Little Red Turbo Creeper

Return to stock, put the turbo on your older truck?

It really is a pain. My little high school Honda ran super clean with the sniff tests in Davis County but would fail because of a CEL

It was a safety issues not an emissions issue so idk why it passed safety but not emissions haha

 

yea they don't care what the light is for, just that if it is on its a fail. I don't think it is a turbo'd issue, being back to the stock components and staying out of boost it should be fine. Just need to figure out what is going on

 

shoulda been doing this back in winter when I had the time haha, but really thought putting the stock cats back on was going to bail me out...I was wrong. Oh well, it will sit in the garage for now and ill tinker on it till its figured out

 

It's hard to believe it's already been a year since the turbo install and nothing has gone catastrophically wrong so it must be time to step it up with some help from Haltech



I still have to piece together a few things before any actual wrenching occurs but we're heading in the right direction.

I'd like to get some injectors ordered soon but haven't figured out what size would be best suited for my needs.

Right now the MAF is providing an Intake Air Temperature reading that can be fed to the Haltech but I may remove the MAF housing All together and install a new IAT sensor.

I'll be adding the Haltech WB1 to take over control of the Wideband O2 sensor that's currently wasted on the Innovate PSB-1 guage.

I'm planning for new OEM Knock sensors as well since mine have traveled beyond the distance to the moon and might not have the cleanest signal anymore.

 

I’ve considered installing an IAT into one of the intake runners in the intake valley near the knock sensors.
Speaking of knock sensors, I wonder if replacing the stock sensors with Bosch style sensors would yield better results. Something to consider.

 

I'd imagine having the IAT that close to the valves would be a tad more accurate or true but if the sensor failed it's not quite as accessible compared to up closer to the throttle body, it may not do well in the constant heat of the valley in the long run much like the knock sensor harness


OEM Knock sensors aren't particularly cheap and if there's more to be had with an alternative sensor I'm not opposed to it by any means.

I'd love to hear more about the available options especially before I've committed to buying one or the other

Yota1 wants about $500 for the oem spec knock sensors and harness

 

I’ll just leave this here, should you decide on the Bosch units.

 

I'd recommend putting your IAT in your intake tubing as close to but not after the throttle body as possible. Supercharged guys I recommend it somewhere after the rotors but facing the outside of the engine to avoid heatsoak as much as possible, we tapped my buddys' SCs for a 1/8 NPT IAT sensor that was commonly available.

As far as the knock sensors go... I personally don't use them to tune but some do and if your local tuner prefers you have them then I wouldn't waste money on new stock ones (as the Haltech cannot parse their signal well) and would instead use bosch style ones with the studs @ChargedSHOTaco recommended.

 

Music to my ears
Bosch knock sensors are less than half the price, but not buying sensors at all is priceless.

 

That was quick.

 

Would you mind sending me a pic of the pinouts?

 

Yes, the pinout please, for future reference.

 

A little off topic but yesterday before filling up the gas tank I popped off one of the Evac lines under the hood and what do you know the gas tank filled up without me holding the pump handle halfway open the entire time.



Still a bit of a hassle but it's a hell of a lot faster and easier on my hands

 

I'm still waiting for a few things but I just had remove the glove box and some other things to see what's behind it and how much room I would have to work with.


Once that was opened up I thought, might as well check and see if the ECU plugs were going to come out easy so after disconnecting the battery I removing all 5 plugs without a hitch. We made it this far so I figured it would be worth my time to check and see if the plugs from the Boomslang harness were going to match the ECU and sure enough that was a snap (or rather 12 nice audible clicks as each plug went home).



Everything was going smoothly and I was thankful for that because it's currently in the mid 90's and humid as a thunderstorm prepares to wash away the heat and hopefully clear out some smoke from the local wild fires but I digress.

With the Haltech plugged in the next step I took was confirming it had power so the battery was reconnected and key turned On followed by a few healthy electrical humms and relay clicks as things came to life, the green light on the Haltech glowing magnificently.

Only reasonable thing to do after that was connect the Haltech to the computer and open NSP


It might not be a honda civic but I've finally got an in vehicle laptop

 

I removed the Boost pressure reference for the Innovate guage and replaced it with the hose for the Haltech MAP sensor. Luckily I had a long enough piece to make it through the firewall on the passenger side.

Shouldn't have any issues getting it through the rubber boot when I know that's where it'll stay.


Still waiting on the Haltech WB1 so I left the Wideband connected to the Innovate guage a little longer.

Its hot and humid out there again today and I bumped my seat heater on accident, was sweating pretty good before I realized It was on

 

The stock computer is back in place for now.

I started it up today and ran my hands around the turbo and down pipe, I can feel little rapid puffs of air but the turbo blanket and position is making it hard to see what specifically is leaking without feeling the sting of hot metal. Best case scenario the down pipe vband needs recentered on the turbo. Could also be the T4 flange or maybe even the waste gate. I'll let it cool, get the blankey off and try again.

 

Keep in mind that taking the blanket off most likely means buying a new one. They tend to fall apart when disturbed.

 

it held together decently, it's pretty big so it slips on and on/off fairly easy . I wonder how well their Silicone blankets hold up. their temperature rating is quite a bit lower


Pretty sure the oil return leaks where it connects to the turbo and has left behind some staining.


The T4 flange bolts had worked themselves a little loose so I'm glad I looked.

The turbo/downpipe V band also came loose and it shifted position a little creating a pretty good sized gap, it doesn't like to lineup (especially with the cat back still connected)


I'm not a fan of these (not so) flat flanges.

 

I forgot to mention I measured the exhaust pipe coming out the front of the catalytic converter and it's only a 2" pipe. So that's got to go