Lifted '16 Tacomas

About to install 3rd gen 5100's (setting 0) with OME 887's on my Access Cab OR 4x4 this weekend. I'm expecting around a 2.5" lift up front based on the headstrong chart. Rear will remain stock for the time being with the stock bilstein OR shocks. As of right now I'm a little concerned with not adding a differential drop kit. I don't want to do the install this weekend to roll around on binding cv joints all week until I have some more time to install (order) the differential drop kit. Any experience or insight here would be awesome. It's going to be a very mild weekend here in CT so I'd love to get the new struts in. However, if you guys highly suggest the drop kit, I don't have an issue holding off until next weekend.

Is there a general consensus on lift height for the differential drop kit and sway bar relocation kit? I've seen people over 2.5" without anything and I've seen people under 2.5" with everything so this makes things confusing.

Appreciate any help in advance!

 

Most agree not to drop the diff unless at 3" or above on the 3rd Gen Tacomas. 2.5" you are on the bubble for UCA while 3" get UCA.

 

Kings & total chaos uca's, wheelers progressive AAL (overload removed) & fox 2.0 shocks.

 

Very Nice! What tire size and lift?

 

before and after
2nd gen 5100s at 3rd notch on stock springs
rear Deaver aal
17x9 wheels
265/70r17 Falken Wildpeak AT3 tires

 

Ok, so I succesfully installed the lift this weekend and couldn't be happier with the results. Keep in mind this is right after the install and it has settled a little bit since I took these pics. I hope it settles just a little bit more tbh.





Now I haven't gotten an alignment yet, but I've started to notice a very slight cyclic hum/vibration at certain speeds. I really hope it's not the needle bearing in the differential but I've got a strong feeling it is since I know what a bad alignment feels like. I've also been reading that the differential drop kit is pointless and does nothing to resolve the issue with the needle bearing - I was banking on this fix if I got the vibration. Can I expect this needle bearing to get worse over time? What has everyone been doing to resolve this issue here? Dishing out the cash for a shop to install the ecgs bushing? Is this job really that big of a deal? I promised myself I wouldn't get too crazy with modifying this truck lol. Heeeeere we go again

 

I think you answered your own question. What's your plan for a rear lift at this point? Can't tell from the pic exactly but seems you got a little bro lean going on?

 

Slightly bro, but it seems a little bit better this morning. I'll get the tape measure out later. I really haven't thought about the rear too much other than adding the 5100's out back to match the fronts.

How much are people dishing out for this job? People seem to cringe at the thought of it haha. Can any reputable shop tackle the job?

 

Are you mechanically inclined at all? If so you can take your time and do it yourself. You will need that special needle bearing removal tool tho. Search for guys here borrowing the tool from each other. If you want a shop to do it buy the bushing and ask around. Most shops charge between $3-400 bucks. Doubt the dealer will put a non-Toyota part in there for you. And don't waste your time putting the same needle bearing back in. Also, put your truck in 4x4 and see if the vib goes away. If it does then its the drivers side needle bearing.

 

Thanks for the tips!

I'm mechanically inclined but have little to no experience with driveline components in trucks. I'm coming from years of experience working on/lowering fwd vehicles. I've done a handful of half shaft/axle replacements but I've never needed to work on a differential. To be honest, I am very hesitant doing anything to this truck as it is a lease. I told myself from the get-go that the lift and wheels will be coming off before I trade the truck in.

This video makes the job seem relatively easy.


Something tells me this job won't be as easy as the video makes it seem lol.

 

With your experience, you can do this job yourself in a day or half day for sure. Hardest part is getting the needle bearing out and possibly getting the axle reinstalled past the clip. Also, rent the tool for proper bushing install. But if you want a shop to do it for the labor I don't blame you one bit. Others have had a shop do this for the same reasons.

 

I like the stock wheels. Looks good.

 

2016 DCLB SSM
Icon Stage 4 Lift kit (3in/2in)
-Front: Coilovers with Reservoirs
-Rear: Shocks with Reservoirs
Tires: Toyo M/T 275/75R17
Rims: Method Grid R17

 

Details regarding the specifics and tires would be helpful...

 

6" BDS suspension lift, 33" Toyo mud terrain tires, 18x9 -12 moto metal shift wheels.

 

seems like people are going with 2nd gen because of travel (closed and extended) , not so much height difference. The 3rd gen need to space out bump stop with included spacer, 2nd gen you do not. there is a thread on tw with measurements and some of the reasons why some are deciding on 2nd gen vs 3rd gen.

 

I had ordered my 2nd gen 5100s before the 3rd gen 5100s had come out. I just didn't have time to install them till recently.

 

Can someone suggest around a 2inch lift? I want the rear to be able to take a load and tow without excessive squat. If its a little raked without load, that's fine. I'm ocd about the rear sagging

 

Well this is how my girl sits on 887 with 3gen bilsteins and aal with thanks to @HeadStrong Off-Road withe all the helpfull insight. With Wildpeak at3w 265/70/17 and spidertrax spacers all around.