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Loctite on lower ball joint connection?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by therexinator, Jan 15, 2013.

  1. Mar 12, 2025 at 5:06 AM
    #21
    Area51Runner

    Area51Runner Well-Known Member

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    No kidding, my bad for not even noticing and being sucked into a reply. Usually, I'm pretty good about replying to a thread someone has brought back from EONS past. Way to go Thoy!

    Oh and heads-up, you're citing only 1 torque spec. Please get your stuff straight if you're going to post about this. There is a 59 ft lb spec for certain LBJ bolts and a 37 ft lb spec for the
    P/N# 90119-10933 black bolt w/washer and YES, it completely makes a difference. Torque that black bolt past 37 ft lbs and I promise you it's going to shear while trying to do so or very shortly after.
     
  2. Mar 12, 2025 at 6:22 AM
    #22
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    I'm sorry but the idea that proper torque and thread-locker is required to keep a bolt or nut from backing out is ridiculous. Torque by itself is more than adequate. Tight is tight, it's not going to magically loosen up from vibrations or something. Putting loctite on everything screams of nervousness and inexperience. All you're doing is making it harder to take apart the next time

    Yes some manufacturers will use it on flexplate and flywheel bolts, but that's about it. What are these many other places where it's required? Do you wrench for a living and see cars coming in with loose bolts all the time?

    Do you use it on your lugnuts? Because by your logic, without loctite, your wheels would be loosening up every other week o_O
     
  3. Mar 12, 2025 at 8:27 AM
    #23
    se7enine

    se7enine MCMLXXIX

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    Lugnuts don't have the same design flaw that 1st gen LBJ have so that argument is useless. Fact is the bolts fail and they do back out. Now that might be 100% operator vs torque failure but you or I can't prove that.
     
    rish57 likes this.
  4. Mar 12, 2025 at 10:58 AM
    #24
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    I'm pretty sure it's the ball and socket portion of the joint that fails, not the threaded stud and nut.
     
  5. Mar 12, 2025 at 11:06 AM
    #25
    se7enine

    se7enine MCMLXXIX

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    Which is why it's dumb to argue over loctite vs non-loctite. Just buy OEM and torque to spec. If you want to put loctite on then go ahead. Loctite recommends torque to dry specs so I highly doubt loctite has any negative effects on the integrity of the bolts after application.
     
  6. Mar 12, 2025 at 11:22 AM
    #26
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Gnar doggy

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    I agree with going OEM and simply torquing to spec. I was only pushing back against the assertion that manufacturers use it everywhere.. because they don't

    I've been a full-time tech since like 2003 and all the 1st gens and 4runners I've seen with that ball-joint failure it was the ball and socket, not the threads or nut.

    Anywhos, sorry for arguing..
     
    MadNachos likes this.
  7. Mar 12, 2025 at 3:21 PM
    #27
    Parkvisitor

    Parkvisitor Do you know midnight?

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    stuff
    I used blue loctite on black bolts with washers torqued to 59 pounds :)
    Been 6 years. I did clean out the threads on the spindles which I think a lot of people don’t do.
     
  8. Mar 12, 2025 at 4:12 PM
    #28
    Area51Runner

    Area51Runner Well-Known Member

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    :eek:
     
    time623 likes this.

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