Light racing uca's any good?

Old style LR UCAs

 

All the research that I have done on this topic points to issues with LRs being restricted to the old style of them. Supposedly, the new style doesn't have such issues.

 

I'd got a squeaky bushing on the driver's side but its because the UCA bolt is bent. I've also bent my coil buckets, cam tabs, my gusseted spindles and broke or bent a lot of other shit and so far my Light Racing UCA's have held up just fine

The only issue I have really had with them is the BJ bolt would slip on me. Well torquing it to 200 ftlbs fixed that problem. I also run them as wide as they will go so (not only do I gain some stance) that when they do slip I can put them right back with about 10 minutes of work or so.

I've compared them side by side to n0rth's uniball TC's and the LR BJ's actually had more articulation than those uniballs, but it is a moot point because the CV axles and tie rods can't handle that much travel.

Realistically I'm sure the uniball UCA's are a lot stronger than the Light Racing ones, (and for twice the price they better be!) but if you are just a mall crawler or even the average rock crawler, why waste that extra money when these LR's will do everything you need them too

 

@BradyT88 thanks that's what I wanted to know.

 

@BradyT88 curious to know what type of suspension you are running on ur truck

 

Yup, most uniballs with misalignment spacers top out around 70* of total articulation.... LR ball joints do 82

 

LR uppers, stock lowers and ORI's up front and DMZ SUA kit in the rear.

 

Like someone mentioned above the sealed joint in the LR or the camburgs with ball joints will be far better for high salt areas. In the Northeast/ rustbelt those 2 options are the way to go for longevity if your truck is daily driven.

 

I have them, have not put them through any hard offroading, get great alignment numbers. I like them, my use is 95% on road.

 

I have had my LR UCA's for about a year and a half (95% on the street/highway). I just recently noticed that both upper ball joints are squeaking terribly(not just going over bumps but even when you turn the steering wheel). Thats a sign that they need to be replaced correct? Anyone know how long are these ball joints are warrantied for?

 

I just installed LR ucas. Here's my report:
1. Find a shop with experience installing LR's. (first shop couldn't solve the riddle; second shop knew LR's like an old friend);
2. On pavement/around town: Excellent;
3. On pavement/highway (405 & 110 freeways): Excellent;
4. I had a bad driveline vibration prior to my lift---but no vibe post-lift (crazy, right?);
5. With the $$ I saved buying the LR's ucas (vs. TC or Icon), I bought OME 887 springs (had them powdercoated red), and 3/4" plates from Toytec.

So far, so good---looking forward to testing it out on some sissy trails....

 

I bet SPC would know

 

Yeah, I already emailed them but probably wont hear back until Monday.

 

Whats their email address , it didn't show up for me when I checked their contact info last night

 

I found " custserv@specprod.com " on another thread here on TW. I couldn't find one on their site either.

 

Thanks

 

If balljoints offer more articulation and are sealed from the elements, what exactly is the benefit of using uni balls? Are they stronger?

I'm planning to upgrade suspension next spring/summer and since my truck is a daily driver that sees mostly pavement, I'm thinking balljoints are the better choice. Thoughts?

 

Uniballs are definitely stronger but its not like ball joints are weak.

That stated, i went ball joints as i dont need the extra strength in my truck for the off roading i do (some desert, jeep trails, etc) and the "maintence freeness" of the ball joints vs the uniballs i liked much better.

But really i went with the lightracing arms for the extra adjustability.

 

I'm guessing the adjustability people refer to is coming from the fact that the balljoint mounts in a slot? Is there any worry of them coming out of adjustment?

 

with them torqued down to 150 ftlbs it shouldnt be an issue unless you hit somethign REAL hard, then you probably have other problems.

That stated i marked mine with a paint pen, so if they do move or need to come off, its easy to put it back into place (same with LCA bolts)