Lift Alignment Specs?

Bringing it back. I just wanted to say thanks for your advise. I also drift on occasion with my track car so it made sense with the numbers you were talking about. On Wednesday I installed my lift that I had left over from my old truck. It’s Bilstein TRD BAJA suspension. So pretty much TRD tuned 6112s and 5160s and I added ICON AALs. So she sits just about 2 inches lifted in front and 1.5 inches in rear. I have SPC LR UCAs and I have 285/75-16 Nitto trail Grapplers (33s).

For clearance with my 33s. I clear full lock left and right with about a half inch to an inch away from the cab mount. Only did slight trimming to rear of the front fender flares and pinned my inner wheel well liner farther up into the bumper. So I have a lot of space. And this is with my UCAs set at 0 which gives +2.0 caster.

For alignment. I had the guy max out my lower control arm adjustment cams to max my caster which brought the wheel forward in the wheel well adding more clearance to the cab mount. And used the UCA for camber adjustment. And as stated I kept my UCAs set at 0 (+2.0).

Alignment numbers !!!:

Caster : L 4.8 R 4.8
Camber : L -2.0 R -2.0
Toe : L -0.05 R -0.05

Dude, with these numbers the truck handles so well and it feels so smooth. I can corner fast, I track straight, and I clear 33s. On a 2 inch lift... Also I’m running a DCLB with a camper and I’m comfortable doing 30-40mph on a tight on-ramp. Running these alignment numbers is great. Couldn't have done it without the right alignment shop though. If anyone is in the South Bay of California, Visit
PS2 Custom Wheels & Tires in Inglewood. Rene is the man he took his time and was patient with my custom alignment spec request.

 

How far forward were you able to get? It looks like you still have stock bumper so I wanted to know how forward you can get without getting crazy on chopping.
Also, did you have to ditch the sway bar?

 

I guess I should say, my setup will be SPC LR UCAs and OME 2887s on 5100s. 255/80R17s (skinny 33's) I'd assume I'd be in a similar alignment to @Jeff108

 

@Slashaar I am probably about 75% to max on the cam adjustments for both the forward and rearward LCA cams. Pulling the rearward adjustment cam outwards from the frame about 75% and pushing the forward adjustment cam inwards to the frame 75% will bring wheel about 1 1/2 inches away from the front bumper with the inner fender liner pinned inside the bumper more to clear the tire and it is also about 1 1/2 inch away from cab mount. It’s hard to explain how I pinned the inner liner. I’d have to take a picture for you but, I cut the liner enough to pull it away from the fender flare and push it in the bumper, tying it bumper itself to hide it and ensure no contact with the tire. Yeah I’ll take a picture. Tomorrow.. it’s too dark right now. I didn’t have to chop away much at all.

No, I did not have to ditch my sway bar. I took it off of my old 2009 and I loved the way that it felt. It was a little more to handle but, I got used to it. You don’t make sharp turns or do on/off ramps at +50 mph in a truck anyways. I have my drift car for that. So it being a truck, I wanted more articulation than what’s limited by the sway bar off road, and it is a more comfortable ride on road. My wife loves it! She can feel a slight bit more sway but, it is again a truck and your coilovers will account for it more than it would with the stock TRD Bilsteins. OME coils are 590lbs I believe so more spring rate than stock. On my current truck the DCLB I actually have my TRD T/X Baja shocks paired with 550lbs springs. So it is more soft. Not necessarily more sway for me though, my TRD 6112s have a bit more to done to the compression dampening to help compensate for the softer spring rate. It kind of just delays the sway. Also hard to explain that.. DO NOT take my word for the removal of your sway bar though. Toyota puts them on these trucks for a reason and you taking it off can void warranty and can enhance your chance for rollover. My input is for educational and entertainment purposes only! I like it off and I know what to do to handle my truck. If you happen to do your own trial on it hope you can figure what’s right for you too!

If you end up with same results to the alignment in your truck it will give a tighter feel to your steering wheel and it will return to center rather quick. It’s great for off road and can be a little tiring when needing to turn the wheel at slow speeds. Makes me buff and I’m happy with how my truck handles! Good day now!

