Line Out Converter Help needed- which harness wires to tap?

That is the rear speaker plug. The power and front speakers is the one next to that on the radio and is where you'll tap for "ignition on" power to the amp which would be #C on the diagram larger plug. DO NOT connect the amp power to this, just the trigger wire to turn the amp on.

The two blue wires (H & I) on the plug aren't used and you'll see that there's nothing there on the harness end.

 

Thanks, that really clears it up. I'm going to cut into the factory harness/wires, so no adapter needed.

EDIT: I decided to go with the adapters, so thanks again!

 

I used the BEST KITS connectors for my 2014 Entune Plus install and they fit both sides without trimming anything.

Best Kits BHA1761 Radio Wire Harness (male plugs)
Best Kits BHO1761 Radio Wire Harness (female plugs)

I figured the Metra connectors were the same, maybe not.

 

I kinda brain farted when I ran my wires, I only ran 2 wires back to the LOC (thinking 1-front and 1-rear). Now realizing I needed FR, FL, RR, and RL. If i just ran my LOC input off of the 2 front channels (FL, and FR) would I only be losing the fading option??

 

Yup. But that's how I did it- you can set fade by adjusting the amp's gain settings for the rear channel though. Fade for me is typically a set it and forget it thing.

I was concerned that the fronts would have been limited in frequency somehow, to match the speakers but by my ears they are not. I seem to have a full spectrum going from front speaker outs on the HU to my amp.

 

My shop told me they would have just set up a good set of component speakers in Front controlled by the processor and disregarded the back speakers if I wasn't running a Sub.

 

So if the line out converter is a Hiss box why even put the thing in?? Just go amp?? There has to be decent harnesses out there for going straight to an amplifier.

 

The LOC or processor is the converter- takes the amplified line input from the head unit converts to non-amplified RCA signal for the AMP input. You don't want to run an amplified signal straight into the amplified (even though the stock HU isn't putting out much power).

The noise/hiss is coming from the head unit. The LOC or processor will either clean up or in some cases accentuate the noise on the inputs to the amp depending on what you use.

 

I've been researching my audio upgrade for a while now on this site. This thread has been the most helpful so far. I was set to use my stock HU and a LOC. I was debating between the LCI6 and spending the big bucks on the JL Audio Clean Sweep. Now this talk of amp hiss has got me re-thinking the whole thing. Has anyone out there added a LOC and Amp to a stock HU without getting any hiss? Does a LOC cause AM radio noise?

 

I have hiss, using LOC and a miniDSP. It's pretty bad. I researched it pretty heavily too and would look at the Audison bitTEN if I had the coins. I'd say go the LOC route, don't even worry about the LCI6 and save up for the bitTEN.

I don't think it's AM, or ground loop, or power line noise. It's definitely coming from the head unit. It sounds like the hiss of a cassette tape (if you're old enough to know about that

 

Thanks for the info weendoggy

 

Thanks for sharing. Didnt realize this when i pulled my panel off on my 2015.

 

Subd

 

subd. im about to install a JL Audio JX1000/1D Car Stereo Mono Sub Amp.

I got told that i dont need an inline convertor to hook my rca cables into. how else can i do it (note that this amp has high level inputs.) Please post links of the parts ill need.

Where will i run the remote wire for the amp? the best place i can seem to find is the internal fuse box #4 slot with an add a circuit.

This amp will be pushing two idq10 v4 d2 subs.

thanks in advance for any help

 

subd

 

The tweeters are wired out of phase. It's an EQ trick if you want to emphasize certain frequencies, or in this case more likely to get the best sound out of the absolute worst speakers I've ever seen. You can try either way for aftermarket speakers, it won't harm the speaker at all. Use whichever sounds best.

 

Anyone have any input on the ********* Recurve TACOEzQ? I am about to install an amp and subwoofer this weekend. I was going to go the route of installing the line out converter, I dont really want to splice the wires so I started looking for a wiring harness that would plug into the stock H.U and give me the RCA lines. I see the Recurve and it looks like it would be an excellent product to use instead of the L.O.C......no splicing.

The thought of "is it worth the extra $$$" kicked in and I thought I would reach out to see if there is any feedback from someone who is currently using or has first hand experience.

Thanks.

 

I don't know about the recurve,most say it is equal to some of the AudioControl products, I tried the AudioControl LCi-2. The hookup was easy, but in the end I was not happy with the sound quality. Do what you wish, but I didn't believe it till I tried it. A new head unit is definitely worth the dough!!!

 

I have a question about this install because I am about to install a LC6i. Did you isolate power wires from speaker/input wires? Assuming the same wiring went into the Audison?

 

I finally installed my sound system this past weekend and went with the AudioControl LC7i. At first, I had some pretty bad hissing. What I did was to decrease the 3rd channel output level. Even though you don't connect a 3rd channel, the LOC processes the 3/4 speakers into the 5/6 for the subwoofer. I think I also might have reduced the Accubass threshold. I also lowered my amp's gain down to about 35%. This hissing isn't audible at freeway speeds, even with quiet music. It's only very slightly audible if you are stopped and are actively trying to listen for it. Basically, I'm allowing the LOC to only process the signal and letting my amp do what it's supposed to do. There's some more tweaking that I'd like to do, but for the most part, I'm pretty happy with it. I bought a Helix DSP, but probably won't use it.