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Light bar question for new '16 taco...

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Barrycuda, Dec 30, 2017.

  1. Dec 30, 2017 at 3:37 AM
    #1
    Barrycuda

    Barrycuda [OP] Member

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    Mainly all stock. Blackened lettering. Slowly will add things with help from this forum
    apologies in advance if this had been asked specifically. I see many of you fine folks with a light bar intergrated in the lower part of the front grill/bumper, between the fog lights. They look great. Asking for info and advice on your brand and model LED light, where did you purchase. For me, the simpler, easier installation would be appreciated also. Any links and videos would hePlease. Thanks and happy driving in 2018!
     
  2. Dec 30, 2017 at 3:45 AM
    #2
    vprgts

    vprgts Well-Known Member

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    Centreville, VA
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    265/70/17 BF Goodrich K02, OEM 17" 4Runner Trail Wheels, Bilstein 5100's, OME 887 coils, single Deaver rear AAL, Plasti dipped black front bumper cover and badges. TRD pro grill, trd auto shift knob, truxport roll up bed cover, painted red front calipers, tinted front windows, vital 2-way auto remote start. Hood scoop LED light bar. Bumper Auxbeem 32” LED light bar with Caliraised brackets. Infinity reference speaker upgrade with dynomat. 1.25 spidertrax wheel spacers. Supernova V.4 LED low beam H11 bulbs.
    Barrycuda[OP] likes this.
  3. Dec 30, 2017 at 3:46 AM
    #3
    Muffdiver

    Muffdiver Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional

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    Ty
    Elkhart, In
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    Barrycuda[OP] and vprgts like this.
  4. Dec 30, 2017 at 5:45 AM
    #4
    AmericanDrug

    AmericanDrug Well-Known Member

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    Rod
    Valdosta, GA
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    I would recommend the caliraised kit, around $250. I did not go that route because I figured the wife would flip spending that much and ordered off Amazon. I still spent $130 on the bar, caliraised mounts, harness and switch. She eventually said why didn't you get the one you wanted....
     
  5. Dec 30, 2017 at 6:32 AM
    #5
    Parkrat

    Parkrat Active Member

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  6. Dec 30, 2017 at 6:39 AM
    #6
    orangeracer

    orangeracer Well-Known Member

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    I'm on the fence on which to get too for my 18. I live right by Caliraised and might go there. My buddies are telling me to go cheap Amazon route and do install ourselves, since we did it on their Jeeps. Wouldn't mind saving the $120 install fee for the light bar and $80 for rock light install but also wouldn't mind having it done for me. Decisions decisions...
     
    Barrycuda[OP] likes this.
  7. Dec 30, 2017 at 6:54 AM
    #7
    Shellshock

    Shellshock King Shit of Turd Island

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    I bought the rigid kit. Includes everything except a switch that fits one of the blanks - it just has a round toggle switch. Best price on the kit was off Amazon.
     
    Barrycuda[OP] likes this.
  8. Dec 30, 2017 at 7:24 AM
    #8
    1cleanFG

    1cleanFG DialsGarage

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    Toytec Alumaseries Coilovers OME El111R Camburg UCAs Scs sr8 17” 285/70/17 KO2
    I’m running cali raised mounts and a rough country dual row light bar. Comes with harness as well and I just switched to the oem style switch to make it clean. Super easy to install. I love mine and it requires no cutting of the grill.
     
    Barrycuda[OP] likes this.
  9. Dec 30, 2017 at 8:51 AM
    #9
    Malibu7tss

    Malibu7tss Can' t think of anything to type here right now.

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    Old man emu with 888's and headstrong off road progressive aal, trd pro wheel, Cooper Stt Pros 285/70r17

    So here’s the difference. The top one is the $250 dollar caliraised 32 inch bar on my Tacoma. The second is the $150 dollar mictunning 32” bar from Amazon. On the Caliraised bar everything was extremely good quality. From the bar to the brackets. The mictunning bar was okay. And I had to make my own brackets. Took 3 times as long to install. I could not be happier with the Caliraised stuff. It is at least twice as bright if not three times. Spend the extra money and get the good stuff.


