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Light Racing UCA install ?

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Fabulous, Feb 2, 2011.

  1. Feb 7, 2011 at 8:50 PM
    #41
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    Looked at mine again , the small numbers on mine , which match Scotts , are labelled " Ball joint setting "

    The bigger numbers on mine are labelled " Total arm + Ball joint caster change "

    So I think you are correct in your explanation Colin .
     
  2. Feb 8, 2011 at 7:57 AM
    #42
    Fabulous

    Fabulous [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2006 Tacoma double-cab TRD Sport
    Homertaco grill, Light Racing UCA's, 2.8" front lift (5100's at 0.85 setting and Eibach springs) 2" AAL with rear 5100's, Wet Okole seat covers fr/ bk. 17 x 9 Incubus Crusher wheels w/ 4.5" backspacing. 30% tinted front windows.
    Man, this is confusing. So, I set these puppies at the 0 setting, correct?
     
  3. Feb 8, 2011 at 7:58 AM
    #43
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    Does your spec sheet look like mine or Scott's ?
     
  4. Feb 8, 2011 at 8:30 AM
    #44
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    F.U> GUYZ
    broken mods
    yes
     
  5. Feb 9, 2011 at 8:25 AM
    #45
    Deathbeard

    Deathbeard Well-Known Member

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    Camburg Spindles, Camburg 1.25" UCA, All pro expedition rear 3" leaf, 5100 all around, 17x9 raceleline renegade 6, 33's
    do these provide more caster than the camburg 1.25" uniballs?
     
  6. Feb 13, 2011 at 11:26 PM
    #46
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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  7. Feb 13, 2011 at 11:48 PM
    #47
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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  8. Feb 14, 2011 at 7:23 AM
    #48
    Fabulous

    Fabulous [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Homertaco grill, Light Racing UCA's, 2.8" front lift (5100's at 0.85 setting and Eibach springs) 2" AAL with rear 5100's, Wet Okole seat covers fr/ bk. 17 x 9 Incubus Crusher wheels w/ 4.5" backspacing. 30% tinted front windows.
    Yeah, I seen that video on another thread...thanks. I have the UCA's sitting in my garage now, and I'm just waiting for a warm day to throw them on.

    Cheers.
     
  9. Feb 14, 2011 at 9:45 PM
    #49
    Valley Viking

    Valley Viking Well-Known Member

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    OME 885 Coils, OME Dakar Rear Leafs, OME NitroCharger Shocks, LR UCA's, AFE ProDry Air Filter, Scanguage, Wet Okole Seat Covers
    Just finished putting in the OME complete kit, now I am waiting for new bolts for the UCA's from Toyota to get here so I can install the LR units. I looked my front end over and decided that I wasn't going to start the install without a set of new bolts on hand. I really don't think my existing bolts will have the clearance to back out, the inner fender is in the way. Looks like I am most likely going to loosen the bolt, tap it back a bit, cut the head of the bolt off with a metal blade on a sawsall and punch the remainder of the bolt out towards the rear. New bolts were only like $5 each but it takes a few days to get them. I think I can slide the new bolts in from the rear, opposite of what they are now.
     
  10. Feb 15, 2011 at 7:19 AM
    #50
    Fabulous

    Fabulous [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Homertaco grill, Light Racing UCA's, 2.8" front lift (5100's at 0.85 setting and Eibach springs) 2" AAL with rear 5100's, Wet Okole seat covers fr/ bk. 17 x 9 Incubus Crusher wheels w/ 4.5" backspacing. 30% tinted front windows.
    I also took a look at mine, and there is no way just bending the sheet metal back is going to work. I'd have to bend it back like 1.5" to even thing about getting it out that way...def going to have to cut it out :( I hope my dremel can do the trick? If not then I guess I'll have to think of something else...
     
  11. Feb 20, 2011 at 7:23 PM
    #51
    Valley Viking

    Valley Viking Well-Known Member

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    OME 885 Coils, OME Dakar Rear Leafs, OME NitroCharger Shocks, LR UCA's, AFE ProDry Air Filter, Scanguage, Wet Okole Seat Covers
    Installed my LR UCA's yesterday. Piece of cake, this was way easier than I feared it might be. I cut the head of the old bolt off and slid the remainder of the bolt out towards the rear. The bolts are mild steel and cut like butter. There are a few brake lines that you need to strong arm over with your hand to get the last of the old bolt out and to get the new bolt started on the drivers side of the truck, but other than that the old bolts slid right out and the new ones slid right in with no effort. Took about 20 minutes per side.

