Long Travel BS Thread

I have a modified stock drive shaft. It's a 2wd but has a slip yoke in the rear. Also has been machined to separate at the carrier. Tundra drive shafts are weird though

 

ugh i lost my tripod

wanted to go shoot the moon tonight, its soooo big, my 300mm would have been perfect for it tonight



maybe tomorrow night just about to lightroom edit some of the car shots, posting her for sale soon

 

So you need a custom one basically?

Tundra axle will just use my stock driveshaft.

 

I only have custom because its 2wd and the tundra drive shaft doesn't separate at the carrier like a Tacoma does. If you have a 4wd drive shaft on a Tacoma all you need need is a simple adapter at the u joint too the diff

 

Ahhhh I see okay.

And you still need an adapter even though it's the same rear diff?

 

No I need an adapter because I'm going from a Toyota drive shaft to a 9" diff

 

Oh sorry, i thought you meant for the tundra axle i was like WAAAAA??

but gotcha! so just an adaptor for a 9'' rear axle huh??..hmmm..

 

Oh no sorry it's just because I have a 9". I have a huge ass nodular 3rd member. For a tundra axle you will bolt right up.

 

So..

Tundra axle:

-Bolts up to stock dive shaft
-6'' wider, 3'' per side(give or take a bit)
-uses same diff so i can swap my regeared diff over no prob

BUT

for shocks outside frame:

-wheel spacers most likely
-or custom notched frame.

9'':

-lots of them out there
-can be wider the 6'' over all
-stronger(usually)
-could find one for outside frame shocks



One more question.

What about lug pattern for wheels?

 

Just tried taking a pic of it in the garage but my phone is being an asshole and you couldn't see shit but here it is

 

The advantage to going 9" is the options. I'm running 35 spline (you can't do that with a tundra axle) and I'm running stock lug pattern. Race parts cost race money though. Jumping up to 35 spline and nodular is $$$$$

 

fancey looking!

And yes the whole rear setup is pricey i know it won't happen for a long time. Few years im sure. Hell i've wanted front LT for like 2-3 and am only just starting to get that..haha

Do you just change out hubs for the stock lug pattern??

 

No not hubs (I'm not full floater) you pick axles with the lug pattern you want want. I'm running 35 spline currie axles with 6 on 5.5. This would be total over kill for you. Unless your linked or pulling serious travel or HP you don't need more than 31 spline.

I didn't know you weren't LT up front. Stick to a Toyota axle till you are going real fast ha

 

noted

someday..could end up linked..but not for a LONG time. Just be a SUA setup and some mobbing.

 

If I've learned one thing in my many years in this, it's plan ahead. I hate to see people do something that gets them halfway to to where they want to be in the end. It cost so much more in the long run that way. I've made that mistake and I regret it.

 

Totally agree. Would have built my truck very differently if i could have all my money back and the truck back to the way i bought it.

Lucky for me..i have lots and lots of time to plan the rear setup id like as i get a better idea what i want out of the truck.

 

I can't even remember how many builds deep I am ha. But I finally feel that I'm doing it right this time. But what I've learned in all the other trucks is priceless.

 

For me, 9 inch gears, bearings and a LSD cost the same as the 8.25" Toyota diff gears, bearings, and a TRD LSD, but a 9 inch will cost you money in axles. I have the TRD LSD in my race truck, my personal tundra, my little brothers tundra, and a couple other customers tundras. Most are on 35s and none have had failures. For most of you, the Toyota diff is plenty solid and cheaper overall. Building a 9" on a budget is a pain in the ass, none have the 6 lug pattern, most are too narrow, most are 28 spline, etc.

 

^^yea thats why i think ill just go Tundra for now anyways.

 

I might have part of it. I'll hit the garage today.