Lift advice

I am almost ready to finally pull the trigger on a budget lift for my 2015 DCLB sport. The majority of my time is on road, fire roads, or occasional two track. It is mostly my hunting and fishing truck. I rarley require 4WD. I do have a camper shell on my truck. I am leaning toward OME 884 coils with Bistein shocks, and a progressive add-a-leaf in the back. I will most likely get it all from Headstrong. For tires I plan on running 255/75/17 tires on stock sport rims. I am hoping with the 884 coils I will not need new UCAs.

My questions is what else can I expect to have to do with the lift?

Are things like sway bar relocation brackets, differential drop, needle bearing swap, etc. required?

Thanks for any advice.

 

This might be a silly question, but if you rarely need 4WD what is your reason for even doing a lift? Looks?

General train of thought is 2" of lift and less you can stick with OEM UCAs. 255/75/17 tires on OEM wheels should be fine but nobody can guarantee they will clear - no two trucks are the same and fitting 32"+ tires gets trickier the bigger you go.

Bilstein 5100's are a common "budget" upgrade. Or get take-off stock suspension from a 3rd gen which would give ~1" lift up front and put a small block or AAL out back. Headstrong can give you more info too if you call them.

Advice would be to think about how much lift you really want or need and choose parts from there. Also read as much as you can on this forum - it's all been done before, the info is out there but requires lots of reading. Luckily reading is free if you have the time. Good luck.

 

^^^ He's right.

You have four options:

• Buy the first thing your installer recommends.
• Buy the first thing that a bunch of random opinionated internet trolls recommend.
  
• Throw a dart at the wall and then throw your credit card at the first online suspension you see.
• Go to https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/suspension.18/ and read. Read until you hate reading. And then read some more. Once you have poured through the reviews, how people use theirs and how their choice applies to their driving habits, descriptions of what each setup gives and what each sacrifices (and ALL suspensions have at least one negative trait), once you have finally become suspension-enlightened, then you might have a bead on whether your choice will work for you.

One of these options has a higher probability of being happy with your purchase. Three of those options have higher probability of you making a new thread titled "my new suspension feels like ass. How do I fix."

 

Forget the lift, go 255 80 tires, enjoy your refreshed ride.

 

Thank you for the replies. The reason for the lift is on forest roads and the two track on the farm that the receiver hitch some times drags going over drainage ditches. But 4WD is really not needed. But also for looks. A DCLB with a camper shell looks really long when not lift.

 

Don’t let the doubting Thomas’s get you down. You do you. More aggressive tires will help the truck moving along. A winch should come in handy on a working farm. What spring(s) you get depends on how much weight the truck will be expected to carry.

A sway bar relocate is an easy install. You can add it after the lift if anything rubs. A Diff drop is somewhat controversial. I don’t have one with a ~3 inch lift. A needle bearing - ECGS mod is something I did because the seal was leaking. If you are doing the work it’s not that expensive.

 

The departure angle can also be increased with an aftermarket bumper that has a built in hitch receiver. It gives about 4” of extra clearance in the rear.

Albeit, you can drag that hitch all day long without destroying it. It’s sturdy. Mine is all beat up, but still fully functional.