    New bolts from Toyota ended up costing me $12 each. It took the dealer a couple of trys to get the right ones. Installing new bolts is the only way to go. Trying to slid the old bolt out toward the front in one piece with the inner fender in the way would have been a huge pain in the ass if not impossible.

    Hopefully I will get the alignment done tommorrow. I'm shooting for 0 toe, 0 camber, and 2.4 caster. We'll see how it goes.

    Bought my LR units at Fat Bob's, cheapest I could find anywhere by a long shot. Give them a call for the sale price.

    The LR UCA's are a lot beefer than the stock ones. You don't realize how puny the stock arms are until you have one of them in your hand and the LR unit in the other. As far as the arguement if the LR arms are as tough as the TC or Camburgs goes, I don't see how the others could be any stronger than the LR arms. I could drive off a cliff and I ain't gonna hurt these things.
     
  12. Feb 21, 2011 at 1:18 PM
    #52
    Valley Viking

    Valley Viking Well-Known Member

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    OME 885 Coils, OME Dakar Rear Leafs, OME NitroCharger Shocks, LR UCA's, AFE ProDry Air Filter, Scanguage, Wet Okole Seat Covers
    Got my alignment done, we see how she drives over the next few days. My son went and picked the truck up and says it steers real nice! Now it's time for new wheels and tires. Right now I have some pretty well worn 265/75/16 Toyo's. Think I will stick with that size or maybe go to 265/70/16 but I'm not sure what brand yet.
     
  13. Feb 22, 2011 at 4:19 AM
    #53
    T@co_Pr3runn3r

    T@co_Pr3runn3r XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

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    Might wanna have it aligned again after new tires on it........
     
  14. Feb 23, 2011 at 11:00 AM
    #54
    Fabulous

    Fabulous [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You think a Dremel would cut through those bolts with a good cutter on it?
     
  15. Feb 23, 2011 at 11:08 AM
    #55
    macgyver

    macgyver Well-Known Member

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    Probably but you will go through a lot of cut-off wheels.
     
  16. Feb 23, 2011 at 11:30 AM
    #56
    ds46000

    ds46000 Well-Known Member

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    never done it before, but don't see why you couldn't just use a hack saw.
     
  17. Feb 23, 2011 at 4:59 PM
    #57
    crf69

    crf69 scraping my emblems off my plasti-dip

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    ummm yeah
    will i need new bolts? damnit i have all my shit and just noticed i might need new bolts....shit
     
  18. Feb 23, 2011 at 5:24 PM
    #58
    TacoBow

    TacoBow Intentionally cosmetically incorrect.

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    X2, it's possible, but not what I wanted to do when considering all the more the bolts cost.

    Could, but the disc diameter on the Dremel is rather small... gonna eat up discs before they are spent and will have to roll the bolt to keep cutting. They (Dremel dics) are brittle and will fragment if you lean the tool under power even the slightest amount.

    Ditto.

    You don't need new bolts, as long as you don't mind bending your inner fender panel out of the way. Most will just bend it and drift the bolt out, but as Viking said, you'll have a bit more hardware in the way. The bolts are cheap by comparison and make for a cleaner install IMO.

    I used the cheap B&D grinder, commonly found at Wally World for under 30 bux, with a $2 dulla cut off wheel... not the grinding disc it comes with... seen in this pic -

    [​IMG]

    Slid the UCA bolt toward the inner fender well and sliced it off as seen here -

    [​IMG]

    Which yields this in no time flat -

    [​IMG]

    Be sure to wear gloves and keep your eyes / face out of the way from the cutting disc. Take care not to lean the grinder while you cut... you don't want to bind the disc under power as it can shatter and be quite harmful to the operator. Safety glasses are worth the investment when using any power tool. You'll end up with a nice install, just as Viking outlined above.
     
  19. Feb 23, 2011 at 5:41 PM
    #59
    crf69

    crf69 scraping my emblems off my plasti-dip

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    ummm yeah
    where can i get new bolts online cheap? thanks in advance
     
  20. Feb 23, 2011 at 5:45 PM
    #60
    TacoBow

    TacoBow Intentionally cosmetically incorrect.

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