Long Travel BS Thread

If you have the tools do a compression test (static and running) and a cylinder leak down test and if it's in spec you'll be GTG IMO.

 

Not a bad idea. I have a compression tester...should do mine when I change my spark plugs tomorrow.

Anybody know what a 4.0L IGR-FE cylinder pressure should read in a healthy motor with good piston rings? lol

 

My buddies early Tundra with 4x4, TC, linked and FULL bed. Tows his race car (7open truck) or his small toy hauler. 10+ years of off-road and Baja trips. My 4.0 still pulls it though.

 

I know this is a dumb question, but I'm polling my spindles and going with a stock spindle with my tc 3.5 kit today. Will the tie rod end bolt go up through the mounting point on the spindle? Or will it go down through like the aftermarket spindles I have now? 2nd gen btw, thanks guys.

 

its going to go up...it can only go up because it is tapered.

 

Thanks, just wanted to make sure

 

Minimum compression on a fully warmed up motor with all spark plugs removed and the throttle fully open is 145 PSI

There should be less than 15 psi difference between the cylinders.

Compression should be around 189 PSI

 

i would plate the bed with aluminum to get the desired storage/hauling capabilities. manual hubs only came stock on 4cyl 4wd trucks. only stick shift for 4wd or 5lug, no prerunners.

 

personally id want a taco with manual hubs instead of auto.

theres probably about 4 times that the manual hubs have made it so i can still make it home after fugging up something with the 4wd in the front.
auto dissconnect makes it so the axles are ALWAYS spinning, even in 2wd. manual hubs, the axels dont spin when they are un locked.
saves gas mileage too

 

I wouldn't mind manual hubs for the less wear and tear on boots, but other than a new boot mine have held up great for over two years and they are vatozone lifetime warranty axles....

 

yeah they are nice for that too.
sucks to need to get out to lock in the hubs though.


the only reason my axels have broke is because i broke my lower ball joint every time, which broke my axle.
i hate ball joints.
i cant wait till i can get a fabbed 4x spindle and uni upper and lower arms. some day......

edit: and for what its worth, if you have auto hubs you can make your own cv axles way easier, since you only need to change 1 cv joint instead of 2.
this is if you join the tundra axle and tacoma axle together. if your buying the axels from camburg or something, it wont make any difference.

 

Ya I was following what u were dealing with. I think the truck shop has there own kit or they just do I with others, I saw his wht dbl cab had manual hubs.

I don't plan on it anytime soon but wouldn't mind down the road.

 

My 99 V6, Stick, has manual hubs from the factory... Mind blown?

According to the rock crawlers the auto hub outer CV's are supposed to be a touch stronger than the manual hub outers...... For what its worth on my 99 v6 with manual hubs when I upgrade to a LT front end I will most likely just run auto hubs. More for convenience than anything. Dont have to get out to turn them on (and it wont be a DD then), and parts are wayyyy easier to find. Plus I can sell my manual hubs to help fund the rest of the project.

 

The tundra cv is a true cv and is stronger than the tacoma tripod dealio. What he saying is to leave the upper alone and put the bottom one to the manual taco hub.

 

^^^Yep. The shaft necks down at the hub on the manual hub version and that tends to be the weak spot. One of my friends went through CV's like crazy on his 1st gen with manual hubs and they almost always broke at the necked down shaft. I wonder if Silas has this same issue.

 

I'm running a S/C and a 2nd gen diff geared at 4.56, haven't driven it since the power gain or new diff though but I think it'll do just fine.

 

interesting!
i have never broken an outer cv, always break the inner cv. basically it pulled the shaft and the clip out of the joint making the balls fall everywhere.


dont you need to swap front diffs as well?
since the auto you need the actuator in the diff?

seriously, its real nice being to still get off the trail when something is jacked up. its worth it!

 

i actually meant to post that in the 805 bs thread, thanks for the links though?