Limp Mode: Code P2103. Please Help me

That is really close.
Note that the test was at 68 degrees.
I don’t think that little difference will cause anything like what you are experiencing.

I’d move in to the harness. (Make sure you are on the right scale. It’s in K-Ohms)

Of course I’d like to see what @Dm93 suggests also. That guy is really good at this stuff.

 

Have you put new gas in it & checked to make sure the gas cap is good? Also, might as well put a pcv valve in

 

I think you should prove out the wiring first before condemning the throttle body unless you happen to have a spare one laying around, it's interesting that they give such a wide range of resistance.

When you apply Ohm's law Volts/Resistance = Current:

13 V/ 0.22 O = 59 A
13 V/ 0.33 O = 39 A
13 V/ 100 O = 0.13 A

Now granted current is dynamic for electric motors based on speed and load.

Not saying these are bad ideas considering the truck has been sitting but they aren't really relevant to a throttle body problem.

 

Okay. That's what I figured but wanted to make sure I told you.

Got it. I just tested out the Throttle connector, using the attached document as a reference. Here's what I got:

T25–2 (M+) to E12–5 (M+): Positive jumps up to 5 ohm before falling below 1 (specified to stay below 1)
T25–1 (M–) to E12–4 (M–): Negative staying below 1 ohm (specified to stay below 1)

T25–2 (M+) to Body ground: 313.4 K Ohms (specified to stay 10k)
T25–1 (M–) to Body ground: 312.4 K Ohms (specified to stay 10k)

It seems like these numbers are good. What do you guys think?

 

I should explain this more. The moment one end of the multimeter is connected to the M+ Throttle body side of the wire harness and the other end is connected to the M+ ECM side of the wire harness, the number that first appears on the multimeter displays just about 5 Ohms for maybe .2 seconds before quickly falling to around .3 Ohms or less. I brushed this off when I first saw it, but I just looked at how P2103 is actually triggered, as described by the following:
P2103: Either of following conditions is met (1 trip detection logic):
Throttle actuator current is 10 A or more for 0.1 seconds
Throttle actuator current is 7 A or more for 0.6 seconds
Could there be a connection between the momentarily higher resistance and the fault code?

 

It's common for an ohm meter to take a second or 2 to stabilize, don't forget the higher the resistance the lower the current.
I'm assuming you haven't found any chewed wiring with a visual inspection?

 

@Dm93 , No. I inspected the wires between the ECM and the Throttle Assy carefully and there doesn't seem to be any visual signs the wires are chewed. Most of the wiring between the points is contained by a plastic tube/cover, so I couldn't physically see all of it. But the plastic tubing is secure and clean so I don't think any of the wires it contains are damaged.

 

One quick comment, and a suggestion.

First, the thing was running with code P2103. THEN you did some work on the air intake system and throttle body. After this, you got code P2111 AND the Idle started jumping.

So the very first thing always when "you do something" and get an immediate problem is assume the "something" caused the problem. Whenever someone tells me "it just started doing X" my first question is always "what did you do?". There's always something. IN this case you did so something significant to the air intake system, which most probably caused the new issues.

From my own experience, I had Item #3 - idle jumping, and it turned out to be the TPS (throttle position sensor) that was bad. That is a pretty cheap part.

It won't help with 2103, but should possibly help with the new issues.

 

Here is my hypothesis, I’ll do my best to keep it short and simple.
Again, this is a guess.

P2103 is a code for “too much” current detected.
P2111 is “Throttle Valve stuck open, despite high current drive to close”

Maybe the throttle blade is getting stuck open (P2111), the ECM is sending a HIGH current drive to close it. (P2103)

Or, maybe the wiring can’t support the current to drive the throttle?

 

Hey TNshooter did you ever figure out that problem with the code p2103 just tryna see what my options are cuz I’m going thru the same exact thing pretty my only difference is I need o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 which I’ve ordered I’ve changed fuel filter and the tps sensor still stuck on those same codes

 

The OP never came back and updated.
I have no idea what, or if, the problem was fixed.