Long Travel BS Thread

two lines are from master cylinder. The single is the output to the brakes. You usually have a arched piece of metal that curves from it to the axle. Depending on how low or high the axle is it pushes the metal rod to open and close the valve more or less to allow more or less activation from the rear brakes.

You can get aftermarket ones and just manually set the proportioning. I believe Jason did this.

I am not sure if the two going into the valve are two inputs or one input and one return.

 

There is a good proportioning valve from summit I've used in the past. I'll try to find the link tomorrow

 

I have a plate I cut that you can attach to the 2 mounting points and it holds the arm up and you just cut off the excess....

Or take it out, cap one end, and connect the other end to the brake line.

Or take it out, trace the lines, pull one out and put a union in place of the "T" fitting.

I've done all 3 with success. LOL

 

someone need a project?
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/4052217680.html

 

It's about time!

 

For those of you in Escondido can you suggest a drivline shop? The truck is going to get the rear done starting today and I don't have a slip yoke...

Also anybody have a suggested replacement for the carrier bearing?

 

Haha for sure! In my defense it was not all my fault! But I did convince Tim to let me mail him $$ each month so the end bill won't hurt so much!
Did hit a little delay by moving then needed the truck for a few weeks to pick up lumber and materials for the house. So long story short it will be ready just in time for prime desert season!

 

Did some more plating on my econoline housing.
I'm happy with it and it's getting me back into do work mode but I'll prob just get a nice aftermarket fabricated one next time.

 

only shop I know of Chris close is

http://oceansidedriveline.com/

there is a thread on here where someone adapted a high speed mounted bearing from Mcmaster-Carr

Ill try to find it for ya

 

TTORA has the same thread:

 

Ill mount that bitch under the hood. Thanks for the pic. Now I just need to figure out what line is what.

 

For the longest time I just cut the rod going from the valve down to the axle so that it was about 3" long and put a zip tie around it holding it fully compressed. Never had an issue with that. Then when I linked my truck, I pulled it out, pulled the 2nd line out of the system as well and just run a single back directly to the brakes. The rear will lock up before the front but I like this everywhere, except on rainy wet road days. LOL, between the spool and the brakes, yeah, I just don't drive it if it's raining! I do like the rear locking up before the front on the dirt cause it allows me to initiate a drift into corners. I can kick the rear end out to slide into corners with it basically.

 

So on mine, that rod is just cut off, does that mean most if my brake bias is on the front?

 

Just zip tie it so the rod gets pushed in?

 

Lol I see. I'll have to try this later, cuz right now my truck doesn't not stop very well