Locker option (2nd gen)

Hey, sorry for jacking the thread. my rear LSD is going out in my 2008 toyota tacoma. I called toyota and they said it was gonna be around 2300 without installation. I'm gonna pull it apart to see whats going on in there, once i get time. he also said it was 4.11 gear ratio and what I've been reading is that most people have 3.73 in theres, whose right? i guess ill find that out when i take it apart.
Anyways does anyone know where i can buy a whole diff assembled possibly with and arb like marlin crawler does but with the 8.4 diff?

 

There's really only two options when it comes to lockers... the "you don't really need it, save your money" option and the "you need it, don't cheap out" option.

If you fall into the latter, go ARB.

 

Sub

 

hey so I didn't see it in the OP, I have a 11 4.0 with a 6spd anyone know what gear ratio that has?

 

I already have a small ARB compressor onboard. Will be upgrading the rear end soon with either LSD or locker. I know ARB is a solid choice but I hate relying on air to engage my locker. An air leak, or a failed compressor will prevent you from locking up. Crappy.

Does anyone run an ARB locker without a tank on board?

 

I know i am very late to your comment, but i am considering buying a 2010 trd sport and outfitting it because i dont 4wd in my taco and want something not too expensive that has 4wd. But so is adding a front locker worth it? And does it already come with a rear locker?

 

TRD Sports do not come with the rear locker, only the TRD Offroads do. Front lockers are only necessary if you're doing really tough trails, big rock crawling and stuff like that. For most people looking to have some fun wheeling, a rear locker and 4wd is more than enough

 

I know, old post.... whatevs

You don't "need" a tank, just a compressor. I think most people end up doing a tank with their on-board air system though. It opens up more possibilities for air tools, airing up tires, etc...

As long as you do a good job routing the air line(s), and do a proper job installing the fittings, it's generally not a problem. ARB is legit, and they wouldn't have been selling the air lockers for, what, like 300 years, if it wasn't a reliable system.

The other option is an E-locker (wires are just as vulnerable to breakage as air lines) or the auto lockers/LSDs.

 

I personally am not a fan of the LSDs, simply because it isnt a true locker, that being said, I am a very large fan of the factory e-locker in the TRD-Offroad

 

I’m just throwing this out there for people on the market for a locker. ARB has had seal issues for the past year and a 1/2.

I went through 3 in a year. I ended out going with a Detroit and haven’t had an air leak since.


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/brand-new-arb-locker-leaking-air.565186/

 

Yes, but you have to remember to turn it on. I also prefer the 100% predictable traction from a locker, but they aren't for everyone.

 

I see a lot of posts that recommend re-gearing and adding lockers together at the same time. Is that because it's a pain to take the diff apart and re-gear and take the diff apart and add the locker? Or ... if I were to install an ARB locker in 2 months and 2 years later re-gear (when my tires are worn out) would I need a different locker for the new gears? Assume I"m going from stock (4.10?) to 4.88. THANKS!

 

People generally recommend doing them both at the same time because there is a lot of overlapping labor involved. If you do them separately, you'd basically be paying for the same labor twice, and it's expensive labor.

You shouldn't need a different locker when regearing, though if you decide to do them at different times.

 

Thanks -- that is what I thought. Now onto trying to psych myself into installing a locker myself and deal with the gearing later