Lift issues.

I had a 3" lift put on my truck by a local shop. It is the lift using a spacer on top of the coil spring. Now the steering knuckle is hitting the coil spring and it has terrible bump steer. I will attach pictures showing the steering knuckle in relation to the coil spring. Can anyone tell me how to fix this???

 

Only fix is to get a proper lift really...

New upper control arms may help, SPC, or full uniballs like allpro total chaos etc.

Presently you're "stretching" the stock system and asking components to do what they're not designed to do.

Also the way you're set up now is REALLY hard on CV joints and your ball joints.

I really suggest you revert until you have all the appropriate parts.

Sorry mate.

 

First things first. Whatever you do, don’t go back to the shop that installed this “lift” and let you drive away as if it was road worthy. Those guys are idiots.

Let me guess, they probably didn’t i stall a diff drop kit, either, which you need with a 3” lift on first gens. Likely didn't align it either.

Then lets talk about which lift you should get... the bilstein 5100s are a good budget minded choice, OME is another good choice. Often time with 3” lift, you end up with alignment issues where you need to correct your susp’s new geometry with aftermarket upper control arms. You don’t need high end total chaos or whatever to do that, there are ones in he $300 range that will do that, too.

Just lurk around this forum, do some searching and reading and you’ll find out what fits you and your budget.

 

Jamesboy2233, the picture is at ride height. jbrant, installing the spacers and rear spring hangers is all the shop did. I was disappointed to say the least. I will not be going back. Thanks for the help guys.

 

Spacers with bilsteins at max height as seen in the picture is a big no no when trying to get more lift. You should consider an ome kit with proper uca’s that wont hit the springs. Or you can go with bilsteins and eibach springs with the proper uca’s for a full 3in lift.

 

Yeah, don’t “mix lifts”. If you end up with more than 3” of overall lift, you should really consider a bracket style lift.

If you get lift springs, keep the 5100s at the “stock height” setting so you don’t over extend the suspension.

 

And if you drive it with the CV axles like that you are most likely looking at an explosion. What tire size do you have? Are you able to take the spacer out of there at all? Those things are a terrible idea IMO for first gens.

 

Got any pics if what it looks like up top
Edit: it looks like you have the 5100 shock adjusted to the highest setting and you say theres a spacer on top?

 

Here's a pic of the top showing the spacer. Are you saying that I have aftermarket shocks already(Bilstiens)? If so, they were on there when I bought the truck. It had 31x10.5's on it then, I have 33x 12.50's now. The shop that installed the spacer lift also installed the 33x12.50's. I'm wondering now if I actually needed any additional lift?

 

looks like your shocks are missing the protective boot as well. I'm not sure what kind of shock that is but it definitely has adjustments for heights.

to run 33s you will need a little lift but you are over-straining the upper ball joint and your CV right now. consider removing the spacer and see what happens. or at least back that shock down to the bottom spot. looks like it has 4 locations?

 

NO!!

You have too much lift. The combination of the taller shocks and the spacers have over-extended your control arms and causing your geometry to get all out of whack.

33's should clear with a 3" lift. You may need to trim the fender well a little bit depending on your wheel/tire combo (actually, usually just the "pinch weld mod"). There's a guy that ran on 35's at the stock height (he did a LOT of cutting, though). A 3" lift to cram 33's is a very standard thing for 1st gens.

Whatever mechanic that put that spacer in there and let you drive away like that needs to be fired.

Like I said before, if you WANT more lift, you need to ditch this spacer idea and get a bracket style lift like this:
https://www.realtruck.com/fabtech-6-lift-kits/R186755P2004Y608MA.html

But again, you don't NEED that much height to fit 33's...

 

Eeek! I would get that spacer out ASAP!

 

holy crap...if that's ride height, then your CV angles are fucked....look at how severe they are in that photo, the boots are going to rub apart and the axles themselves are going to snap in no time. Get rid of that lift asap dude

 

As mentioned do not go back to that shop that did the work, it is wrong. The max lift you can do on a 4x4 without an expensive drop bracket lift is only 3" of lift. Which do clear 33" tires as mentioned, Some cutting may be needed. Heck, cutting something is always needed. If you continue to drive like that your 4x4 will break apart and the ball joints will break aswell.

 

I hear what you guys are saying. I appreciate the input. I think I will remove the spacers and see how everything looks and rides. I haven't been driving the truck since I got it back from the shop. I couldn't get over 35 mph. It was all over the road, not safe to drive.

 

Do you know if the shop did an alignment on it? I can't imagine they could have gotten it aligned within spec with your UCA's that far down.

Either way, you'll need to do (another) alignment once you remove the spacers. Usually, an alignment is your first clue something is wrong (aside form the UCA hitting the coil, lol), which is why I suspect that shop either didn't bother with an alignment, or lied to you about it.

There are regional forums here, I recommend asking around for a reputable shop to get the alignment done. Preferably one that specializes is 4x4s.

Good luck!!

 

Thanks. If I can get it to where the suspension geometry is close to normal, my first stop is the alignment shop.

 

With thoes 4 position 5100's on the top clip you already have a 3 inch lift. Take the top spacer out quickly or your cv's and ball joints are going to explode. Thoes are some crazy angles. You will still need to do the pinch weld mod to avoid rubbing on full compression of the suspension.

 

Ok, any suggestions on how to break the nuts loose on the lower control arm? You do have to loosen them to get the struts off, right?

 

Impact gun