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Lighting wiring question

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Av8er, Aug 31, 2012.

  1. Aug 31, 2012 at 7:44 AM
    #1
    Av8er

    Av8er [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Taylor
    Formaly Houston, now Tampa, FL.
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    09 Prerunner SR5/TRD DC, LB, w/ Tow
    Newb to wiring and about to start my own bed lights wiring project with basic led light strip and powered switch in cab.

    My question is this:

    My setup is running a 16 gauge wire from battery, then in-line fuse, then to the switch. From switch (will be grounded as well) to the Led lights which will also be grounded.

    Which connectors for the battery terminal, and grounding points (chassis bolts) are the easiest to use? Ring terminals? I don't have a soldering iron or the experience using them. I do have crimping and stripping tools already. I know I know, get a soldering iron. But lets assume they are sold out.......in Houston.......the whole damn city is sold out. ;)

    Also anyone have any recommendations on a good priced place to pick up the wiring and connectors I'll need? I have an Autozone next door but their prices aren't always the best. Are there quality differences in electrical wire or is one 16 gauge wire @ $12 close the one at $6 quality wise. I'm guessing the differential is in the insulation?

    Tks guys for working with my basic questions. The best part of these projects is learning and tapping into the wealth of knowledge here on TW.

    T-
     
  2. Aug 31, 2012 at 8:01 AM
    #2
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    First, where are the LED's going to be mounted? Ground the LED's somewhere close by, same with the switch.

    Second, I would not pull power direct from the battery just as a general rule. If it were a higher wattage pull (LED's generally have low draw), I'd tell you to get a relay and wire it that way. You also generally don't want to run the power for an accessory through the switch (another reason for using relays). Since LED's have a low draw, those last 2 aren't really concerns you need to bother with, just general knowledge because you said you were new at wiring. I'd find a circuit that's only hot when the ignition is on, use an add-a-circuit, then wire that to your switch, then to the LED's. This will force the lights to shut off when you turn the ignition off regardless of the switch position. A test light would be a good investment if you plan to do future wiring (so would a soldering iron but we won't go there... :rolleyes:). It will help you test your grounds and determine which circuits and wires are 'hot'.

    Lastly, if you must use crimp connectors, get the ones that have heat shrink built in. You crimp them in place, hit them with a heat gun or a lighter, and the heat shrink seals the connection up. For the minor amount of wiring you'd need for this project, Autozone should be fine. Also, different grades of wire can be insulation, interior/exterior use, shielded or what the conductor is made out of. If you run a lightly insulated wire outside of the cab, make sure you protect it with wire loom or electrical tape and zip ties, especially where they would be in contact with a sharp edge or something that could shave away the insulation and cause a short.
     
  3. Sep 1, 2012 at 7:51 AM
    #3
    Av8er

    Av8er [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info. Yea I'm doing 16.4' of waterproof led strip around my long bed. Will mount as others have under the bed rail out of site and will ground the led lights to the rear of the truck somewhere and then have the switch cab mounted as discussed earlier. I want to be able to use them (low draw anyway) when the ignition is off. ie. camping, tailgating, etc. so that's why I chose the battery connection in lieu of running it as an accessory which will shut off with the ignition.
    I have a multimeter to use to verify connections and determine ground points, power, etc. (One of the good investments I've made along with a house). I'll use the heat shrink connectors as per your suggestion as well. And as soon as I slow down a little, I'll grab a solder iron and practice a bit for future projects. ;)

    Tks for chiming in bud-
     
  4. Sep 1, 2012 at 8:22 AM
    #4
    acdronin

    acdronin Well-Known Member

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    Go get an accessory relay, like a 30 amp (even though you never need the full 30), then the leads for the lights come off the relay, I ground my relays on the same terminal that the battery grounds to with a crimp ring terminal, I ground my switches close to the switch as well. If you don't have a handy ground point in the bed (which I suspect you don't), then you may consider just running two wires out from the relay and using the same battery ground for that as well. I used low volt landscape lighting wire through the bed and under the truck to the relay, it's heavily insulated and meant to be in the elements, just make sure you keep the polarity correct.
     
  5. Sep 2, 2012 at 1:27 PM
    #5
    Av8er

    Av8er [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Taylor
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    09 Prerunner SR5/TRD DC, LB, w/ Tow
    Tks for the input. ;) Ordering supplies for my project now.
     

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