Long Travel BS Thread

My buddys got a small thing going on tonight too.

 

When the uniballs get loose you may feel some vibration. Im not exactly sure what camburg is doing for the lower uniball pivots. If I picture it right i would thing there would be a ton of play but I know of a couple of race trucks doing that as well. Unless its more of an anti wobble setup.

On the TC kit i dont know if they would work on the upper arm. My upper arm is on heims.

 

What do you mean by your upper arm is on heims??
Don't mean to sound retarded but what exactly is a heim?

 

http://www.thegmrstore.com/xmsech.html

You can see them on his upper arms
http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/attachments/dr-rides/119848d1301077610-img_3653-jpg

 

The camburg lowers are just massive uniballs with inserts that fit exactly to the alignment cams and the width matches the lca mounts. They have no play. I'll take a pic of them. Im not sure how there could be slop until they wear

For the uppers if you go to TC site and look at the long travel kit they have your uppers on heims or bushings. You get to choose and it doesnt change price. My uppers are bushings. I thought the heim uppers were more to help with adjustment. Who knows Im sure if you talk to both companies they have reasons as to why theirs is better.

And OMG @ video of the dyke jump at 104mph!!!

 

Yup

 

^^^ looking good. now it's time to start gusseting the hell out of all the weak points: spindles, alignment cams, UCA mounts...

 

So i started cleaning up the lt kit to check for any cracks or damage and i found this little crack. Should i worry about it, or just weld it and grind it down? Also should uniballs be hard to move or easy?

 

Looks like normal uniballs to me. Maybe cause theres 2 side by side it doesnt give any wobble movement?

what kit is that? Personally if you were to just weld on top I don't think you would get enough penetration to actually fix the issue. Don't know if this is the correct way to fix it since I'm not a fabricator or engineer but I would get a grinder and grind out the weld. It would make the slot about 1/8" wide or slightly less. It will give you a groove to get a deeper weld and hopefully it wont crack again.

 

I Just did retrieval for the Mint 400. I decided I need an LT kit so I'm faster and not dragging skid the whole time. Here's the problem, I'm 4wd and still need to be able to tow a TT. Any recommendations?

 

My bad its the engage LT kit

 

Go to homedepot/lowes and get some paint stripper or if you have a wire wheel for the grinder knock the paint off on as much of the arm. Kinda hard to tell on that if its actually a crack. But like I posted earlier. I would try grinding down about an 1/8-3/16 depending on the thickness of that plate. But you don't want to go down too far and destroy the rib in the arm. Then re-weld it.

 

^^ Ill get some paint stripper from work tomorrow. It is a crack because i can stick my fingernail and feel it.

 

Sounds good! Keep us posted.

 

TC or Camburg kit. They both have axles that work for 4wd set-ups.

 

I don't have that kind of mula right now.....I have 5100s on stock springs and tab. What can I do to make mine handle everything better, on a budget. Eibach springs? Aal?

 

A set of adjustable coilovers, some uniball upper control arms and a new leaf pack.

 

Nothing I faster than a dirt bike or quad.

 

Can't carry gear radio or retrieve on my quad.