressure is dangerous.

    Get the claws as close to the top and bottom of the coil as possible so that you are compressing the whole spring. If you are only pinching a few coils in the middle, the outer ones continue to expand and retain pressure on the plate.

    When tightening, don't tighten one side much more than the other. You want to keep the pressure on the compressors balanced. I do about three turns on one side then do the same on the other side. Back and forth, back and forth.

    If you have or can borrow an impact gun, use it! It turns a nightmare arm burner into a quick and easy job.

    I keep the coil perpendicular to myself when compressing. If it does slip, the pieces will go flying away from me and into the walls of the garage, not at me.
     
  10. Oct 1, 2013 at 3:15 PM
    #10
    Canyonman

    Canyonman Active Member

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    De badged,murdered,hell bent steel 2.5" level kit.
    Never ever use an impact on spring compressors,it's hardened steel and succeptable to shatter when you use an impact gun. Use a drill, it doesn't have the hit effect. I'm telling you this because I almost got my head taken off using said technique. The threaded rod is still stuck in the ceiling of the shop,buried 3" deep in an oak timber
     
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