    Disclaimer: These pictures were taken over a year apart on 2 different vehicles using 2 different cell phone cameras. Top picture is Caliraised 5d 32” light bar on a 2” lifted 2016 Tacoma using Caliraised stealth mount brackets. Bottom picture is Mictunning 32” dual row led bar mounted in front lower bumper of a 3” lifted 2003 4Runner. Both vehicles are not parked in exactly the same spot in driveway and both bars are not adjusted to the same orientation. Light output between bars is dramatically different.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2017
    Barrycuda[OP] and vprgts like this.
  10. Dec 30, 2017 at 8:57 AM
    #10
    1cleanFG

    1cleanFG DialsGarage

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    Would help the comparison if the lights were actually adjusted the same...
     
  11. Dec 30, 2017 at 11:39 AM
    #11
    dkhorse74

    dkhorse74 Well-Known Member

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    Where you want to be
    I bought in on the Rigid group buy.. $$$ light bar and I feel I might have spent more than I should have, but the quality is superb.. The kit came with wiring hardness (Relay, fuse, rocker switch). I took a bit of different route on the rocker switch and used my OEM fog light switch on the turn signal stalk. I purchased H11 socket adapters from Amazon that plugs directly into the OEM fog light plug. Think of this as a "remote" turn-on circuit much like a stereo HU sends signal to a sub-woofer amplifier:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XP4PLKW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    And I had a pair of weather proof plugs that I used between the light bar and the relay. For main power/ground I have a spare aux fuse panel with dedicated 100amp circuit. Everything I did is plug and play and reversible as no wire cutting was involved.
     
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  12. Dec 30, 2017 at 3:21 PM
    #12
    Barrycuda

    Barrycuda [OP] Member

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    2016 Taco SR5 Dbl cab
    Mainly all stock. Blackened lettering. Slowly will add things with help from this forum
    Wow, you folks sure come through! Appreciate not only any makes and models, but many described the pros and cons and installation habits. Thanks, I'll check these out.
     
  13. Jan 6, 2018 at 1:18 PM
    #13
    304_Taco

    304_Taco Well-Known Member

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    Did you end up switching to an oem style switch? If so how difficult was the install into the blank located below the a/c controls?
     
  14. Jan 6, 2018 at 1:26 PM
    #14
    Shellshock

    Shellshock King Shit of Turd Island

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    Yep I’ve got an oem style switch below the AC controls. It was pretty easy, I popped off the trim around the radio and took out the head unit (4 Screws). I then just reached down through that opening and could fish the wires and get the blank out to put in my switch.
     
  15. Jan 6, 2018 at 1:54 PM
    #15
    304_Taco

    304_Taco Well-Known Member

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    Do you have a thread or a writeup of how you wired everything? I've seen some but nothing specific for that switch location.
     
  16. Jan 6, 2018 at 2:36 PM
    #16
    Shellshock

    Shellshock King Shit of Turd Island

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    I haven’t done a write up but it was pretty simple. I used the rigid wiring harness and started in the cab running the fused power cable and light cable though the firewall. I tucked the relay behind the wiring that is by the adapter for the trailer brake controller. There was some open space up there and seemed like just the perfect amount of space for the relay to sit. I ran the wire for the switch up and around everything and came through the opening you can see looking down from where the unit is - I just straightened a coat hanger and stuck it down there then taped the wire to it and pulled it up through the opening. I kinda followed the wiring for the gas pedal and used a couple zip ties to keep everything out of the way.

    Under the hood I got some of the flexible plastic cable tubing to add a little extra protection and keep everything nice. I had a bigger diameter piece I used from the firewall to the side up to where the battery is. Positive off the battery, ground to the side with the other ground that’s already there. I then used a smaller piece of tubing to run from the battery to the plugin for the light.

    The wiring harness is plenty long if you have the relay in the cab where I put. If you have the relay under the hood (which is what I was originally going to do) you’ll have way too much wire under the hood and not near enough inside the cab to get to the switch location.

    That should pretty much cover it but if you’ve got other questions let me know. I’ll probably do a write up this spring when it warms up. I really need to start a build thread.
     
  17. Jan 6, 2018 at 5:24 PM
    #17
    304_Taco

    304_Taco Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the information. I'll have to take a look in the truck to get the full idea but it's too cold for that right now. If you end up doing a write up it would help the MT owners on here as I've searched a lot without finding anything specific to that switch location.
     

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