 

WaRrAnTy
I bought used from a Chevy dealer for a steal of a deal so no warranty. I do take corners probably faster than I should, especially now that I run skinnies. I'll probably just ditch the sway bar and ease off the throttle. Should help with the 14.9 MPG I'm getting if I'm not driving it like it's Nascar Truck Series. I'll shoot for your numbers and see how it feels. Do you have a print out of the alignment?

 

Today after a .85 front lift for truck to look a bit level.

 

Hope someone can help here. I've got a 2015 TRDOR with 1.5" Eibach lift springs up front and firestone air bags out back. My front tires have positive camber to the point that I can see it. They look like \ /. my numbers are .7 and .9. Is this right? Doesn't look right but I don't know about the numbers. Just got new Ridge Grapplers (265-75-16) and I don't want them to wear weird. The guy at the shoop didn't even attempt or know how to adjust the cams.

 

I think the first thing to do is to find a good alignment shop. I searched for a little while until I found a good one. Not sure where you are located but, as I searched for one, asking if they performed alignments to custom specs gives you a good start. What Wheels are you running? Stock or something with a more aggressive offset? With stock wheels I’m sure you can get within spec without aftermarket UCAs and no rub. Although with more aggressively offset wheels you might come in contact with your cab mount when turning full lock. You’re still running a 32” not a 33” so you shouldn’t run into much issues with rubbing. As far as your lift. You started 1.5” eibach springs? What are they mounted on? Bilstein 5100s? Are you certain you’re getting only 1.5 inch lift or are they set on a higher notch giving you possibly more lift than you think. Not sure if this helps but, it’s what I would question. If you see my post above I’m running 33 ridge grapplers and I have no rub running alignment numbers like 4+ caster -2 camber and 0 toe. I’m only on 2 inch lift as well. Hope this helps.

 

you can get 2.5ish caster with stock control arms, camber and toe should be at or close to 0. you dont want positive camber.

 

I'm running stock wheels and the springs are on 5100s on the "0" notch. Only 1.5" lift. I think once I tell the shop how to adjust the cam bolts, they will be able to figure it out. My tires are as listed, only about 31.6", no rubbing. The only thing is the pos. camber looks like \ /.

 

If they can’t look at the cams and figure out how to adjust them and which way to turn them, they shouldn’t be doing alignments and there is no way they’re going to get it right. Go somewhere else.

 

Best bet is a different shop! Good luck man!

 

I took the truck back to this shop and picked it up after they closed. They got the camber down from .7 and .9 (l and r) to .5 and .6. I told them I wanted the camber set to zero. no explanation, no notes. The caster increased from 1.7 and 1.8 (l and r) to 2.1 for both. still in the green. I'm gonna take a better look at the truck today to see if the camber looks any better. if so, I'll probably leave it alone. If not, I'm going to try to get a refund.

 

Post lift alignment. Does this look right for caster specs?

 

You got ripped off. Lazy assholes did a toe and go.

 

What Muddinfun said...I wouldn't pay for this cause they didn't really do anything.

 

I'm curious why positive camber is deemed as acceptable. Positive camber creates probably the worst cornering conditions for a tire. I feel like if you're going to stray from a 0 spec on camber, it should be negative.

I understand that as you lift the vehicle and add caster the camber goes to hell. I've figured this out by messing with the LCAs. I've recently installed SPC control arms that allow you to adjust camber independently of everything else. I haven't done the alignment yet but I can see this being an absolute Godsend. Any reason I shouldn't shoot for -0.3 degree of camber?

 

Anybody got a 3.5” RC pre-loaded strusts with a total choas UCA With a 285/70/17, what are the recommended alignment specs?

 

Hey all, just posting this in case it happens to help anyone. I recently redid my front end suspension after getting in an accident a few months ago. These are my alignment specs after installing everything + new tires today.

* 3” lift 2014 prerunner V6: 5100’s all the way around. Front struts are set to 0 setting. 885 OME Coil Springs w/toytec 1/2” top plates on both sides. 2” leveling blocks in the back. BFG KO2 285/70/r17. Stock ucas (I know, I’m working on it‍♂️). Smooth ride though for a daily driver!