Locker Anytime Mod for Dummies 2005+

That's good.

As long as the correct colors are connected the the correct lugs this shouldn't be a problem. The crimp connectors make for a smaller package, but there's no need to buy them.

All of the wires need to be connected to their correct lugs on the relay. I can see you've neatly bundled the cut wires, so that's good.

I have had brand new relays that clicked just fine and still didn't make the proper connections when activated. I never sent those out to a customer. Most of the time I could get them to work. Take some rough paper, like a paper grocery bag, and tear off a small piece that will fit between the contacts inside. Rub it back and forth to clean them and remove any dirt or corrosion.

Where to find a relay in Boise? Back in the day it would have been Radio Shack. In my city there's a place that has filled the empty spot they left. Boise is big enough that someone has probably done the same. Maybe a post on the Boise subreddit can get you pointed in the right direction (But, try the paper trick first.)

 

Ok I omitted the block to be just like the rest of you. I tried to clean up the contacts in the relay like you suggested @jsi

 

Ok I used both paper and some sandpaper to make sure the contacts are clean. I put it back in and now when I hit the locker button it fries ign no. 2 fuse each and every time. I even tried swapping red/black and ground wires (#8 and #7 respectively) to their opposites and that blew the fuse too. I made sure that I'm using the correct blue wire too, since there are "three". Attached is an image I just took of where I'm at.

Im not an electrical engineer, but it seems like the vampire tap could go from violet into pin 2, and the out of pin 3 to the cut end of the violet that's still attached to the pigtail. Wouldn't that send the all-clear signal? Why does the violet wire go into the relay twice?
I'm sure my ground is good, I'm sure my soldering is good too, everything is wrapped up clean and tight. I followed the instructions...

I also found that post someone made for their own diagram. Does it matter that I'm grounding to the frame and not the wire that is the ground to the ECU (the white one?) Should I get in there instead of using the chassis ground?
Still stuck. It's too late now for me to go get another relay until after the fourth. I know this 12v system has enough juice to throw the contacts in the relay, even though it says 28v on the ice cube. Idk what else to try...

 

In the above image with the wiring diagram of the relay in black and white, I have a picture of the diagram for the relay that I have. It all matches imo? If not, then that might be why my wiring is bad. Can anyone tell a difference?

 

So, I'm sort of an electrical engineer, but to be honest it's been too long since I did this to remember what each wire does. Just know that if you follow the wiring directions to the letter it will work. The lugs on your relay are correctly numbered, also the 10 A 240 VAC/28 VDC refers to the amount of current the relay is capable of switching not the voltage required to activate the relay. (that's written on the coil) 10A at 28VDC is over kill for this application, but that's a good thing.

Can you provide a link to the post that has this picture? This one is too blurry to read.

 

This is what I found while scanning thru the forum @jsi

Should I just spend time checking to make sure nothing is shorting? I didn’t touch the locker switch except to verify the red/black wire goes there. Idk what else could be shorting. All my female spades I just installed are separate and not touching either.
Hopefully you can see in my picture I have all the wires hooked up nicely? I made sure to wrap all the cut ends on the pigtail so they wouldn’t short out, just like you said in your original post!

 

If I recall correctly Caribe was talking about making a printed circuit board to make the the relay install much simpler. The connections in the colored picture are correct. You can use them if that drawing makes more sense. The workmanship looks top notch. Everything has jumpers and shrink tubes. The challenge I have is it is difficult to follow the black jumper wire to the colored wire from the harness. Just make sure each wire goes where the directions say. Don't take any shortcuts. If the fuse is blowing it is not wired correctly

As a further trouble shooting question did you solder the diode into the relay? If it's put in the wrong way it will blow the fuse.

 

Yes I did solder the diode in myself. I got the diodes you suggested in your original post, and soldered one in the way you did in your tutorial video. I even took it out and wired the diode in the opposite way just to see if that was the problem, and the fuse blew more times after I did that. I took out the second one and replaced it - the grey stripe goes toward pin 8 on mine.

I'm starting to understand this relay and what it's doing. Pin 5 and six are common, which I would think are where the blue and green wires go. Idk why the pink and green/black wires are cut - those should stop the activation and deactivation process of the locker - they're limit switches if im not mistaken.
So now I just fail to see why I'm shorting it out and blowing fuses. If I wire it differently the relay works, and I could test the relay to make sure it does just to be safe. I'll do that now. I'm confident my connections are fine, I think it's a problem with the violet Y tap and the ground, because that's probably what's shorting the whole thing.
I'll follow the video you posted @jsi to test the relay, and see where I'm getting continuity. I understand that if the fuse is blowing, i've wired it wrong, but I just cant see where I've gone wrong in wiring it. Would more pictures help? x

 

Ok @jsi @TXpro4X4 I got it! Thanks for being available to answer questions. I ended up deleting the din rail and doing female plugs to the relay, but I was blowing fuses because the crimps were not protected or shielded. I wrapped them in heat shrink and now it works. I tucked everything away neatly and tested it, and now it works!

my mistakes. I wish everyone good luck doing this in the future.

 

Awesome!

 

I also want to note for those that come after me - and for those of you that have done this already:
I found it easier for me to just move the Diff lock switch rather than plumb in a safety. It's not my first choice, I think both ways are pretty clean, but as an experiment I decided to try it, and the cables for each switch are just long enough to reach a different slot. It takes a bit of finesse to make it work, but this reduces the likelihood of switching on the locker when at speed. Here's a photo of it if anyone is thinking of doing the same! Hope that helps. Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

Nice!

 

Happy Fourth of July everyone!